Flower of Immortality is the third installment to the By Kilian’s Asian Tales collection inaugurated in 2012 by the launch of Bamboo Harmony and Water Calligraphy. I haven’t tried the latter two so I can’t compare if Flower of Immortality is better or not. Basing only on initial few minutes after application I can say with no shame that the new By Kilian smells like… peach ice tea! Yes, your eyes don’t deceive you, peach ice tea. The opening is fruity for sure – ripe peach is a dominating aroma from the start. You not only can smell the peel but the juicy pulp too. This smell totally reminds me of peach ice tea, probably Nestea. After some time I get a watered down rose and a powdery iris which has some artificial talcum/blush like smell. Flower of Immortality evolves into watery, dewy floral (peach is still the strongest note) which gets sweeter with time because of the black currant note. In the drydown there’s some tonka bean – its hard to find it because of the fruits and flowers but I think it adds some creamy quality. Carrot seeds may add a touch of green, vegetal smell. If you get the opportunity to try Flower of Immortality, please do. In any other case I beg you – don’t waste your money on it. It’s so not worth it! Who wants to smell like a peach ice tea for this money?
It’s been a while since I wanted to try Lavender Palm, one of the fragrances from Tom Ford Private Blend line-up. Immediately after spraying lavender molecules bombard my nose. As much as I like lavender I found this particular one to be too floral for my tastes. But I liked the fact that it was so aromatic and intense. Addition of lemon blends well with lavender. Generally speaking lavender + citrus is a good combination. Lemon blossom and bergamot introduced more citric vibe with hints of greenery and foliage but it was a little bit too much I think. After some time I caught a waft of clary sage, herbal and sun-warmed and with a sweaty undertone typical to this perfume material. Later the perfume got kind of watered down with flowery tones (oleander, how does that smell?) and a little bit woody. There was some oakmoss but it was far from smelling like a chypre fragrance. Vetiver and olibanum? I didn’t get either of these, fortunately. To sum up, Lavender Palm is not a bad perfume but it’s not a good one too. I like different lavenders than this so I will pass, again. Sorry Tom Ford, I’m not ashamed.
Lumiere Noire pour Homme by Maison Francis Kurkdjian is a perfume story about the rose. Once upon a time there was a rose. It had scarlet petals that smelled so distinctive, rich and dark that those who praised it decided to hide it in the deepest, darkest and most unfriendly part of the holy patchouli forest so that no one unworthy wouldn’t touch it. With time rose and patchouli married each other, but it was the patchouli who was a strong husband. It gave the dirty, earthy smell to rose with hints of spicy elements. Artemisia brought the leafy, herbal and “wild” vibe to Lumiere Noire pour Homme. Cinnamon on the other hand was spicy, sparkling and warm, even piquant aromas were noticed by my nose. Unfortunately the drydown is ruled by the evil King Caraway, who took over the empire and caused that everything else didn’t matter – the smell he possessed covered everything else. The whole kingdom got covered by the shadow of caraway. Separately I love two of the notes from this perfume: rose, cinnamon, two I hate: patchouli, caraway, I’m indifferent to artemisia. Caraway dismissed this perfume for me.