Monday Quick Sniffs, part 9

Another 3 weeks passed since last session of Monday Quick Sniffs. Today it’s time for part 9.

Netherlands niche perfume brand Nasomatto launched Pardon in 2011. Creator of this perfume is Alessandro Gualtieri. Nasomatto Pardon features notes of magnolia, flowery tones, dark chocolate, tonka, cinnamon, sandalwood and oud. Right from the start oud is the loudest note. Surprisingly it’s just a little dirty. It has a blast in the opening because it’s really dense. Very soon it is followed by sandalwood which brings more woodiness to the scent making it a little bit more challenging. It’s warm and spicy now, also quite smooth and balmy. Twenty-few minutes after applying the new dimension appears. Dark chocolate give Pardon a lovely gourmand vibe. It’s delicious and moderately sweet with a hint of cinnamon that spices the rich aroma of chocolate. Tonka bean makes Nasomatto Pardon smooth and well mannered. Magnolia and flowers only have a quiet tingle in the background. It’s a lovely fragrance, well blended one. Longevity is good but I would expect a greater sillage from parfum concentration.

Oud Wood was introduced to Tom Ford Private Blend line in 2007. First thing I noticed after spraying a little bit of the scent from my sample was an opulent, sweet and lovely vanilla. Right then hefty agarwood appeared. My nose found it extremely balmy and dense, almost impossible to smell through. After a while when rosewood and sandalwood joined the composition with their power I felt helpless and gave up. I just couldn’t stand how rich and overpowering it was. Coriander, sichuan pepper and vetiver made it even worse. I clogged my nose and went to the bathroom to wash this monster off my skin. Gosh, what a traumatic experience. Oud Wood was definitely too much everything on me and I’m not used to such heavy compositions as I prefer lighter things. If you like dense and dirty scents give it a try. Maybe you won’t get bullied by it. I try to believe it’s a good perfume but for a very specific audience.

In 2011 Histoires de Parfums introduced their first trio of finest raw materials fragrances in collection named Edition Rare. Ambrarem is one of them (next to Petroleum and Rosam). How does it smell? In the opening it literally attacks with a huge dose of oud which smells intensively woody and plastified in my opinion. Very raw and strange, creepy vibe hides within. Soon amber comes forth and Ambrarem turns powdery and slightly sweet thanks to it. Later on castoreum creates a feeling that reminds me of leather or suede and then it’s iris which calms everything down a little bit. There’s also some vanilla and saffron that make the scent rounded. Other notes I didn’t notice are elemi and pink pepper. Histoires de Parfums Ambrarem is kind of a wild and animalic perfume of great longevity and slightly less great sillage (powerful on the start, quiet later). It’s not my favourite from silver Edition Rare trio but definitely worth sampling.

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32 thoughts on “Monday Quick Sniffs, part 9

  1. Pardon was a 1 bone for me as it just turned horribly metallic. As for TF, why is it that most of his fragrances have to shout?!

    • lucasai says:

      That’s interesting, I didn’t get any metallic out of Pardon. Skin chemistry I suppose.

      I don’t know, maybe Tom Ford thinks he’s a super macho and that he’s supposed to make fragrances that’ll be macho just like he is. Only Neroli Portofino and Lavender Palm are quite well behaved

  2. Jordan River says:

    Have another wander though Oud Wood in a month.

  3. I always love your quick sniffs series! Keep ’em coming!

    (and just one quick thing: I think you have typo for Nasomatto)

  4. Kafkaesque says:

    Aaaaah, Tom Ford turns out to be the scrubber you referred to on Friday. Was this your first foray into his Private Blend line? His perfumes are very brazen and bold in general but, if I recall correctly, the concentration of his Private Blends is significantly higher than his regular line. 25% instead of 17% is what I read somewhere. To me, that means that the power is even *more* amped up. I’m sorry it was such a terrible, traumatic experience for you. 😦

    Funnily enough, a friend was just talking about Oud Wood last night. She’s not into ouds or sillage monsters per se, and yet it’s her favorite perfume ever. I have a sample to review, so I’ll see how it goes (though Tobacco Vanille is up first). I have to confess, I don’t like his Neroli Portofino much. I find that one too loud and screechy, almost cloying and synthetic, but it’s been a while since I last tried it out, so I should probably revisit it sometime soon.

    • lucasai says:

      That’s right my friend. Yes, I guess I can say it was my first experience with Private Blend. Earlier I tried Neroli Portofino which I barely remember (but I liked it) and this one was second. It’s hard for me to sample them, Private Blend is not sold in Poland except few positions.
      That’s a nice change in perfumed infusion but I’m not sure if I miss much not trying them.
      Aa, that really is funny! Glad at least your friend find it interesting.

  5. Undina says:

    Even though I’m a Tom Ford’s fan Oud Wood didn’t work for me at all.

    I haven’t tried the other two and I’m not sure if I will since I don’t like agarwood that much. But it was interesting to read your take on them.

  6. hajusuuri says:

    All 3 sound interesting and if I come across them, i will sniff them. Well, I may skip the HdP Edition Rare Ambrarem. I have a sample of Petroleum from the same series and it is VILE.

  7. Tatiana says:

    I love TF Oud Wood. I like to layer one spritz that I walk through with another spritz of Champaca Absolute. The key is one light spritz in the air that you then walk through. Then again, I like my perfumes to be dark, skanky, heavy hitters.

  8. Natalie says:

    Even though your descriptions are as compelling and immediate-feeling as ever, I find myself rolling my eyes every time I read the word “oud.” 😉

  9. voicemint says:

    Your review of Tom Ford Oud Wood seems spot-on for me. It’s a very potent perfume and so it has to be applied very conservatively. Otherwise it overpowers, for anyone who prefers a lighter strength and more reserved sillage. I prefer to be a little more carefree in how I apply a fragrance, so I passed on this one.

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