Fragrances created by Master Serge Lutens or crafted by another perfumer under Lutens advice always seemed very distinctive to me. Placed on one of the highest shelves of niche perfumery because of their masterful use of ingredients and innovative concepts. Maybe it wasn’t a good idea to start a niche perfume adventure with such a high level of complexity…
Without any particular reason each time I tried a fragrance signed with a name of Serge Lutens it turned out I appreciated the scent but I found it very hard to wear them regularly. It was like I was visiting an art gallery where I could see many beautiful painting but neither felt like the one I could take home and hang it on the wall in my room. I left Lutens alone for months hoping that things will change one day. They changed… partially. I’ve found two scents I can wear. This is one of them.
On my skin Fleurs de Citronnier blossoms almost as a pure soliflore fragrance. Lemon blossom takes the central stage of the entire composition. Initially all attention is drawn to this note. It has a smooth finish. At the same time it is warm, full of energy from the sun. To my surprise this floral note carries a lot of citrus elements. At some level it smells like a fruit. I get an aromatic peel and after some time some juicy sweetness also joins the composition. Fleurs de Citronnier remains in this stage for at least 30 minutes on me.
After the 30 minutes mark the perfume starts to shift a little. The citrus vibe is pacified and white floral notes appear. Now the real lemon blossom appears. Combined with pure neroli essential oil this concoction brings to me the association of a shower. At this moment Serge Lutens fragrance smells clean, clear and refined. That’s how a human body after an invigorating wash should smell like. I wish it smelled like that! Oh how I wish for that!
I keep on saying how clean and pure Fleurs de Citronnier smells to me. I love my perfume when it’s clean, right? Prada Amber Pour Homme or Prada Infusion d’Homme are the best examples that I fancy this style of fragrance. Fleurs de Citronnier doesn’t evoke the smell of expensive soap to me. It’s clean, but not soapy clean. There’s something incredibly elegant in this perfume. It would be a perfect scent for a well groomed man in a tailor-made suit.
After a while the floral aromas of orange and lemon blossoms slowly dissipate and musky aromas come to the forefront. No other musk but a clean one could be used for Serge Lutens Fleurs de Citronnier. Here it has a warm and embracing aura. It smells like a fresh laundry hanging on a strings somewhere in the middle of a meadow where grass, wild flowers, ladybugs and butterflies live in harmony. Light and sheer toberose accord adds the accent of femininity to the perfume and it introduces a slightly noticeable, wilder vibe. I wouldn’t call it animalic, but it has something of that manner.
This phase is additionally pronounced by a honey note. It’s moderately sweet, not really sticky or edible. It just highlights the floral aspects of Fleurs de Citronnier well. In the drydown a powdery smell of iris (very tiny dose) can be eventually notice but it’s easy to miss it. Later it gets a little denser, but still pretty light. Petitgrain brings some earth power to this perfume.
Nutmeg and styrax resin are the final notes of Serge Lutens Fleurs de Citronnier listed af fragrantica but I didn’t notice them. That’s the fact that I noticed the perfume getting drier after a couple of hours but I couldn’t say it was a nutmeg. I didn’t smell the resin either.
All in all Fleurs de Citronnier is one of the simplest Lutens creations so if you like your perfume (especially a Lutens one) to be twisted and complicated, I think you should give up on this perfume, you won’t find anything complex in it. I found this perfume to be easy to wear because of its simplicity and purity that I like. This scent is perfect on a hot and humid summer days. Looks like I need to continue my search for my perfect (and more complex?) Serge Lutens scent.
Will there be the one for me? As for Fleurs de Citronnier I wasn’t disappointed with longevity, as the perfume lasted on me for 8 hours or more which is a great result for a sheer citrus-floral perfume. The sillage was moderate and turning lower every hour, eventually becoming a pleasant skinscent.