Another 3 weeks passed since last session of Monday Quick Sniffs. Today it’s time for part 9.
Netherlands niche perfume brand Nasomatto launched Pardon in 2011. Creator of this perfume is Alessandro Gualtieri. Nasomatto Pardon features notes of magnolia, flowery tones, dark chocolate, tonka, cinnamon, sandalwood and oud. Right from the start oud is the loudest note. Surprisingly it’s just a little dirty. It has a blast in the opening because it’s really dense. Very soon it is followed by sandalwood which brings more woodiness to the scent making it a little bit more challenging. It’s warm and spicy now, also quite smooth and balmy. Twenty-few minutes after applying the new dimension appears. Dark chocolate give Pardon a lovely gourmand vibe. It’s delicious and moderately sweet with a hint of cinnamon that spices the rich aroma of chocolate. Tonka bean makes Nasomatto Pardon smooth and well mannered. Magnolia and flowers only have a quiet tingle in the background. It’s a lovely fragrance, well blended one. Longevity is good but I would expect a greater sillage from parfum concentration.
Oud Wood was introduced to Tom Ford Private Blend line in 2007. First thing I noticed after spraying a little bit of the scent from my sample was an opulent, sweet and lovely vanilla. Right then hefty agarwood appeared. My nose found it extremely balmy and dense, almost impossible to smell through. After a while when rosewood and sandalwood joined the composition with their power I felt helpless and gave up. I just couldn’t stand how rich and overpowering it was. Coriander, sichuan pepper and vetiver made it even worse. I clogged my nose and went to the bathroom to wash this monster off my skin. Gosh, what a traumatic experience. Oud Wood was definitely too much everything on me and I’m not used to such heavy compositions as I prefer lighter things. If you like dense and dirty scents give it a try. Maybe you won’t get bullied by it. I try to believe it’s a good perfume but for a very specific audience.
In 2011 Histoires de Parfums introduced their first trio of finest raw materials fragrances in collection named Edition Rare. Ambrarem is one of them (next to Petroleum and Rosam). How does it smell? In the opening it literally attacks with a huge dose of oud which smells intensively woody and plastified in my opinion. Very raw and strange, creepy vibe hides within. Soon amber comes forth and Ambrarem turns powdery and slightly sweet thanks to it. Later on castoreum creates a feeling that reminds me of leather or suede and then it’s iris which calms everything down a little bit. There’s also some vanilla and saffron that make the scent rounded. Other notes I didn’t notice are elemi and pink pepper. Histoires de Parfums Ambrarem is kind of a wild and animalic perfume of great longevity and slightly less great sillage (powerful on the start, quiet later). It’s not my favourite from silver Edition Rare trio but definitely worth sampling.