Later this year, in mid August, perfumer Francis Kurkdjian and his Maison will introduce their new fragrance to the perfume world. It will be named Aqua Vitae, water of life, of vitality and health.
Inspiration for this new perfume came to Francis Kurkdjian when he was in the Balearic Islands, on one of the afternoons spent on the tiny island of Formentera. He experienced there heat while riding a motorbike but the air was cooling his face. Life is the real muse of Aqua Vitae. It shows a perfect balance between feminine and masculine elements. While Aqua Universalis interacts best with fabrics you wear, Aqua Vitae is the scent that represents the attraction between two people, between “you and me.”
Maison Francis Kurkdjian Aqua Vitae starts with a gentle wave if citrus. The tranquil scent of tart and juicy notes. Calabrian lemon with its delicate bitterness and Sicilian mandarin gifted with a pleasant sweetness together make the perfect opening. Proportions are so harmonious that it’s impossible to point where lemon ends and mandarin begins. The feeling of Aqua Vitae is very soft and smooth from the beginning, from the moment of spraying it on skin.
After around 20 minutes the picture starts to change when the fragrant molecules of Aqua Vitae begin to interact with your own chemistry. The citrus quality from the opening becomes calmer, softer and more transparent when the perfume starts to shine with an inner glow. That is how a synthetic molecule of hedione works but fret not, it smells wonderfully light here. Hedione discovered in Firmenich laboratories is an aroma molecule carrying a smell similar to jasmine. The aroma is often described as citrus and floral. That’s how exactly it smells in Aqua Vitae – a subtle floral note with a citrus undertone. Pretty and beautiful with the effect of the rays of light beaming from the inside of the perfume.
Hedione is highly diffusive and has the ability to remain in the air for a while, creating a soft and luminous trail behind the wearer. As the time flies the light that is trying to escape from this perfume is slowly making the entire composition warmer. Close to the first hour mark this Maison Francis Kurkdjian fragrance evolves into soft and warm spicy blend. Tonka beans are a masculine element of the scent. Tonka has a cosy, warm and cuddly character. After some time it is joined by vanilla infusion – the element of femininity. It adds a light and custardy feeling to tonka. Together they smell like a cream fluff. The inner light is still here, constantly.
As Aqua Vitae dries down the woody notes come forth to get more attention. List of the notes says it’s gaiac wood (this is not an oud!) so let it be gaiac wood. The smell is balanced. One waft and I get a lot of warm, smooth woody accents, the other waft and something a little bit more resinous and darker reaches my nose. When I sniff my arm in a more greedy way I have a feeling like I herd with a sandalwood topped with some caramel sprinkles. When I focus I get the interesting vibe of a burnt wood, very delicate sensation.
Sillage of Aqua Vitae by Maison Francis Kurkdjian is moderate. The perfume is light. At the moment of applying it can radiate few inches from the skin surface but within 3-4 hours it just sits on your skin. It remains there for another 8 hours. On my skin the total longevity was like 12 hours, of which most of the time the perfume stayed close to me. To me that’s the quality of this perfume. Sometimes we all need a beautiful perfume only for us, that only close people might notice, don’t we? That’s exactly the kind of fragrance Aqua Vitae is. Soft, tender, like a second skin.
This fragrance will be available in 70 ml and 200 ml bottles. Concentration is eau de toilette.
A big thank you to Quality Perfumeries and Stanisława Missala at the front of them for sharing a sample of this beauty with me. I’ve never had a chance to review the perfume so early before the launch. I’m charmed by the elegance and beauty of Aqua Vitae, it might go on my wish list.