Today, a first spring edition of Monday Quick Sniffs with some latest novelties I tried.
Dries Van Noten par Frederic Malle begins a new perfume foray of collaboration between Frederic Malle and other personas like designers etc. This line is said to be built of 30 fragrances! Right from the start I was welcomed by a generous dose of sweet vanilla that few minutes later was followed by sandalwood note. Combination of these two make Dries Van Noten quite a gourmand scent, to me it smells like a vanilla pudding. And then musk intruduces even more foody vibe with its smell that I recognize as almonds. It’s almost dripping with sweetness. After some time more spicy tones appear – what we have here is aromatic saffron, velvety tonka beans but they never let Dries Van Noten to leave a gourmand teritory. 3-4 hours later vanilla makes a comeback and this time it is more powdery. Other notes that I couldn’t pick are guaiac wood, patchouli, lemon, bergamot, jasmine and nutmeg. Definitely not for me.
The newest baby from Serge Lutens holds a name of La Fille de Berlin, a girl from Berlin translated from French. I had mixed feeling about this perfume from the moment I sprayed it on. First few seconds make me think of a hairspray then the right composition starts. I get a lot of spicy and metalized pepper which kind of makes me feel insecure. The feeling I get is neither warm from pepper nor cold from a metallic vibe. It’s somewhere in between like La Fille de Berlin couldn’t make up her mind who she wants to be. Then, after 15 minutes I start to smell rose. It’s big, scarlet red and ultra feminine. To me it has some green foliage element to it and I get a cumin-like impression underneath the petals. After a while I managed to notice that rose in La Fille de Berlin has quite powerful tea quality which smells good to me – it breaks this metallic and wobbly character of this new Serge Lutens. As I mentioned I can’t make up my mind if I like it or not. I think I’d rather answer “no” than “yes”, it’s very feminine, too feminine for me and I think some women will also find it to feminine or too vamp.
From the American house, Arquiste here comes Boutonniere No 7 which is a unisex fragrance released in late 2012. When I saw its notes and found lavender, petitgrain and oakmoss there I thought it might be an ideal scent for me. But the first spray toned down my hopes. The opening is a huge, beefy and kind of animalic (almost skanky on me) gardenia which is quickly followed by floral lavender. The aromatic lavender rescued Boutonniere No 7 from being washed off my skin as gardenia was hard to go through. Lavender is ok here, but I wish it was more herbal. Later the scent turns into woody vetiver with spicy undertones. Vetiver doesn’t put me off here (my anti-vetiver radar didn’t turn red). As the time flies this Arquiste transforms into an earthy because of the oakmoss with some crispier green elements of petitgrain. Its drydown is animalic and unpleasant because of genet (it’s secretion must be similar to civet, they belong to the same species)