Monday Quick Sniffs, Part 2

Time is running so fast when my nose is busy trying new perfume. I love making new discoveries and still, even if I don’t like everything I sample, every vial is a valuable experience and a good lesson. I shall start this brand new week with fresh piece of my Monday Quick Sniffs, which are quickly becoming my favourite writes. This episode features three fragrances which present a nice balance between likes and dislikes.

Released in 2007 by L’Artisan Parfumeur in Harvest Fragrances series, Iris Pallida is a stunning & beautiful perfume. You know I’m an iris perfume lover and I can say that Iris Pallida doesn’t disappoint. Friend who gifted me with a sample of it said it’s much better than Serge Lutens Iris Silver Mist and she was telling the truth. I also agree with her opinion that it’s happier than Serge Lutens iris. I would also add that it’s a little reserved or serious. This perfume hides all possible faces of iris. There is iris in a woody dress which is really pretty. Iris Pallida also has more powdery, rooty, and floral aspects. These stages go from one to another in a very smooth way – you just can’t say that powdery ends here and rooty starts there. Iris Pallida is sensual and it embraces in a very special way. Do I need it? I’m starting to think that I do! [edit note] It’s discontinued…

After Midnight is a second fragrance from The Different Company L’Esprit Colognes Collection (remember Sienne d’Orange?) In contrast to Sienne d’Orange this fragrance is much better but still nothing very special or worth much attention in my opinion. The beginning is a mix of angelica, musk and iris of which the strongest is… galbanum and bergamot? Yes, the opening is completely destroyed! It would be good if it was angelica at first, then iris and musk. At least I would be able to smell separate ingredients but no, they appear together and are overwhelmed by bergamot and galbanum. It seems like this perfume was done in a rush and it smells like it is not completely finished. Too bad. After 30 minutes I could smell more musky iris. Proportions and the notes order are twisted to me. It’s a waste because After Midnight (2012) could’ve been a really good scent. In the form it is now it’s more meh than nice.

Zeta, a perfume created by Andy Tauer, owner of Tauer Perfumes in 2011 is an ode to linden blossom. This fragrance starts with harsh, floral note of linden (lime) blossom, smoothed by orange flower. The opening is almost acidic because bergamot and orange quickly appear. Sandalwood and ylang-ylang add woody, creamy touch to Zeta. Orange which appears after some time makes this fragrance sweeter and orris root used in Zeta’s base makes it slightly powdery. This Andy Tauer perfume is much different from his other perfume pieces. Zeta is light, transparent. People who had more experience than me in wearing it shared that Zeta was their often choice in hot mid-summer days. It lingers for a long time and becomes quiet after two or three hours so it’s inoffensive and smells fabulous! And it has a pretty green bottle. Quality of Zeta’s ingredients is very good, I think it’s worth it’s (quite high) price.

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26 thoughts on “Monday Quick Sniffs, Part 2

  1. RobWales says:

    Many thanks, Lucas. These are really interesting and useful comments. I must try the Iris Pallida.

  2. RobWales says:

    What a disaster! I just tried the L’Artisan shop in London and they tell me that Iris Pallida is discontinued and won’t be coming back. So I’ll have to stay with the Serge Lutens.

  3. jillie says:

    The Tauer sounds rather good – I love linden blossom tea, and I remember the heavenly smell in spring when I used to walk down an avenue of lime trees near where I used to live. Must try this, so thank you for writing about it!

  4. Sylvia says:

    Great reviews, Lucas! Iris Pallida is so beautiful, it’s really sad that they’ve discontinued it. I agree with you on the After Midnight, it’s not bad but it could have been so much more. Zeta is really nice, I always love a good linden. Thanks for the reviews!

    • lucasai says:

      I also regret that Iris Pallida is discontinued. I was just beginning to fall for it and now I have to stop because I won’t be able o get a bottle or a nice decant.
      I’m happy that you agree with me on TDC and Tauer.

  5. Amy (PerfumedLady) says:

    I’m with you on all three! Zeta is not for me but did impress me. Agree AM is nothing special. But what a shame about Iris Pallida, right? I got mine from the same friend as you. Was able to try 2007 and 2011, both are just gorgeous. I was afraid you’d love it, Lucas!

    • lucasai says:

      I really like it. Does it remind you Prada Infusion d’Iris Absolue? I had a thought that Iris Pallida smells close to the Prada. How about you?
      Shame it’s discontinued. I hope that I’ll be able to live without it!

  6. smellythoughts says:

    I’ve also heard great things Iris Pallida.
    I almost predicted the result of The Different Company scent – haven’t had any luck with a single of their fragrances. And you’ve made me more excited to finally try Zeta (should have a sample arriving soon) šŸ™‚

    • lucasai says:

      Isn’t that a shame that Iris Pallida is discontinued. I’ll never have my bottle! I tried only these two from TDC and both are more or less meh, but still MEH.
      Glad that you’ll have a chance to try Zeta soon. You shall like it!

  7. Amy (PerfumedLady) says:

    Yes, it does have similarities to the Prada irises in general, I think. To me, Iris Pallida is a similar idea done with upscale materials. Both houses’ iris scents have that elegant air about them. The main difference I would say is violet- you already know I get a pretty pronounced violet note with Absolue. IP is really orris, woods and musk on me and nothing else. Sounds so simple but it’s a more complex feeling scent when worn, it really creates a mood.

    • lucasai says:

      I like both and don’t get the violet vibe you mention. Infusion d’Iris Absolue is good and while Iris Pallida is discontinued maybe Prada can replace it, partially.

  8. poodle says:

    I’ve tried a few Tauer scents and didn’t like them at first but tried them again and I love them now. Weird how that happens. I have yet to try Zeta but it’s on my list. It sounds really nice. I like linden blossom and orange flower.

  9. Natalie says:

    I have to kid you a little bit about Iris Pallida being happier than Iris Silver Mist – because really, what ISN’T happier than ISM? šŸ™‚ But seriously, thanks for the mini reviews. These are always nice!

  10. hajusuuri says:

    I love these mini-reviews, Lucas! It’s too bad about Iris Pallida being discontinued as I probably would have lemminged it. As to the TDC’s, I am so ready to dismiss the entire line altogether; considering the price of an FB, meh comments make them worse than bad. Zeta is definitely FB-worthy although I can definitely wait a while to get it…I actually have 2 of the sample spray and one spritz goes a long way.

    • lucasai says:

      I’m sure you’d like Iris Pallida as I did and it’s really a shame that it’s no longer around here. It’s been a second TDC I tried and it’s a second meh. Either the entire TDC line is so bad or it’s only that L’Esprit Cologne Collection that disappoints. I need to sample something outside of that collection to see.
      I can live without Zeta too, it’s gorgeous but expensive. Yes, you don’t need much of it to smell good and for a long time.

  11. kelly says:

    Hi Lucas, I love your Monday Quicks Sniffs to. I will be looking forward to more mini reviews. Great Job!

  12. RobWales says:

    I entirely support Kelly’s view. The number of comments generated by this mini-review indicates the success of the formula. Well done indeed!

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