Monday Quick Sniffs, Part 8

After a month-long hiatus please give a warm welcome to returning Monday Quick Sniffs and its first session in 2013. I’ve got lots of new and older perfume to write about. Hope you are excited.

Australian designer Naomi Goodsir debuted as a perfume creator in 2012 when she introduced two perfume made for her fashion brand by Julien Rasquinet at Pitti 10 Fragranze in Florence. Fragrance names are Cuir Velours and Bois d’Ascese. Cuir Velours will be an object of talking here. It represents an interesting attitude on how to create a leathery scent without using smelly molecules of leather. Cuir Velours is rather sweet in the opening but this sensation quickly subsides leaving you with a smell of soft, kind of plushy suede paired with drop of rum. Later on when immortelle becomes a leader note the scent is quite dusty, dusky, spicy and extremely dry. It brings a feeling of a sandy desert. After a longer period of time I noticed incense and some tobacco along with a lingering smell of immortelle. It’s a well made scent with good longevity and decent sillage but it’s not really my kind of thing.

Grossmith is one of the eldest English perfume houses. Established in 1835 it went down many years ago but Simon & Amanda Brooke revived the brand reintroducing perfume formulas from the past and creating new, Black Label series. Saffron Rose is one of four fragrances in the line. Before sampling this perfume I was expecting to smell something harmonious, full of grace and charm. What I smelled was a weird rose that actually didn’t smell of a flower. A lot of woody tones play in the opening. The sensation is then followed by warm and spicy notes of amber and saffron and to me they smell dirty, dusted, like a thing forgotten long time ago. Other notes include sandalwood, cinnamon, tobacco, myrrh and castoreum. For me this perfume is a scrubber and its smell reminds me of an old abandoned house. It’s a decadent smell crafted in an old style way. For me it was a let down as the description made me feel like I would love the scent while it’s vice versa.

French niche perfume house Olfactive Studio appeared in the market in 2011 with three fragrance compositions. In 2012 fourth fragrance named Lumiere Blanche joined the line. Concept of the brand is to create fragrances paired with a photo that is meant to evoke general character of each scent. Photo for Lumiere Blanche looks like this. In the opening it smells milky and sensual with almonds, iris was adding some slight powderness and after few minutes it began to smell more spicy, having coriander and star anise as the notes. In the drydown it has smooth woody character created by cashmere wood and sandalwood. Cinnamon can be noticed too. Musk and tonka bean recreate the milky feeling. It’s quite pretty, but I think it could have better sillage on my skin, longevity is ok. Maybe I’m not tempted to buy a bottle but I completely understand why Victoria of Bois de Jasmin likes it so much. It’s rather easy to wear.

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10 thoughts on “Monday Quick Sniffs, Part 8

  1. Tatiana says:

    I have a small decant of Lumiere Blanche and think it’s beautiful. Unfortunately, it does not last very long at all on my skin. I need to try different ways of applying it to see if I can get it to last longer.
    Wishing you a fantastic 2013 and a very successful remainder of your school year.

    • lucasai says:

      I’m just staying with a sample of it and I agree that it fleets away quickly. Less than 3 hours and it’s gone. Maybe dabbing will make it last longer?

      Thank you Tatiana, all the best in 2013 for you too.

  2. hajusuuri says:

    Woot! Monday Quick Sniffs is back! Let’s start from the bottom, shall we? There was probably a very good reason why Grossmith Saffron Rose disappeared commercially – it should be left buried, judging by your scrubber reaction. Both Naomi Goodsir Cuir Velours and Olfactive Studio Lumiere Blanche sound try-worthy. Coincidenally, I already have the Olfactive Studio trio in my Surrender to Chance Wish List, to be ordered the next time there is a big discount (i.e. for me in my newly-fiscally disciplined and conservative self, anything more than 12% off decants). I just added Cuir Velours as well since I am on a leather kick…may include that in my Wish List the next time there is a swap somewhere 🙂

    • lucasai says:

      Yay, it’s back! Grossmith’s Saffron Rose is definitely a weird perfume. Let me explain this one thing. Saffron Rose is from the new fragrance line of Grossmit. What do you mean saying it disappeared commercially? I’m never going back to thgat sample.
      The other two are definitely worth a try. Hope you’ll like at least one of them. And including it into your swap list is a great idea.

  3. Undina says:

    I haven’t tried any of the perfumes from this installment but it was interesting to read your take since I don’t think testing them is on my “to do” l ist.

    • lucasai says:

      Thanks Undina. So you don’t find any of the following three appealing to you?

      • Undina says:

        These brands do not appeal to me in general (nothing negative – just nothing positive as well). So with so many perfumes to try I do not plan to actively seek these. If I come across them at some point I might try them.

        • lucasai says:

          I totally understand that Undina. I happened to be gifted with samples of entire Grossmith line so I had to try them, but nothing really special for me in there. Olfactive Studio doesn’t suit me much, Naomi Goodsir is OK, but there are better things.

          What are you looking for in terms of sampling perfume?

          • Undina says:

            Usually I concentrate on the perfume houses I know and like. Then – perfumers I know and like (if they don’t coincide with houses). Then – new brands that catch my attention somehow. Then – everything else.

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