After a month-long hiatus please give a warm welcome to returning Monday Quick Sniffs and its first session in 2013. I’ve got lots of new and older perfume to write about. Hope you are excited.
Australian designer Naomi Goodsir debuted as a perfume creator in 2012 when she introduced two perfume made for her fashion brand by Julien Rasquinet at Pitti 10 Fragranze in Florence. Fragrance names are Cuir Velours and Bois d’Ascese. Cuir Velours will be an object of talking here. It represents an interesting attitude on how to create a leathery scent without using smelly molecules of leather. Cuir Velours is rather sweet in the opening but this sensation quickly subsides leaving you with a smell of soft, kind of plushy suede paired with drop of rum. Later on when immortelle becomes a leader note the scent is quite dusty, dusky, spicy and extremely dry. It brings a feeling of a sandy desert. After a longer period of time I noticed incense and some tobacco along with a lingering smell of immortelle. It’s a well made scent with good longevity and decent sillage but it’s not really my kind of thing.
Grossmith is one of the eldest English perfume houses. Established in 1835 it went down many years ago but Simon & Amanda Brooke revived the brand reintroducing perfume formulas from the past and creating new, Black Label series. Saffron Rose is one of four fragrances in the line. Before sampling this perfume I was expecting to smell something harmonious, full of grace and charm. What I smelled was a weird rose that actually didn’t smell of a flower. A lot of woody tones play in the opening. The sensation is then followed by warm and spicy notes of amber and saffron and to me they smell dirty, dusted, like a thing forgotten long time ago. Other notes include sandalwood, cinnamon, tobacco, myrrh and castoreum. For me this perfume is a scrubber and its smell reminds me of an old abandoned house. It’s a decadent smell crafted in an old style way. For me it was a let down as the description made me feel like I would love the scent while it’s vice versa.
French niche perfume house Olfactive Studio appeared in the market in 2011 with three fragrance compositions. In 2012 fourth fragrance named Lumiere Blanche joined the line. Concept of the brand is to create fragrances paired with a photo that is meant to evoke general character of each scent. Photo for Lumiere Blanche looks like this. In the opening it smells milky and sensual with almonds, iris was adding some slight powderness and after few minutes it began to smell more spicy, having coriander and star anise as the notes. In the drydown it has smooth woody character created by cashmere wood and sandalwood. Cinnamon can be noticed too. Musk and tonka bean recreate the milky feeling. It’s quite pretty, but I think it could have better sillage on my skin, longevity is ok. Maybe I’m not tempted to buy a bottle but I completely understand why Victoria of Bois de Jasmin likes it so much. It’s rather easy to wear.