Let’s set sail, Atelier Cologne Mistral Patchouli

On 8th December 2012 I posted about Atelier Cologne launching new cologne absolue named Mistral Patchouli. Before its official launch which will happen later this month, Mistral Patchouli appeared in few places like Atelier Cologne boutiques, LuckyScent in limited distribution. Kind reader was so generous to obtain a sample for me and send it over the ocean to Poland. Thank you!

Atelier Cologne Mistral Patchouli begins with a watery manner. Give it a few more seconds – the fragrance reveals at the moment when alcohol starts evaporating from skin. First thing my nose noticed was a citrus accord of cologne. It is indeed very beautiful and invigorating. Smells slightly acidic having essence of grapefruit infused into perfumers alcohol. This citrus vibe makes me think more of a rind than fruit on the whole. My nose suggests there’s also some yuzu in it. Not far from the beginning the cologne goes to the background making place for a whole lot of interesting and different ingredients. Star anise comes in second, introducing gorgeous, very natural aroma which adds tiny bit of spicy feeling to the scent. Is that another aroma a black pepper? Yes, it might be. Mistral Patchouli – so far so good!

Minutes later this new Atelier Cologne takes a turn into slightly powdery field of perfumery when iris enters the scene. The powdery sensation is mostly subdued but it’s noticeable. After this phase the main ingredient appears. Patchouli! But not one you know from other scents, this is a new, different patchouli. There’s a marine effect to it. Pretty unusual, just like Ross Barry announced.

But what does marine mean for Atelier Cologne Mistral Patchouli? It doesn’t have any ozonic notes which is a fantastic thing already. It’s not leafy, earthy and dirty patchouli but it’s fresh thanks to fractionated distillation process. Right next to it I could smell the aroma created from fresh spices and crispy, green geranium. I closed my eyes trying to picture this scent in my imagination. What I imagined was a sea coast and a wind ruffling the waves. To my nose there was also a light salty sensation that evokes the sea breeze even more.

Just as they could not stop the winds from blowing, nor could they stay apart any longer. They left everything behind, but they were together, fearless and free. They laughed in the sea salt air and shared a final moment on land before setting sail under the luminous blue sky…

Jerome Epinette who is a nose behind this fragrance made a scent that pairs perfectly with its background story quoted above. In the drydown I had a feeling that I smell grassy, dry and slightly woody vetiver along with soft and fresh spiciness. Surprisingly cologne element from the opening can be still noticed! Mistral Patchouli remained in this stage for the rest of the day. It’s not very strong but it lingers for many hours keeping me interested for the entire time. I liked to smell my arm with it.

Mistral Patchouli by Atelier Cologne is a cologne absolue with 18% fragrance concentration which makes it EdP. In my opinion it is really well made and it’s interesting, unique on the field of patchouli perfume. Actually it’s the first perfume with patchouli in its name that I like a lot. The scent really is adventurous and free. It’s character makes me think it will be best to wear it in spring and summer.

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30 thoughts on “Let’s set sail, Atelier Cologne Mistral Patchouli

  1. Interesting… I don’t typically think “marine” and “patchouli”. I need to test this, but I’m generally a fan of the marine scents.

    • lucasai says:

      That’s what makes Mistral Patchouli different – this combination of patchouli and marine. I think patchouli lovers will be disappointed by this Atelier Cologne since that fractionated distillation process brings clean and light patchouli, not a dirty beast.

  2. jilliecat says:

    This sounds good, Lucas. Like Scented Hound, I normally can’t tolerate marine notes, but this seems worth testing. I would rather like to get it for my husband to replace his beloved Eau Sauvage – he is so disappointed with the current reformulation. Do you think he would like it?

    • lucasai says:

      It’s marine in a good way I would say. It doesn’t smell ozonic or oceanic, rather crisp and refreshing like ocean breeze.
      I know Jillie, current Eau Sauvage is meh, IFRA regulations castrated it.
      I think your husband my like Mistral Patchouli as a replacement.

      • jilliecat says:

        Yeah, you hit the nail on the head there about what they have done to Eau Sauvage. Sigh.

        • lucasai says:

          Are you going to get your husband a sample of Mistral Patchouli to see if he likes it.

          Atelier Cologne did an amazing thing – they added a size of 100ml to 30 and 200ml which were available earier.

  3. jilliecat says:

    Thanks for the info. It’s his birthday next month, so I think I might well get him a sample to give him on the day and say “If you like this I will get you a big bottle”!

  4. Kafkaesque says:

    It sounds like an interesting combination of notes. I’m with Mr. Hound on the juxtaposition of “marine” and “patchouli.” And geranium with yuzu, along with all that…. It’s quite a mix. Is there calone in this, Lucas? If so, then I’m afraid it is definitely not for me.

    • lucasai says:

      Yes – interesting and different. It’s not a typical patchouli, it will be a let down for dirty patchouli lovers.
      I think there’s no calone in Mistral Patchouli, it’s not in the notes.. Btw, what’s calone?

      • Kafkaesque says:

        Calone is a synthetic note that is usually or frequently used to create an aquatic or marine smell in perfumes. It’s sort of melon-and-water. It’s in a ton of famous blue or water scents. And I really can’t stand it. Give me a second and I’ll put up a link for you.

        • lucasai says:

          Now I know.
          No Kafka, it’s not there. MP doesn’t smell of water or melon.
          MP might be desribed as marine but it’s not marine in this sense. Its marine in the meaning of bringing the association of adventure, open space etc.

      • Kafkaesque says:

        Here is Fragrantica’s entry on it: http://www.fragrantica.com/notes/Calone-423.html And here is Wikipedia’s which has a fuller list of some of the many perfumes with it: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Calone Given how you’ve described Mistral Patchouli, I would be surprised if there *wasn’t* calone in it!

      • Kafkaesque says:

        I pulled up the links for you but 2 links probably hit the spam filter. LOL. I looked it up and the reviewer on Ca Fleure Bon was equally shocked there was no calone in it. (I remember now reading that review for Mistral Patchouli when it first came up on CFB.) Apparently, the star anise does the trick instead. Very clever. Well, if there is no calone, it sounds even more interesting. Very nice review, Lucas!

        • lucasai says:

          It indeed hit the spam filter but I let it through. Well, I’m not a TOP perfume blogger, brands don’t knock at my door to ask me to be the first one who will review a scent online. (although I was first for MFK Amyris) but CFB confirms my thesis that calone is not there.

          Now I’m sure you’ll give it a try. You’re in the US, AC offers samples at their website now.

  5. MonkeyBars says:

    Thanks for your review. Perhaps there is a bit of seaweed absolute to give that marine feel.

  6. Wonderful review, Lucas! I think you nailed my experience of Mistral Patchouli perfectly. So glad to hear that you are enjoying it. It is not what anyone expected, isn’t it? Hope that all is well!

  7. hajusuuri says:

    Nice review, Lucas! I have to seek out a sample – transparent patchouli is what I am expecting. I just looked at the website and I am surprised that they have a storefront in downtown NYC. I have a dinner engagement next week literally right around the corner from the store; I will try to stop by before the dinner. I do wish Sephora carries it in-store but alas, such is not the case.

    • lucasai says:

      It really is a transparent patchouli, I thikn you’ll like it.
      How great, do stop by their store to smell it! Looking forward to hear what you think about it.

  8. Undina says:

    I was asking about it at the Atelier counter at Saks and they didn’thave it yet. I’m curious to try this new offering since I have a soft spot for the brand: I liked most of their perfumes.
    Thank you for the heads-up on the “marine” part. Yours is the first review I read.

    • lucasai says:

      It’s very new, it has just appeared at Atelier Cologne website. They also added 100ml bottles to the 30 & 200ml lineup.
      Glad to hear you like the brand, I like Ateler Cologne too, only Vetiver Fatal wasn’t of my liking, but I don’t like vetiver, so you know πŸ˜‰

      Glad I could be the 1st one πŸ™‚ Hope you’ll like and enjoy Mistral Patchouli

  9. Libby says:

    I am a patchouli gal from the late 60s.
    Have worn Knowing for 25 years and still love it.
    Mistral Patchouli just entered my life today. My husband likes it and I think it is quite lovely. Sometimes I smell the grapefruit, sometimes anise and patchouli.

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