Freshness, Serge Lutens Fleurs de Citronnier

Fragrances created by Master Serge Lutens or crafted by another perfumer under Lutens advice always seemed very distinctive to me. Placed on one of the highest shelves of niche perfumery because of their masterful use of ingredients and innovative concepts. Maybe it wasn’t a good idea to start a niche perfume adventure with such a high level of complexity…

Without any particular reason each time I tried a fragrance signed with a name of Serge Lutens it turned out I appreciated the scent but I found it very hard to wear them regularly. It was like I was visiting an art gallery where I could see many beautiful painting but neither felt like the one I could take home and hang it on the wall in my room. I left Lutens alone for months hoping that things will change one day. They changed… partially. I’ve found two scents I can wear. This is one of them.

On my skin Fleurs de Citronnier blossoms almost as a pure soliflore fragrance. Lemon blossom takes the central stage of the entire composition. Initially all attention is drawn to this note. It has a smooth finish. At the same time it is warm, full of energy from the sun. To my surprise this floral note carries a lot of citrus elements. At some level it smells like a fruit. I get an aromatic peel and after some time some juicy sweetness also joins the composition. Fleurs de Citronnier remains in this stage for at least 30 minutes on me.

After the 30 minutes mark the perfume starts to shift a little. The citrus vibe is pacified and white floral notes appear. Now the real lemon blossom appears. Combined with pure neroli essential oil this concoction brings to me the association of a shower. At this moment Serge Lutens fragrance smells clean, clear and refined. That’s how a human body after an invigorating wash should smell like. I wish it smelled like that! Oh how I wish for that!

I keep on saying how clean and pure Fleurs de Citronnier smells to me. I love my perfume when it’s clean, right? Prada Amber Pour Homme or Prada Infusion d’Homme are the best examples that I fancy this style of fragrance. Fleurs de Citronnier doesn’t evoke the smell of expensive soap to me. It’s clean, but not soapy clean. There’s something incredibly elegant in this perfume. It would be a perfect scent for a well groomed man in a tailor-made suit.

After a while the floral aromas of orange and lemon blossoms slowly dissipate and musky aromas come to the forefront. No other musk but a clean one could be used for Serge Lutens Fleurs de Citronnier. Here it has a warm and embracing aura. It smells like a fresh laundry hanging on a strings somewhere in the middle of a meadow where grass, wild flowers, ladybugs and butterflies live in harmony. Light and sheer toberose accord adds the accent of femininity to the perfume and it introduces a slightly noticeable, wilder vibe. I wouldn’t call it animalic, but it has something of that manner.

This phase is additionally pronounced by a honey note. It’s moderately sweet, not really sticky or edible. It just highlights the floral aspects of Fleurs de Citronnier well. In the drydown a powdery smell of iris (very tiny dose) can be eventually notice but it’s easy to miss it. Later it gets a little denser, but still pretty light. Petitgrain brings some earth power to this perfume.

Nutmeg and styrax resin are the final notes of Serge Lutens Fleurs de Citronnier listed af fragrantica but I didn’t notice them. That’s the fact that I noticed the perfume getting drier after a couple of hours but I couldn’t say it was a nutmeg. I didn’t smell the resin either.

All in all Fleurs de Citronnier is one of the simplest Lutens creations so if you like your perfume (especially a Lutens one) to be twisted and complicated, I think you should give up on this perfume, you won’t find anything complex in it. I found this perfume to be easy to wear because of its simplicity and purity that I like. This scent is perfect on a hot and humid summer days. Looks like I need to continue my search for my perfect (and more complex?) Serge Lutens scent.

Will there be the one for me? As for Fleurs de Citronnier I wasn’t disappointed with longevity, as the perfume lasted on me for 8 hours or more which is a great result for a sheer citrus-floral perfume. The sillage was moderate and turning lower every hour, eventually becoming a pleasant skinscent.

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28 thoughts on “Freshness, Serge Lutens Fleurs de Citronnier

  1. Kafkaesque says:

    I’m glad you found one you really like, Lucas! And it sounds right up your alley, though I still think you’d love a few others too. (5 O’ Clock Au Gingembre and Bois Vanillé, for starters). And I’m not just saying that as one of Uncle Serge’s most vocal, devoted fans. (Well, okay, maybe a little because of that. lol) But really, I think you’d find those two to be quite harmonious, gentle, and relaxing. 🙂

    • lucasai says:

      I have to say that I tried 5 O’Clock the day before the perfume workshop, when I was already in Warsaw, at the shopping gallery to have something to eat. I liked it A LOT. And I could wear it daily. Maybe I’ll invenst in a bottle someday?

      • Kafkaesque says:

        *happy dance* See, SEEEEEEEEEEEEE!!!! Did I tell you or did I tell you? Weeks ago, I mentioned the 5 O’ Clock as one that you’d really like. I included De Profundis on that list, but forgot to mention it here. I think that one would bring you to your knees. Going back to 5 O’Clock, it’s been pulled from the US market, but you can still get it at a huge discount at a number of online stores. If you ever decide to invest in a bottle someday, then consider looking at some of those because, even with overseas shipping, it still may be less than a full bottle at regular price there.

        • lucasai says:

          I know you told me about this Lutens earlier. I liked the honeyed-smoked-tea smell which was gentle and not overpowering.
          We’ve got a lot of Lutens online here too so I will probably be able to get one online in Poland much cheaper than in store.

  2. It reacts so differently on your skin to mine by your description Lucasz but I can remember some of the bits you are writing about as they happen too. I am also a 5 O’Clock Gimgembre fan.
    Portia xx

  3. Dear Lucas
    How well you have described the sensation of this scent… it has similar feel of an invigorating shower and warm clean dry down to me too.
    It is quite apart from some of the other Serge Lutens’ scents but none the worse for embracing an apparent simplicity.
    At the risk of sounding boring though I will also through mmy hat into the ring as a fan of both Gimgembre and Bois Vanille…
    Yours ever
    The Perfumed Dandy

    • lucasai says:

      I’m happy to hear you found my description close to your own impressions evoked by Fleurs de Citronnier.
      I don’t know if I’m a fan of 5 O’Clock already but I like Bois Vanille too, reviewed it many months ago.

  4. Suzy Q says:

    Thanks for reviewing this one. You and I are on the same page about Serge Lutens and about this perfume. I also like Prada Infusion d’Iris both the masculine and feminine versions. Anyone who likes neroli should try FdC.

    A very kind perfumista sent me Un Lys. It is also an uncomplicated fragrance from SL. Both Un Lys and Fleurs de Citronnier are underrated, in my opinion. Maybe it’s because they’re less dramatic than many others in the line.

  5. hajusuuri says:

    I have to seek out a sample of this! It sounds really right up my alley. I really should look at some patterns with scent twin Lucas. I USUALLY like what Lucas likes, but I don’t necessarily hate what Lucas couldn’t stand.

    • lucasai says:

      You should like it considering our similar tastes.

      I know the rule. You usually like the same things I like, but sometimes you like the scents I didn’t find fancy.

  6. Undina says:

    Fleurs de Citronnier is one of a very few Serge Lutens’ perfumes that I not just missed to try but didn’t even remeber it existed. I’ll rectify it as soon as I can.

    There are several Lutens that I like and wear (though since I do not wear any perfume morethan twice a month I’m not looking for a “daily wear” in my perfumes any longer): De Profundis, Ambre Sultan, Boxeuses, Chergui, Fille en Aiguilles, Five O’Clock au Gingembre, Gris Clair, Iris Silver Mist, Jeux de Peau, Santal Majuscule, Vétiver Oriental and Vitriol d’oeillet. (marked in bold are those that I really like – as in paid for either a FB or a decant).

    • lucasai says:

      It’s one of the lesser known Serge Lutens perfumes so I’m not surprised you didn’t remember it being part of the line.
      I hope you can try it soon, you might like it I think.

      Glad you like so many Lutenses, I’m far from liking this many, LOL.

  7. I love just about everything from Serge Lutens, but I like twisted, complicated, and dramatic perfumes (that was beautifully put by you, btw!). However, I am also always on the lookout for a summer scent that works beautifully in heat. And there is nothing wrong with simplicity either if it is well done. This goes on the list, dear Lucas! Thank you!

  8. […] was originally scheduled to go live the day after Lucasz at Chemist In A Bottle but I didn’t want to tread on his beautiful post (follow the jump if you’d like to read […]

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