Monday quick sniffs

Good morning everyone! Time to start a new week, I’m sending my best wishes for a happy time towards you! I didn’t feel like writing a full-time review today so I decided to replace it with quick sniffs, which features few mini-reviews of fragrances I recently tested. These will be some general thoughts, without digging deeper into any particular perfume. I hope you’ll enjoy it. Of course, as always, you’re welcome to complain and tell me you want a full size review of any of the following.

Coco Noir, latest perfume release from Chanel. Much anticipated, this fragrance is on everyone’s lips, so I just couldn’t stay indifferent. To my nose it smells like grapefruit and rose mixture, with sandalwood powder sprinkled on top. It has a slightly powdered quality. I don’t get patchouli, but I get some olibanum which somehow gives me a salty feeling and that’s weird. There’s also tonka bean, geranium, a hint of bergamot and light musk. Coco Noir isn’t a bad fragrance, but it’s also nothing special. There are many better fragrances to smell. One would expect more effords from Chanel perfumer, Jacques Polge. At least the longevity and sillage are doing well. Ah, and the one and only noir thing about Chanel Coco Noir is it’s bottle, which I find gorgeous. Deep black with golden details, simple.

Sienne d’Orange is one of the four fragrances in L’Esprit Cologne collection relased in 2012 by The Different Company. As much as I love citrus fragrances and as much as I love eating oranges and lemons (yes, I like eating lemons, a slice from time to time) this perfume is a big disappointment for me. It begins with an orange note which smells very artificial and plastic. Unpleasant. Few seconds later it gets even more funny! Carrot note shows up and now Sienne d’Orange smells like… (un)healthy, carrot juice. I like to drink orange & carrot juice but I don’t want to smell like it. List of the notes also include suede, cardamom and woodsy notes, but if you ask me, I would say they’re not there.

In 2009 Van Cleef & Arpels created a line of high end luxurious fragrances under the label of Collection Extraordinaire, exclusive to Van Cleef & Arpels boutiques and selected stores. Cologne Noire is one of the family. I had high expectations towards it because I love my bottle of Bois d’Iris from this line. Cologne Noir almost met my expectations. It’s made of bitter oranges and a lot of pepper. Minute after applying I had a feeling like I was sampling a washing powder, it had that chemical, detergent vibe, but it faded away quickly. Bergamot, neroli and mandarine orange make it a nice fragrance but it’s very light, it’s even hard to smell when I hold my wrist up to the nose. For that sillage it’s definitely not worth spending 130€ for 75 ml bottle. I would give it 3 points out of possible 5.

Ambre 114 was released by French niche perfume brand Histoires de Parfums in 2001. After discovering the entire line of which 1725 is my favourite I finally got the chance to try their Ambre 114. This fragrance is MAGNIFICENT! It has a power! At the beginning of development you smell a gorgeous concoction of amber, vanilla and sandalwood. It’s deep and dense. Benzoin, nutmeg and tonka bean make it a little smokier, dirtier, more daring. These notes create a great base for the elegant, almost unnoticed rose. Other notes inclue geranium, vetiver, patchouli, caraway and musk. Ambre 114 from Histoires de Parfums has a powerful sillage and it’s longevity is not from this world. How many fragrances that last 16 hours do you know? It turns from a beast into a calm sheep. From perfume “fury” to lovely coziness. Definitely worth trying. It does best in cold weather.

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26 thoughts on “Monday quick sniffs

  1. kelly4 says:

    Good Morning. I felt the same way about CoCo Noir. I loved the original CoCo EDP. I know you are a Prada fan. How do you feel about the differences between Infusion d’iris EDP and Infusion d’iris Absolute?

    • lucasai says:

      Good morning (or afternoon in my time zone) Yes, I’m a full time Pradaholic. Absolue of Infusion d’Iris to me is colder, less incensy and the iris is less powdery, more earthy and woody. But the longevity wasn’t outstanding as for an EDP Absolue, it was good, but should be better for this concentration.

  2. smellythoughts says:

    Sounds like a few disappointments there – I haven’t enjoyed a single fragrance by The Different Company so I wasn’t surprised by that one 😛
    I need to try the VC&A exclusives, especially the iris you mentioned 😀

    • lucasai says:

      Yes, a few are good from time to time. It was my first try from TDC so now I’m less interested in them for a while.

      VC&A Exclusives are good, I only tested Cologne Noire and I have Bois d’Iris, didn’t try the other few and the latest Precious Oud.

      You’re in the UK right? If you have a problem with finding them come back to me and I can make you a small sample.

      • smellythoughts says:

        They are available at Liberty’s. I have gave a passing sniff to Bois D’Iris and thought it was nice – need to go back and explore the line a little more 🙂 Thanks for the offer though!

        • lucasai says:

          Glad you have them there. I have no possibility to try on place, ordering samples or relying on friends is my only way to try them…

          • smellythoughts says:

            That sucks 😦 To be fair though – Liberty’s is a terrible environment to sample, I get looks constantly like “You can’t afford this…” :’)

            • lucasai says:

              Good people help me. If it wasn’t for them I wouldn’t know this much as I know.

              And I got a lovely surprise today. Local niche perfumery send ne a pile of samples, without telling me so I was like a kid at Christmas. I got samples of Rose Anonyme and Vetiver Fatal and a mass of Xerjoffs which were just introduced to Poland.

            • smellythoughts says:

              Wonderful! Have fun exploring them. The first two are Atelier’s right? I haven’t tried any of them.
              I have only had one experience with Xerjoff which was very disappointing, but I’ve read many great things about others in the line. Can’t wait to read your thoughts on them all.

            • lucasai says:

              Thanks. That’s correct. First two are Atelier Cologne, the newest from the line. I’ll review them (or at least one) in a few days.

              There are so many Xerjoffs that definitely something will appear here.

  3. Lindaloo says:

    Aha, another lemon-eater! I’ve had that habit since childhood.
    Congrats on the niche perfumery windfall — your blog is getting growing attention. Looking forward to the Atelier reviews — I do like their Vanilla Insensee. (And more in my price range than Xerjoffs, but glad you’ll get to enjoy those.)

    • lucasai says:

      I’m happy I can try Xerjoffs, but I won’t be buying any of them soon. But I enjoy those Ateliers, will review them soon. I think I’ll go for a bottle of Rose Anonyme

  4. Natalie says:

    The Sienne d’Orange certainly doesn’t sound good. Your description has put a clear (and undesirable) scent in my nose. I think I’ll pass!

  5. hajusuuri says:

    I love these mini-reviews, Lucas! I got another sample of Coco Noir and will try it on me this weekend. Methinks I will be contrarian and get a FB, primarily for the bottle but I have to say Coco Noir on paper was not bad at all! I have to try Ambre 114 and VC&A Bois d’Iris.

    Regarding Prada Infusion d’Iris Absolue, I agree it doesn’t last too long but then since I have the 100mL, I wouldn’t run out any time soon :-).

    • lucasai says:

      I would say go for it! If I had a chance I would go for 10 or 15ml if they did this size. I’m stocking money for Iskander but seems like I’ll go for Rose Anonyme in the meantime. It’s gorgeous

  6. Undina says:

    Answering your question: I do know a number of perfumes that stay for that long. And as I recently discovered for myself, it’s not necessarily a positive thing: I do prefer to have an option of wearing (or at least testing) different perfumes during the day and at night 🙂

    I went to a store and spent a couple of minutes with Chanel Noir bottle. I’m really happy that in real life it looks (just slightly – but that’s enough) less appealing than on pictures. I’m not tempted any longer – yey!

  7. hajusuuri says:

    I got a big whiff of TDC Sienne d’Orange and agree with your assessment that it is yucky. To me, it smelled like orange-flavored cough syrup.

  8. Amy (PerfumedLady) says:

    I’m with you on the first two, Lucas. Coco Noir was very disappointing to me. I got neither patchouli nor olibanum, it was overwhelmingly white musk. Very sweet and screechy. There is however, a great incense note there that I’d love to see Chanel work with again. But leave the laundry musk out of it! Sienne d’Orange- well why even bother when there are so many truly fantastic citruses out there?

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