Cracking fire, Jovoy Ambre Premier

Jovoy Paris is a luxurious niche perfumery placed at 4 Rue de Castiglione. It was founded in 1923 by Blanche Arvoy but just one year later she created a new house – Corday. In early 60’s of the previous century the brand reached its finale. After the years of absence Jovoy Paris returned. Since 2006 they successfully introduce new fragrances made by popular perfumers.

Ambre Premier, “The First Amber”, was brought to life in 2011 thanks to the work of Michelle Saramitot from Robertet. At Fragrantica it is classified as oriental vanilla fragrance, but that is not the way of perception I experienced smelling this perfume.

The moment I sprayed Jovoy Ambre Premier on my skin and when the first waft of the fragrance reached my nose I thought it smelled kind of mentholated, a little bit like and eucalyptus which was a background to something heavier and darker, that I would compare to oud as the closest similar aroma. The actual amber in this fragrance didn’t appear earlier than after 10 minutes.

When it appeared I thought it smelled quite nice. It was mildly resinous and there was something raw and woody to it. After a while the composition started to heat up when the mix of spices began to come out of the fragrance. I think I smelled pepper, nutmeg and coriander, as well as eventual hints of cinnamon and cardamom, although I’m not absolutely sure about the latter two. What I like about the spicy accords of Ambre Premier is that they’re not pungent and straightforward but toned down in a comfortable way. They wrap the wearer around creating not only warm, but also safe space around them. In the Winter, I would feel less cold in this fragrance.

At the mark of 30 minutes from the moment of putting the scent on my skin I noticed a marked change in the perfume. All the spices and amber somehow went to the 2nd plan while the lead in Ambre Premier was taken by the soft whisper of citrus notes. The smell was comparable to a cocktail, or a summer fruit punch and I felt quite amused that a perfume could change so much in just a couple of minutes. From warm, spiced amber to the light mix of lemons, oranges, grapefruits and limes? Why not, who said that a perfume can’t be done in such a contrasting manner?

Just a couple of minutes from the moment of citrus appearance the vanilla accord arrived. It was mellow, sweet in a good way, without a toothache feeling. Sure it had something gourmant on-board but it didn’t cause Ambre Premier to turn into a kitchen-made perfume. It somehow blended with the citrus so well that it made me think of the lemon-flavored whipped cream or meringue. That was quite an interesting feeling, to me it brought the more feminine element to the composition – good, because it was quite masculine so far.

The drydown brought another dramatic change in the smell of Jovoy Ambre Premier. This time it transformed from the slightly sweet meringue to the wilderness of a forest. When I smell my wrist after a couple more hours I have a feeling like I was taken to the dark woods, where somebody is burning leaves and pine cones. If that’s the patchouli then I will take it as it is because the feeling is actually quite sympathetic. Every other patchouli is better than the rotten roots and earth.

One saddening thing about the fragrant pyramid of Jovoy Ambre Premier is that I didn’t detect the rose and I was hoping to have it nicely done and in full bloom here. Too bad it didn’t work out but one can’t have everything they won’t as it would be too hard to chose the best one of a kind. Its concentration is eau de parfum, while the flacon is a available in two variants of 50ml and 100ml. Ambre 1er candle is also available.

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18 thoughts on “Cracking fire, Jovoy Ambre Premier

  1. Interesting that the citrus should appear after the amber, when usually the molecules that give rise to citrus notes are smaller and evaporate first. I’m curious as to how they achieved that effect…

    • lucasai says:

      Yep, citrus aromachemicals being the lightest should appear first on the skin. Maybe they arranged some chemical complexes to alter the molecules weight without changing the smell so that they evaporate later?

  2. Hey Buddy,
    Thanks for having an AMBER week, I’ve already made a new acquaintance. I love amber, especially because it’s winter down here. Perfect fit.
    Portia xx

    • lucasai says:

      Hello Portia!
      Readers chose amber, so I serve it 😉 Glad I could introduce you to the one you didn’t know. Here it’s still summer, but it’s getting more autumney every week.

  3. I had a hard time with this one. The notes didn’t seem to blend well leaving me feeling rather schizophrenic. This wasn’t a cuddly amber…although you make it more appealing than what I recall!

  4. Jordan River says:

    What an interesting unfolding. I wonder if the rose will remain hidden if you wear this another time. Rose and Amber were a tie when I voted. Thanks for serving this up.

  5. Kafkaesque says:

    Interesting. Hm, I don’t know about this one for me, but I liked certain parts that you describe.

    As a side note, my WordPress doesn’t seem to be working at all these days. For the last 3-4 days, I get notifications 24 hours after a post or comment goes up, sometimes longer or not at all. I didn’t get any message about your post, and only stopped by to see if you’d started your Amber Week. Perhaps others are having the same issue, so if you don’t see a lot of replies at first, that may be the cause. 🙂

    • lucasai says:

      You mean you’re not so sure if you like it. You prefer Ambra Aurea for sure!

      Thanks for letting me know about the WP issues. I’ve been having some problems too, some certain blogs often don’t appear in my reader the biggest problem being with Undina’s blog…

      • Kafkaesque says:

        I haven’t gotten any email notifications regarding posts from Undina’s blog. And no message about your latest post on Profumum either. It’s bad enough that they’ve screwed up the way links show up in drafts, without this latest thing too.

        Sorry for the off-topic, non-perfume related grumbling. I may need more coffee this morning. 🙂

        • lucasai says:

          I don’t use the email notofications, only the follows in the WP readers but Undina’s post don’t appear there most frequently. I need to check her out regularly and good she notices FB about her posts too!

          No problem for the off-topic, the situation makes me angry as well. Maybe it’s time to invest in BlogLovin’ account?

          • Undina says:

            You can also subscribe through e-mail – that part definitely works 😉

            In the recent couple of days I’ve noticed problems with WP as well. Mostly with logins and comments. They are probably updating something these days.

  6. hajusuuri says:

    Hello dear Lucas! Yes! the first Amber review from the Winnah of the Poll. I find it intriguing that the citrus appeared in the middle and not immediately upon application. I’ll seek this out and give it a try. I think Henri Bendel carries this line.

    • lucasai says:

      Hello sweetie! Did you have a good vacation? I hope to hear a little bit about it from my mailbox (yes, that’s a suggestion!) Happy you chose amber and it won.
      Yup, the citrus mashup was interesting, different.

  7. Undina says:

    Lucas, I like the review and if I ever come across this perfume I’ll give it a try but in general I wasn’t too impressed by Jovoy’s own line and since they didn’t feel like providing any samples of their line with my purchase of Bombay Bling I don’t really feel like spending any efforts on getting those samples otherwise 😉

    • lucasai says:

      Thanks for kind words. I know it is too bad they don’t offer carded samples. Mine are decanted too. Missala carries them since last month but only a couple of them, not the whole line

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