Jovoy Paris is a luxurious niche perfumery placed at 4 Rue de Castiglione. It was founded in 1923 by Blanche Arvoy but just one year later she created a new house – Corday. In early 60’s of the previous century the brand reached its finale. After the years of absence Jovoy Paris returned. Since 2006 they successfully introduce new fragrances made by popular perfumers.
Ambre Premier, “The First Amber”, was brought to life in 2011 thanks to the work of Michelle Saramitot from Robertet. At Fragrantica it is classified as oriental vanilla fragrance, but that is not the way of perception I experienced smelling this perfume.
The moment I sprayed Jovoy Ambre Premier on my skin and when the first waft of the fragrance reached my nose I thought it smelled kind of mentholated, a little bit like and eucalyptus which was a background to something heavier and darker, that I would compare to oud as the closest similar aroma. The actual amber in this fragrance didn’t appear earlier than after 10 minutes.
When it appeared I thought it smelled quite nice. It was mildly resinous and there was something raw and woody to it. After a while the composition started to heat up when the mix of spices began to come out of the fragrance. I think I smelled pepper, nutmeg and coriander, as well as eventual hints of cinnamon and cardamom, although I’m not absolutely sure about the latter two. What I like about the spicy accords of Ambre Premier is that they’re not pungent and straightforward but toned down in a comfortable way. They wrap the wearer around creating not only warm, but also safe space around them. In the Winter, I would feel less cold in this fragrance.
At the mark of 30 minutes from the moment of putting the scent on my skin I noticed a marked change in the perfume. All the spices and amber somehow went to the 2nd plan while the lead in Ambre Premier was taken by the soft whisper of citrus notes. The smell was comparable to a cocktail, or a summer fruit punch and I felt quite amused that a perfume could change so much in just a couple of minutes. From warm, spiced amber to the light mix of lemons, oranges, grapefruits and limes? Why not, who said that a perfume can’t be done in such a contrasting manner?
Just a couple of minutes from the moment of citrus appearance the vanilla accord arrived. It was mellow, sweet in a good way, without a toothache feeling. Sure it had something gourmant on-board but it didn’t cause Ambre Premier to turn into a kitchen-made perfume. It somehow blended with the citrus so well that it made me think of the lemon-flavored whipped cream or meringue. That was quite an interesting feeling, to me it brought the more feminine element to the composition – good, because it was quite masculine so far.
The drydown brought another dramatic change in the smell of Jovoy Ambre Premier. This time it transformed from the slightly sweet meringue to the wilderness of a forest. When I smell my wrist after a couple more hours I have a feeling like I was taken to the dark woods, where somebody is burning leaves and pine cones. If that’s the patchouli then I will take it as it is because the feeling is actually quite sympathetic. Every other patchouli is better than the rotten roots and earth.
One saddening thing about the fragrant pyramid of Jovoy Ambre Premier is that I didn’t detect the rose and I was hoping to have it nicely done and in full bloom here. Too bad it didn’t work out but one can’t have everything they won’t as it would be too hard to chose the best one of a kind. Its concentration is eau de parfum, while the flacon is a available in two variants of 50ml and 100ml. Ambre 1er candle is also available.