Monday Quick Sniffs, part 14

Time flies in the speed of light. Another month and a half passed since the previous installment. I will immediately remedy this state with a fresh portion of sometimes funny and silly mini reviews.

From the broadly valued French perfume and luxury leather & fabrics house of Hermes I recently got to try Brin de Reglisse. It was suggested to me by Undina many months ago and I recently got a chance to obtain a tiny sample in a swap. It’s one of the exclusive fragrances in Hermessence collection and at the moment the only one from this line that caught my attention. Other Jean-Claude Ellena doings for Hermes were not interesting to me. At the moment of applying Brin de Reglisse is a wonderful lavender perfume. This is the kind of lavender that I love – very dry, herbal with eventual green nuances. After just a few minutes the lavender becomes much sweeter because of the licorice. It has that specific smell of black licorice gum-candy but it’s not as pungent as I was unlucky to experience in some other scents. Believe me, the dense smell of licorice can we awful! 20 minutes into the development I detect the hay note – it’s dry, green, smells kind of grassy and I think coumarin is there too! Brin de Reglisse is extremely linear and simple. Too simple to be worth the money.

In 2012 Comme des Garcons launched a set of 3 fragrances in Play series. One of them that seemed quite suitable for me was Play Red. The first minute I wore it Play Red was an immediate burst of sweet mandarin orange but this note quickly faded. Right after it a sweet and spicy aroma of the cinnamon appeared. It was very gentle and not overdone. Pink pepper added more spiciness to the composition. When 20 minutes later the osmanthus accord appeared I really started to enjoy Play Red. The floral-fruity feeling it left on my skin was lovely. Later on I noticed some green crispiness of geranium and a funny note of juicy cherry. It was great and didn’t smell jammy. Some time later I got a waft of more balmy and resinous tones and a source of them was a tolu balm. At this level I smelled the additional dose of cinnamon. Finishing touch to Play Red was given by a sensual and spicy saffron (and synthetic safraleine) and a bit of myrrh I didn’t really detect. Quite a nice perfume but I don’t need it.

Launched in 2012 by Ulrich Lang is a perfume named Lightscape, that is classified as floral-aldehyde. On my skin it begins with a crispy smell of crushed violet leaves, some resinous nuances of galbanum and just a small hint of lemon juice. The overall impression is quite woody and it slowly evolves into something more powdery. The notes list says iris but I don’t get any iris in here. Violet leaf is too dominating to smell iris I think. Cashmere wood is refined and smooth here. When violet appears the whole perfume turns green plus it gains a hint of aldehyde quality. I don’t like this phase. Unfortunately it doesn’t get better with time. Lightscape turns musky in the artificial way thanks to ambrette and ambergris. There’s some delicate rosy feeling to it. In the drydown this Ulrich Lang scent gets ozonic and mainly floral and it’s not a good way to end up a perfume. Who wants a perfume that is ozonic for most of the time you have it on your skin? The longevity was miserable on my skin, Lightscape disappeared after 2-3 hours.

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16 thoughts on “Monday Quick Sniffs, part 14

  1. hajusuuri says:

    Hooray for Monday Quick Sniffs! Meh x 3. Great reviews, dear Lucas!

  2. Mary K says:

    There’s a sweet & spicy note in the Play Red that lasted a good amount of time on me. I couldn’t quite separate all of the notes as I had it on, but something did feel very pleasant. I didn’t mind all the ozone in Lightscape, but I think I like that kind of note more than many people do. I have not yet tried the Brin de Reglisse, but will do so when I come across it, just to see what it is like. Hope your week is going well, Lucas!

    • lucasai says:

      I think that cinnamon and pink peppers were the main ones behind this pleasant spiciness you mention.
      Glad to hear Lightscape appeals to you.
      Do try the Hermes. It is pretty simple and nothing groundbreaking but who will forbid you to try it, not me.

  3. Kafkaesque says:

    Oooooooooh, Play Red sounds right up my alley! Tolu Balsam and Saffron? Oranges and cinnamon? It’s got my name written all over it!

    The funny thing is, one of the CdG Red series caught my eye just last week while going through Surrender to Chance. But they’re three of them, and I can’t remember which one it was now. Regardless, I’m definitely adding Play Red to my list of things to try. Thank you, Lucas!

  4. sweetgrass79 says:

    Play Red sounds kinda nice. Brin de Reglisse seems like it might be interesting, but I don’t have the greatest track record with the Hermessences. I’ve tried three and haven’t been terribly impressed with any of them. I liked Osmanthe Yunnan the best of the three, but it didn’t last very long on me, definitely not enough to justify the price.

    • lucasai says:

      I admit that Hermessences are totally not my thing, I didn’t truly like any of those that I tried. Unlike you I didn’t like Osmanthe yunnan as well.

  5. Dearest Chemist
    Brin sounds the most interesting to me, though the lack of development sounds as though it could be a little disappointing.
    Just as an aside, is there nothing by Ellena for Hermes that you like?
    Yours ever
    The Perfumed Dandy

    • lucasai says:

      Hermessences for their lightness are not worth the price, and they’re so simple, too simple and boring to me.
      I don’t love a single Ellena fragrance for Hermes really.

      • Dearest Lucas
        I do know what you mean… if the Hermessences were priced a little more fairly, like Guerlain’s Aquas Allegoria they would be easier to both like and afford.
        I do enjoy Jardin Med, and must admit to having a soft spot for Voyage too. Though I my favourite Elllena work is from before is time with Hermes Eau de Campagne and first stand out.
        Still this ‘watercolour scents’ are always nice to try.
        Yours ever
        The Perfumed Dandy

        • lucasai says:

          If they prices were at a level of Aqua Allegorias, maybe I would like them more.
          I don’t really like Hermes doings this far and don’t find the “aquarell” Hermessences appealing

  6. Undina says:

    I’m glad you got to try Brin de Reglisse. I wouldn’t buy a FB of it but a 15 ml travel spray works great for me (so I liked the perfume enough to actually pay for it 🙂 )

    I do not like the bottle for Play Red so I’ll probably skip it. And I kind of liked Lightscape when I tried it but not enough to look for more: it’s not interesting enough for me to wear.

    • lucasai says:

      I’m glad for that too but just like other Hermessences it wasn’t really my thing which is actually good.

      I don’t like that red heart with eyes staring at me! Brrr…

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