No mandarine in Seville? L’Artisan Parfumeur Mandarine & Seville a l’Aube

Wednesday brought rainy and windy weather today and it’s 18*C outside, hard to compare with 28*C we had here yesterday. Looks like autumn decided to make it’s first steps into the region. But in calendar it’s still summer so I decided to write about two summery scents I tried yesterday. I didn’t have much luck with finding love among L’Artisan Parfumeur fragrances but I respect the house. Before samples I’m going to write about in a minute arrived I decided to review them together. I was expecting they’ll be much alike, having a lot in common. Damn how ignorant and wrong I was.

Mandarine is a limited edition eau de toilette created by perfumer Olivia Giacobetti. L’Artisan Parfumeur website says this fragrance is a blast of freshness & an uplifting burst of happiness [1] which takes you to the place where the earth and sunshine of the Mediterranean nourish this concentrated dose of good humour [2]. To me Mandarine is a rather linear composition. Right from the start it is heavy on mandarine orange (3 different kinds of mandarine are infused here: green, red and yellow). At this point Mandarine is a little green and leafy but this impression doesn’t last long. Few minutes later this effect subsides and perfume becomes moderately sweet – it smells like ripe fruit pulp. I also get a hint of ginger, spicing the structure of L’Artisan Parfumeur Mandarine. Frangipani used for this scent adds a twist of floral and creamy aromas. This creamy sensation disturbs me, I don’t really like it here. When I spent some more time with Mandarine I could sense nice smelling molecules of cedar, hidden under juicy fruit pulp.

Seville a l’Aube is probably the first perfume born from collaboration between perfumer Bernard Duchaufour and perfume blogger and writer Denyse Beaulieu (Grain de Musc). First impression of Seville a l’Aube is created by wonderfully smelling orange blossoms. Unfortunately flowers quickly lose their power revealing waxy smell of honey. Then it gains density and becomes balmy – this L’Artisan Parfumeur contains a lot of benzoin molecules. Not much time later an incensy quality provided by olibanum resin appears. To my nose it doesn’t smell like a church incense but it’s rather mind-opening, with a slightly salty undertones. There’s also something crisp in this Seville a l’Aube fragrance (petit grain). Also warm touch of tobacco is noticeable, but no lavender from the notes list and even if there is some olive flower I have no idea how such a flower smells like. This fragrance is also a limited edition.

These two L’Artisan Parfumeur fragrances are available in 100 ml bottles only and both are concentrated at level of eau de toilette. As I mentioned earlier I judged them before I tried each one and put them into the same bag of summer citrus scents and I made a mistake doing so. Didn’t hear much around Mandarine in our perfume world but Seville a l’Aube earned wide and loving audience. I won’t be joining them! Sorry! We didn’t click with Seville and I felt weird wearing this scent for reviewing purposes. I think L’Artisan Parfumeur is just not a brand for me (2 exceptions)… I’ll let it be this way, at least for now.


18 thoughts on “No mandarine in Seville? L’Artisan Parfumeur Mandarine & Seville a l’Aube

  1. smellythoughts says:

    I don’t click with Seville A L’Aube either – I went to the press release where we smelt the raw lavender used – it’s Seville Lavender and is hugely resinous and intense, it’s definitely there very prominently to my nose in the opening, it pretty much dominates over the orange blossom for a few moments. It’s the “balmy” quality you described that I didn’t enjoy, it reminded me of myrrh but less sweet – I think it’s the mix of frankincense and beeswax – it fell very flat on my skin very quickly 😦

    • lucasai says:

      That’s funny how different smells we’ve got. You got a lot of lavender while I almost didn’t get it at all (and I like lavender) That balmy aroma also disturbed me and now that you speak of it, I thing that it really smelled of myrrh (DON’T LIKE)

      • smellythoughts says:

        Well as I said the lavender is a lavender that’s not normally used in perfumery – it doesn’t smell like the generic lavender we’re used to – if I hadn’t smelt the raw material I wouldn’t be able to detect it (like most perfume notes). But it’s there in the opening and you’re smelling it 🙂
        It’s is myrrh-y hey haha. It dries down all too quickly, and I also didn’t like the way that anything sexy that comes off an orange blossom was flattened and made masculine by the lavender and beeswax – no indoles, nothing narcotic or romantic, ahh well 🙂

        • lucasai says:

          Freddie, maybe it was a lavandin? A synthetic molecule which “mimics lavender in bad way”. I don’t really get it but I believe you 🙂
          No need to use more words – we just DON’T like it! That’s all! Taste is taste. Just can’t understand what others see in it? Even Coco Noir smells better to me than Seville.

          • smellythoughts says:

            Noooo its “Seville Lavender” haha, it comes from Seville – lets just call it special invisible lavender :’) But it’s pretty much what you smell in the top.
            Yep! Haha.
            I haven’t smelt Coco Noir – don’t intend to either haha.

            • lucasai says:

              Ah, I didn’t get it at the beginning. Let it be Seville Lavender.
              I think I’m not going to try this fragrance again, even after some time. I don’t see myself wearing it again.

              Why? At least sample it once to see how it smells.

  2. poodle says:

    I haven’t tried Mandarine but have a sample of Seville. I wanted to see what all the fuss was too. I get a greenish lavender in the first 30 seconds, literally, then it goes straight to the flowers. It just stays floral on me for the rest of the time gradually fading. I can’t detect honey or incense at any point. It’s pretty but I’m not sure if I’d want a bottle of it. There is something about it I enjoy but it’s hard to explain. It just smells nice but it’s so linear on me that I could see getting bored with it if I wore it a lot. Perhaps a decant will be enough to satisfy that orange blossom craving now and then. I am going to test it again in the cooler weather to see if it changes at all for me.

    • lucasai says:

      So you also get lavender, like Freddie! I didn’t get it at all. On me it’s balmy, salty and creamy and I don’t like it. I won’t get influenced by crowd in liking it, it’s not my style at all!
      Why do limited edition come in 100ml bottles, who need this much of limited thing?
      In my opinion there are many much better orange blossoms. I got to forget about Seville. I still feel weird, even after washing it off

  3. jillie says:

    What are your two exceptions, Lucas? I’d love to know.

    I have been a L’Artisan customer for more years than I care to say, but there are only a few perfumes in the range that I have actually loved. I was fond of Vanillia (which of course was discontinued): this was a not-too-sweet vanilla, with incense. Mure et Musc Extreme (not the parfum or the plain Mure et Musc) is a blackberry/white musc combo, and it is long-lasting but not heavy, and still being made. Ananas Fizz was a great sparkling pineapple with a soft sandalwood undertone – lovely and, naturally, now gone. Finally, my favourite white flower fragrance and – you guessed it! – discontinued: La Haie Fleurie. This smells of real jasmine and honeysuckle, is neither light nor heavy and again lasts well.

    Their candles and room sprays are very good quality, and I like best the Traversee au Bosphore candle – I haven’t yet tried the perfume, but the scent of the candle is strange at first, but then addictive!

  4. hajusuuri says:

    I love Seville a l’Aube and can’t wait for my pre-order to arrive. Since I know I won’t be able to finish up a whole 100mL bottle, I will be offering some decants in the NST swap kicking off this weekend!

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