This month French niche perfume house, L’Artisan Parfumeur will introduce us to their new fragrance. Caligna, which means “wooing” in Provençal is a scent that marks the beginning of a new collection – La Collection De Grasse. Also this is the first ever perfume from L’Artisan Parfumeur that will be fronted by someone. In this case promo includes images of Gudrun Ghesquière, a dancer.
L’Artisan Parfumeur Caligna is a simple yet intriguing creation. Were I to determine its style, I would say that its scent really evokes the Mediterranean character. On me it smells really vegetal which makes me think of warm and sunny day spent somewhere in Provence between plantations of herbs and grapevine. You’re on holidays and the only think you need now is some relax.
After spraying it I immediately notice the fig note. I have to admit that I’m not fond of the note – I can’t stand Diptyque’s Philosykos while Ninfeo Mio from Annick Goutal is much better for me. I think I could rock it if I wanted to. In Caligna fig is a very green note, the fruit is unripe (giving a slightly creamy sensation) and is paired with greenery scent of sun warmed leaves. A quick look into the notes gives a hint these are tangerine leaves. After a while the aroma develops into something more dusty and herbal, few more minutes make me realize it’s a clary sage with its specific smell. So far Caligna is warm and sunny, with a feeling like you were sitting in the garden-plot.
An hour later when scents of green fig and foliage dissipate I slowly start to notice some delicate flowery tones. Caligna contains a rose accord which is very gentle, it’s not a flower itself, it’s light rose water. Trying to go deeper into the scent one can try to identify jasmine or violets. What I get is dewy and ethereal floral notes but I don’t get any particular aromas I associate with these flowers.
As the time flies and L’Artisan Parfumeur Caligna progresses more into the base notes it becomes even more Mediterranean than it was in the opening. Mastic derived from Pistacia lentiscus brings a slightly resinous vibe to the scent. It well matches the aroma of crushed pine needles (and the tree sap that I seem to smell). The opening has some woody quality of oak and everything is rounded by ambergris. Caligna has a good lasting power as for a perfume that is rather light, it’s sillage isn’t very big, probably few inches. Maybe it would perform better in the spring weather? Maybe not?
Please allow a personal digression here. Caligna didn’t make my heart skip a beat and I don’t like it much. It has some notes I like and some that I don’t but overally I don’t find it charming enough for me. I like that it smells so casually and informally but I just can’t see myself wearing it. Just as expected. L’Artisan Parfumeur is one widely loved brand but I learned that most of their offering don’t suit my style and my vision. I’m not sad about it because I know many of you would love Caligna.
Caligna is a new perfume from L’Artisan Parfumeur. It’s due to launch in April, will be available only in 100 ml bottles, eau de parfum concentrated. Nose behind it is Dora Baghriche-Arnaud.