June perfume workshop report, part 2 of 2

Alright! We’ve been through the pure essences of citrus and exotic fruit. Some were natural and some were just artificial, chemical imitations of the real smell. The pattern of the previous workshop was to listen to the chemical and technology background of the note. This was all covered by Ania, who was introduced in May perfume workshop report. Then we tried the essence and after that it was followed by a couple of perfumes representing it.

This time everything was done in a similar manner. In total we tried 26 different perfumes. There were more prepared for sniffing but the basic number was 26. If someone didn’t have enough, they could give a try to some more after the official part of the workshop was over. I made this collage below for you, so that you can accompany me during this short travel through all the tested fragrances.

From the two bergamot perfumes we tried Jean Charles Brosseau Bergamote had too much melon to my taste while Cologne pour le Matin by Maison Francis Kurkdjian was a very subtle and pleasant scent that brought to my mind the association of fresh laundry. Clean, airy and fresh.

Atelier Cologne Mistral Patchouli was representing a grapefruit accord. It was much more patchouli than grapefruit to me. I reviewed it in January. 1828 inspired by Jules Verne was great! A tart grapefruit with a lovely note of pine tree. Histoires de Parfums is one of those brands I love almost for every single scent.

Trying some lemon perfumes was probably the most exciting part for me. I love lemon scents (mind my newest Acqua Decima!) so I was curious to see what Missala family prepared for us to try. Gosh, it was amazing! I was head over heels for Profvmvm Roma Acqua Viva! What a juicy and sparkling lemon it is! It has a blast of Annick Goutal Eau d’Hadrien but it lasts for 6 hours and more. Did you know that Profvmvm Roma put more than 40% of perfume oils into their perfume. Kafka recently fell in love with the brand! Another one that positively surprised me was Mediterraneo by Carthusia. Juicy and sour lemon with a beautiful vibe of green tea, eucalyptus and thyme. Very refreshing!

For lime we only tried Colette, another perfume from Histoires de Parfums range, named with a date of 1873. Once again I was really happy with the small, I liked everything in this fragrance. One of my favourites from this workshop.

I loved sampling Grand Neroli, an Atelier Cologne perfumes and also one of the earliest niche offerings I tried. I really like its pure, soapy neroli smell. I could bathe in it! Historiae Orangerie du Roy was a really good scent too. This brand is not much known and it deserves more appreciation. So far they released 5, mostly floral scents but they recently introduced a good rose-oud scent. On the contrary Atelier Cologne Orange Sanguine is one of the few scents in the line that I have mixed feelings about. On one hand I like the pure orange juice smell but on the other hand it often gets artificial and plasticky on my skin.

Honore’s Trip, a perfume from Honore des Pres wasn’t excellent but it left a generally positive impression. Nothing too fancy or complicated, easy to wear scent. It can definitely have a group of fans. For yuzu we samples Olfactive Studio Still Life – I tried it in the past. My opinion on it didn’t change. It’s just OK, nothing more. And I get very poor longevity from the entire line. Still it was nothing comparing to Parfum d’Empire Yuzu Fou. This one was disastrous. It smelled totally sweaty and dirty. Now I understand why there were so many comments about sweaty armpits.

Carla Fracci Colette and Rance Eugenie left me rather indifferent. I don’t like melon in my diet and I don’t like it in perfume. Both fragrances were quite watery with some powdery facets. Definitely possible to like and love, but not for me.

Number 16, Biehl pc01 was interesting. It has mango but it’s not straight-forward. Montale Mango Manga was very in-your-face. It was sweet and milky with a buttery texture of the fruit pulp. It was also really intensive to me as for a fruity perfume. Manguier Metisse was warm and with pronounced tropical aspect. I liked this offering from Huitieme Art Parfums.

I wasn’t impressed with banana fragrances. Penhaligon’s was powdery and it actually smelled of banana while Fleur de Liane had nothing to do with it. Considering my hard relationship with L’Artisan Parfumeur I will quickly forget about it.

Time for some coconut. Love Coco was lovely. Powdery, fleshy and full-bodied. Ombre Platine wasn’t really to my liking and for Batucada (another L’Artisan!) I even forgot to take any notes! That says it all! Last group of perfumes was representing peach.

One I remember well is SoOud Ouris. It was a very happy, milky perfume that smelled very similar to the peach cheesecake. Yummy! If you read my Quick Sniffs you already know my opinion that By Kilian Flower of Immortality smells like peach Nestea and that it’s not a compliment. Last one was M.Micallef Vanille Fleur – it was warm, sweet with a generous dose of caramel. Had not much to do with peach.

I’d like to say thank you to Missala family for organizing another perfume workshop and to Ania for teaching us some new things about the notes and perfumes. I spent a lovely time in Warsaw having fun with all the perfume enthusiasts. I’m sure we’ll meet again soon!

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44 thoughts on “June perfume workshop report, part 2 of 2

  1. Jordan River says:

    Great information. I hope that there are more of these workshops to share. Thank you for sharing this and many other educative posts.

    • lucasai says:

      Glad you think so! I had so much fun and easy-learning that I just had to share it with you. Workshops will have a break during summer but they’ll be back in early autumn,

  2. jilliecat says:

    Well, thanks to you I know what will be on my birthday list (to my husband’s concern!) – the Profvmvm. I love Eau d’Hadrien, but am always sad that it disappears quickly, so the Profvmvm should be lemon heaven.

  3. hajusuuri says:

    Woo hoo. You have created a few must try lemmings. When the weather gets cooler, baconbiscuit and I will need to do another NYC sniffa. The Profumum sounds really good: it seems to be at the other end of the spectrum as compared with the ambers that Kafka wrote about, both of which I smelled (and loved) at Osswalds!

    • jilliecat says:

      Maybe that should be “a few must try lemons” (at least in my case!).

    • lucasai says:

      Yay for a sniffa with Baconbiscuit. You get along well, don’t you. Which fragrances are the lemmings?
      Yes, it’s at the other side of spectrum ,away from Kafka’s ambers. I only know this Acqua Viva and Ninfea which is a rose with a cut grass perfume.

      • hajusuuri says:

        Oh yes…Baconbiscuit and I really connected!

        My to try lemmings:
        HdP 1828
        Profumum Roma Acqua Viva
        Biehl pc01
        Montale Mango Manga
        SoOud Ouris
        M. Micallef Vanille Fleur (from the Collection Vanille, I almost bought the Vanille Orient but I was annoyed that it was only available in the 100 mL size)

        • lucasai says:

          You’ll love 1828, Acqua Viva and Ouris for sure!

          • hajusuuri says:

            I’m looking forward to trying. I also want to try the HdP 1873. As to some of the ones I did not list, I either already have samples or own a FB. For example, I have 30 mLs of Atelier Cologne Mistral Patchouli and samples of Olfactive Studio Stlll Life and the PdE. I have an Atelier Cologne Orange Sanguine soap,

            • lucasai says:

              1873 was one of my faves at the workshop. I thought I got a gift sample of it while I was leaving but at home it turned out I got 1876 so I don’t have 1873 on hand at the moment.
              So great you’ve got those small Atelier Colognes. I’m longing for a small Rose Anonyme (to decant from my big bottle into the small one) and I’d love small size of Ambre Nue.

      • Kafkaesque says:

        LOL about me and the ambers. *grin* I love how it’s so well-accepted that I’m going to go to the deep end of the Oriental well whenever I can. Heh. I also love how you, dear Lucas, have such opposite tastes because that makes it a lot of fun, you know? I love how we can tease and admire each other’s totally opposite perfume styles. *hugs* my friend.

        • lucasai says:

          Why LOL. You love ’em right? I’ve got few ambers I love too. Actually one amber is coming my way I think.
          You know you can laugh at my easy and lighthearted perfume style I prefer and that I admire you for being so passionate for orientals – I wish I could be like that sometimes.

          How are you doing? You’ve been busy with Zola, how is he? Is the operation going to happen or not?

          • Kafkaesque says:

            I posted about it you know where, so I’ll spare your readers that discussion here. Bottom line though, no operation. 7th time a no-go. *sigh*

            Back to perfumes, my dear, you have the same passion for your iris scents! You do, seriously, have the exact same fire, enthusiasm and detailed knowledge when it comes to that grouping. We all have our thing — and if I ever need suggestions or an iris expert, I know the first place I’d go. πŸ™‚

            • lucasai says:

              Oh dear! Sorry the operation won’t proceed this time too. So, what are you going to do? Schedule another date or give up?

              That’s true that I love my iris and I love it in different forms and sometimes irises are very meh for me. Seriously there are a few I wouldn’t even touch a bottle of!

  4. Tora says:

    Such an informative visit to the world of citrus! I too, love the Profumum, and I absolutely marveled at it’s longevity and how it stayed so very true to real lemon. Thanks for the tutorial. I look forward to more!

  5. Dionne says:

    Great write-up, Lukas. I haven’t experienced that many lemmings in one post in a long time. There are several here I hadn’t heard of before that I really want to sample now.

  6. poodle says:

    I love this list you made. Great post. I bet there are some citrus scents on here that I might actually like. I’m not a huge citrus fan because it reminds me of cleaning products but I like when there’s a realistic citrus note in a scent.

  7. Undina says:

    Nice picture πŸ™‚

    I like Manguier Metisse and I hate peach in perfumes.

  8. Kafkaesque says:

    Hahaha at the L’artisan Batucada leaving absolutely no impression or memory at all! Well, alas, my memory of it still remains. Metallic, aquatic, salty beach notes and coconut oil, all under a Mojito cocktail. NOT my thing at all!

    But this workshop sounds like an utter blast, Lucas! And naturally, the Profumum one heads the list of what I’m tempted by. πŸ˜‰ On the other hand, I could seriously do with not reeking of a banana perfume and an MFK that smells of clean, fresh laundry would be at the top of my verboten list! Blech. Powdery melon….. I’m with you on that one too!

    Still, all in all, I have to say, I’m so glad you fell hard for a Profumum. Between us, we will spread the word about the house, won’t we? πŸ˜€

    • lucasai says:

      I just forgot to take notes, which probably means there was nothing important to write down about it πŸ˜›

      It was great. They’re also organizing workshop about ambers, something ideal for you my dear! The Profvmvm was great. I will probably not buy that citrus because of the limited period of year I would wear it buy maybe a decant will do?

      I’ve got two other Profvmvm perfumes on hand, these are Ninfea and Antico Caruso. We should get some treats for spreading the news about the house πŸ˜›

      • Kafkaesque says:

        We totally should! With the Olibanum that I will review soon, that makes 6 in total between us. Surely that entitles us to some decant or another? πŸ˜‰ (If only!)

        • lucasai says:

          Oh, you’re going to review another Profvmvm, that’s great. Did you already buy and split that Amber of theirs you said you were going to buy.

          You know we celebrate on Monday? And then I have a special treat for all of you!

  9. such a special experience that would be. thank you for sharing. I wrote down a couple to try πŸ™‚

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