Thanks to Galilu Neo-perfumery some fragrances from Arquiste line finaly arrived to Poland. I’ve been curious about few of them so I quickly ordered few samples to sniff and take my time doing some testing. I bought samples of three – Fleur de Louis, Alexandr and Boutonniere No. 7. Fleur de Louis quickly became my clear favourite in this small group of Arquiste scents I got to try.
Arquiste Fleur de Louis was created with notes of neroli, jasmine, iris, orris root, rose, virginia cedar and pine. Rodrigo Flores-Roux is a perfumer responsible for making this scent. The perfume take’s its inspiration from the wedding ceremony between Louis XVI and Infanta Maria Teresa.
Fleur de Louis begins with sheer, quite cold neroli (African orange flower if you please). The opening is very clear and the neroli is so intensive it almost crosses the border between sharp and mellow. Luckily Rodrigo Flores-Roux handled neroli with a lot of care – it smells naturally and it lacks that plastified floral sweetness that some neroli perfume can develop after first two hours of wearing it.
Iris comes next and if I were to color it I would say it’s light purple with gray spots. The powdery smell is not really accented, it’s more subtle and neroli translates the iris to more floral, velvety smell of the petals. Jasmine joins the flowery companions introducing the substantial element of femininity. If Fleur de Louis didn’t have this note I would call it a unisex perfume, with jasmine it’s much closer to the ladies side of the spectrum. I was surprised that jasmine warms up the compositon.
After few hours iris changes its costume. It takes of this light, almost transparent lace and dresses in a dress in a dark shade of gray. It’s a journey from petals to the roots. Orris root is a magnificent thing here. It’s rooty, not earthy, clean, but not soapy, light but with a character. It’s also accompanied by a handful of pine needles and a rose which turns quite seductive in this very environment. And it lasts, lasts, lasts and lasts for many hours for a whole working day losing its power hour after hour.
Fleur de Louis by Arquiste is concentrated at eau de parfum level and it comes in 55 ml bottles.