Monday Quick Sniffs, part 13

Flower of Immortality is the third installment to the By Kilian’s Asian Tales collection inaugurated in 2012 by the launch of Bamboo Harmony and Water Calligraphy. I haven’t tried the latter two so I can’t compare if Flower of Immortality is better or not. Basing only on initial few minutes after application I can say with no shame that the new By Kilian smells like… peach ice tea! Yes, your eyes don’t deceive you, peach ice tea. The opening is fruity for sure – ripe peach is a dominating aroma from the start. You not only can smell the peel but the juicy pulp too. This smell totally reminds me of peach ice tea, probably Nestea. After some time I get a watered down rose and a powdery iris which has some artificial talcum/blush like smell. Flower of Immortality evolves into watery, dewy floral (peach is still the strongest note) which gets sweeter with time because of the black currant note. In the drydown there’s some tonka bean – its hard to find it because of the fruits and flowers but I think it adds some creamy quality. Carrot seeds may add a touch of green, vegetal smell. If you get the opportunity to try Flower of Immortality, please do. In any other case I beg you – don’t waste your money on it. It’s so not worth it! Who wants to smell like a peach ice tea for this money?

It’s been a while since I wanted to try Lavender Palm, one of the fragrances from Tom Ford Private Blend line-up. Immediately after spraying lavender molecules bombard my nose. As much as I like lavender I found this particular one to be too floral for my tastes. But I liked the fact that it was so aromatic and intense. Addition of lemon blends well with lavender. Generally speaking lavender + citrus is a good combination. Lemon blossom and bergamot introduced more citric vibe with hints of greenery and foliage but it was a little bit too much I think. After some time I caught a waft of clary sage, herbal and sun-warmed and with a sweaty undertone typical to this perfume material.Β  Later the perfume got kind of watered down with flowery tones (oleander, how does that smell?) and a little bit woody. There was some oakmoss but it was far from smelling like a chypre fragrance. Vetiver and olibanum? I didn’t get either of these, fortunately. To sum up, Lavender Palm is not a bad perfume but it’s not a good one too. I like different lavenders than this so I will pass, again. Sorry Tom Ford, I’m not ashamed.

Lumiere Noire pour Homme by Maison Francis Kurkdjian is a perfume story about the rose. Once upon a time there was a rose. It had scarlet petals that smelled so distinctive, rich and dark that those who praised it decided to hide it in the deepest, darkest and most unfriendly part of the holy patchouli forest so that no one unworthy wouldn’t touch it. With time rose and patchouli married each other, but it was the patchouli who was a strong husband. It gave the dirty, earthy smell to rose with hints of spicy elements. Artemisia brought the leafy, herbal and “wild” vibe to Lumiere Noire pour Homme. Cinnamon on the other hand was spicy, sparkling and warm, even piquant aromas were noticed by my nose. Unfortunately the drydown is ruled by the evil King Caraway, who took over the empire and caused that everything else didn’t matter – the smell he possessed covered everything else. The whole kingdom got covered by the shadow of caraway. Separately I love two of the notes from this perfume: rose, cinnamon, two I hate: patchouli, caraway, I’m indifferent to artemisia. Caraway dismissed this perfume for me.

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32 thoughts on “Monday Quick Sniffs, part 13

  1. Peach ice tea. One of my favorites in the summer…that is for drinking, not wearing πŸ™‚

  2. brie says:

    Lavender Palm is the one I would like to try (let’s hope that Kafka isn’t reading this :D!!)

  3. rosarita says:

    Your review of Lumiere Noire pour Homme made me laugh πŸ™‚ I’m fond of caraway in sauerkraut and rye bread, not so much in perfume.

  4. lorraine says:

    I’ve been wondering about Lumiere Noire…and your post made me wonder – when a perfumer dislikes a note, are they likely to avoid it in their creations? Are we never to smell patchouli in any of your future compositions? Or perhaps you will see it as a challenge and make a patchouli fragrance that you like??

    • lucasai says:

      I think that it all depends. In my opinion future (and present) perfumers should challenge their noses to create a perfume with a note that they particularly dislike.

      If I were a perfumer (and I hope to be one!) I will probabl shy away from patchouli or vetiver but will eventually try to make a perfume with these as dominant notes.

  5. Kevin says:

    Flower of Immortality – totally not worth it, even at a tenth of the price. Way too sweet, and incredibly fleeting.

    Love Lavender Palm, though I don’t wear it often. But I really like florals, so…

    I believe I did try Lumiere Noire pour Homme, though I sadly don’t remember it. I feel like I would remember caraway, though, as I hate the smell and it would make any perfume a no-go for me if I could smell that element.

    Nice summation of the three, I enjoyed reading it!

    • lucasai says:

      Who wants to smell like peach Nestea right?

      I prefer a herbal lavender to floral lavender, that says it all πŸ˜€

      Maybe the caraway in Lumiere Noire pour Homme wasn’t so strong as on my skin?

      Thanks Kevin!

  6. Tarleisio says:

    I’ve had…not that great experiences with By Kilian, so I think I’ll take my peaches straight… πŸ˜‰ Lavender Palm – so I’ve read – is rather strange, but I do love lavender, so if it ever pops up…but caraway??? No. Thank. You. πŸ˜‰

  7. Kafkaesque says:

    But the real question is: did you get the smell of a baby’s head from the unholy schizophrenic cacophony that is Lavender Palm??! πŸ˜› πŸ˜‰ Unless you did, then you got off lightly. LOL.

    I fully agree with you on the Kilian Flower of Immortality. I’m curious though, how long did it last on you? It’s crazy that me — with my perfume consuming skin — actually had *better* longevity than many others. I think it lasted all of 10 minutes on Kevin, and on Fragrantica, one woman got a whole 20 minutes out of it! For the price he’s asking…. sheesh!

    • lucasai says:

      No, I didn’t get a baby’s head smell out of Lavender Palm πŸ˜€

      The price is so unfair for this perfume. It lasted 3-4 hours on me, so it’s excellent comparing to Kevin’s,

      Sheesh indeed!

  8. Undina says:

    Love your quick sniffs, Lucas. I haven’t tried any of the three yet but I have a sample of Lavender Palm and plan to test it soon. As to By Kilian’s perfume, I will try it when I get a chance but I do not like peach in perfumes and even with Bamboo Harmony that I liked I thought it was too expensive for me for what it offered – so I do not have high hopes for it.

  9. Dear Lucas
    Your quick sniffs are some of my favourite reviews of yours… I adore the one for Lumiere Noire even though the fragrance is probably not for me.
    In fact, though a lavender-loving sort of a chap, I’m not tempting by any of this trio, but your comments are a delight all the same.
    Oh yes and, like some above, peach tea sounds delicious to imbibe but not apport.
    Yours ever
    The Perfumed Dandy

    • lucasai says:

      Thank you! I have a lot of fun writing those short summaries. And sometimes they turn quite funny – like Lumiere Noire here!

      Another fan of peach ice-tea! Yeah!

  10. hajusuuri says:

    Lucas dear, MFK Lumiere Noir Pour Homme did not stand a chance! I think this was one of the ones I tried at the Bergdorfs MFK counter and the look on my face told the SA not to even try to say ANYTHING to redeem the ‘fume…not one peep.

    I won a sample of Flower of Immortality from The Posse, if you recall. It was anemic and only lasted but a few minutes on me. It was worse than a watered-down discounted body spray.

    As to the TF Lavender Palm, I have a sample but have not tried it yet. Your reaction to it makes me want to keep it with the unloved samples pile…

    • lucasai says:

      Did not stand a chance! Haha! Looks like you also got caraway that didn’t appeal to you? Have you tried Lumiere Noire pour Femme? I think it’s better than the male one.

      I remember you won it and I’m *HAPPY* to read it didn’t work for you either.

      About Lavender Palm, yes, do leave it in the unloved samples pile πŸ˜› At least for now!

  11. laniersmith says:

    Like The Perfumed Dandy I too adore your quick sniffs. The last one on Lumiere Noire pour Homme had me enthralled. Loved it.

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