Treasure chest, Atelier Cologne Gold Leather

This season Atelier Cologne, French niche perfume brand specialising in colognes crafted in the modern and innovative way – Cologne Absolues, made one step further towards providing us new olfactory experience. The brand has introduced a new chapter and it’s called Collection Métal. This collection was inaugurated with two fragrances – one dedicated to leather and the other one to iris.

Gold Leather, as its name suggests, is a fragrance that contemplates a leathery chord in perfumery. This scent has a bright and boozy opening created with rum note (which actually smells more like cognac at first) with an additional flavor of bitter orange. Rum is a dominating aroma here, making orange just a background addition. Just 10 minutes later the golden shimmer of rum subsides making a place for two main ingredients of this Atelier Cologne.

Golden beverage turns black like tar when oud makes its entrance. I remember reading an interview with Jerome Epinette in which he stated he’ll never make a Cologne Absolue with lots of oud. Well, he didn’t keep his promise, but the creation he did, he did it right. Oud in Gold Leather is dark and dense. It’s much heavier than its hints in Rose Anonyme, but one doesn’t feel overwhelmed by it. It really is a great feeling to smell the density of the note and at the same time not feeling its weight.

5 minutes from the moment of the appearance of oud, 15 minutes since applying the perfume on skin the actual leather appears. It’s one of those unforgettable leathers that smell real, genuine, that are accompanied by the smell of chemical pigments used to tan it before a piece of this material will turn into a luxurious handbag or jacket. From this moment a leather accord is a dominating one, shining, muting all the other notes. What I really like about Gold Leather is the fact that it’s so fine and refined that it never develops a plastic vibe and it doesn’t give me a nose fatigue, while some other leathers do this to me.

Leather in this new Cologne Absolue is almost a solo player for the next half an hour and then it eventually slowly becomes more subtle. Then oud joins it again, but only for a short while before a plum accord emerges from the depth of the composition. Gold Leather has a nice plum accord. It makes the perfume a little bit more playful and laid back. It definitely smells ripe and at some points it evokes drier and more smoky feeling that perfectly fits the entire character of this fragrance.

My favorite part of Atelier Cologne Gold Leather happens close to the 3,5 hour mark when the fragrance gets closer to its drydown. At this point of development this perfume reveals the reason why it has a word gold in its name. Rum accord makes its return in more elegant, quiet yet mellow way. All its aspects are easier to notice now. The slight alcoholic vibe together with a lightly sweet smell of a sugar cane (used to make rum) bring warmth to the composition.

Later on, when it’s 240 minutes since I sprayed Gold Leather on my body, the perfume gets intensively red and mouth-watering. All because of the saffron that brings all its aromatic power and delicious smell into the perfume. It’s warm, it’s lightly spicy and lightly sweet at the same time. It reacts with all the senses and soothes them like a lullaby sung by someone with a soft voice. Many hours later the perfume smells kind of woody with hints of spices. After 12 hours, it disappears for good.

Gold Leather tells the story of a man who is content of his life, but still seeks fulfillment.

A man of such great power and charisma could have anything he asked. Despite it all, he could not have the only thing he really wanted. For the first time in his life, he had found the absolue woman and he was a better man for it. He would not let her go. Anything but that. He would trade all the gold in the world to be with her.

Perfumer Jerome Epinette was responsible for creating Gold Leather for Atelier Cologne. This perfume is created with the notes of bitter orange, saffron, rum, plum, eucalyptus, davana, fraction of gaiac wood and cedarwood, oud and leather accords. This fragrance contains 18% of perfume oils.

Gold Leather, one of the two creations introducing Collection Métal is an amazing perfume! It lasts all day (12 hours on me) and it has a decent sillage. Flacon of this scent is covered with genuine gold. The perfume itself will be available in two options: option 1 is a 100ml bottle, option 2 is a coffret of 200ml + 30ml petit flacon with a leather pouch. Lone 30ml won’t be offered in sale. Perfumed soap, as well as a candle scented with Gold Leather will be available.

[note] sample of Gold Leather was a gift from Atelier Cologne. Thank you Donatien!

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28 thoughts on “Treasure chest, Atelier Cologne Gold Leather

  1. Kafkaesque says:

    It sounds very pretty. I’m confused by one thing, though. You say that the drydown starts after 1.5 hours. So, the perfume stays in its final stage for the next 10,5 hours in the same, linear way? I’m not too sure I like the sound of that.

    I’ll be honest, I’m not sure Atelier is a brand for me. I did brief tests of 3 of its fragrances lately and found them to be quite synthetic in feel, more so even than Orange Sanguine after its gorgeous opening burst. I’ll test them again when I plan to do a proper, full review, but I was put off enough by what I smelled that I decided to postpone coverage for months until I could get motivated again. Mistral Patchouli, in particular, made me feel quite irritable. So, for Gold Leather, if it falls in my lap, I’ll try it, but I don’t think I’ll go out of my way to get samples.

    • lucasai says:

      Thanks! The numbers are a mistake! I was doing some adjustments on my phone yesterday evening, with a headache. Those 1,5 hours are actually 3,5 hours. Sounds better?

      Sorry to hear that you find Atelier Cologne not your style. The more I review the less we have in common. and I thought you liked Bois Blonds I sent you!?
      Mistral Patchouli was a bad choice for you because you love patchouli, and this fragrance is not a typical patchouli.

      I’m sorry.

      • Kafkaesque says:

        I haven’t tried Bois Blonds yet. 🙂 I almost never try a perfume unless I plan on reviewing it, but in this case, the results left me unwilling to go through with a review. I also tried Sous Le Toit and Rose Anonyme. I’m sorry, they didn’t work for me, and I know how much you love the last one. Please forgive me.

        • lucasai says:

          You haven’t?
          I always try the samples I get from friends or in a swap and then I decide if it’s worth a review, worth a quick sniff of worth nothing.
          How could I chose without smelling?
          I’m sorry you didn’t like Rose Anonyme, I love love it!
          Too bad our tastes are so very different.

          • Kafkaesque says:

            No, with a handful of rare exceptions, I never sniff anything until I have at least a solid 8 hours, minimum, to focus and analyze it. I don’t want to be impacted by hasty preconceptions or misimpressions from quick sniffs, or from having it on my skin while I do other things. In this case, I tested the three for quite a while, but ended up scrubbing them off. I’ll try them again in a few months, and maybe I’ll see things differently, although I doubt I’ll be able to get past the synthetics.

            The thing with our tastes is that you like very clean, fresh scents in many case, and my personal style is the exact opposite. I can see why you’d like the patchouli in Mistral Patchouli. I always knew our tastes were pretty much at different ends of the scale, so I wasn’t surprised. But it’s okay, you can tease me about my Serge Lutens, ambers, spice and resins, and I can tease you about your lemony clean scents, irises, and lavenders. It’s what makes things fun, sweetie! 🙂

            • lucasai says:

              When it was an Academic Year and I didn’t want to stop posting I sometimes took a sample with me, sprayed it on top of my hand in a train to Poznań and started sniffing. I liked this solutions on days when there were only lectures. When there were lab classes I didn’t try new things as I knew I will spill some acetone or other solvent on my hands.

              I know that we’re like totally different perfumistas but when someone enjoys at least a couple of perfumes that I do, I feel closer to them. In our case, the more you tell me you didn’t like what I did, I kind of feel like we’re getting farther from each other.
              I’m not going to tease anyone. I just wish some of our tastes would overlap

            • Kafkaesque says:

              Sweetie, you often tell me — in many of the reviews of fragrances that I like — that the fragrance in question didn’t work for you, or that you don’t like the line, or that you dislike a particular note I love. I don’t take perfume differences like that personally. I don’t feel further apart from you because you hate Serge Lutens almost across the board. You shouldn’t feel that way over Atelier. *hugs*

              Remember, we always have L’Artisan and By Kilian…. 😉 😀

            • lucasai says:

              I know, I know. If you didn’t tell me in the past to be honest while blogging there’d be a chance that I would reply to your reviews with words “sounds nice, will try if I can” instead of saying that I don’t like note/line.
              I’m younger, I look at things in a different way I think.

            • Kafkaesque says:

              I’m glad you’re honest, sweetie, and that you tell me what you think, to me and in your blog reviews! I’m just asking you not to be offended when I’m honest back. But I don’t want to take up your blog with all this and bore your other readers, so please just accept my apologies for saying something about Atelier.

            • lucasai says:

              Sorry it turned out that way. I wonder if there are some perfume brands we both love with more than just one perfume.

  2. jilliecat says:

    Seems rather classy – and probably a classy price to reflect this! I would love the candle for the cool autumn evenings. Whether I would like to wear it is another thing altogether …. I’m not so sure that I want to smell of rum (although I like drinking it!), and often have problems with fragrances that give off a boozy vibe. But I would definitely not mind smelling this in a candle.

  3. Jordan River says:

    Not sure about the booze in this cocktail leather. Keen to read your metallic iris though.

  4. Juraj says:

    The one I am really curios about is Oolang Infini, but this one looks great, too!!

    J.

  5. Tara says:

    I tried both the leather and the iris scents, they were pleasant, but I am really not a cologne person and I think Jerome Epinette is not my nose, if you know what I mean. My tastes run more to thick, spicy and syrupy orientals, like Serge Lutens and Kilian and some Micallefs. It was fun sniffing, but none of the Atelier line would be FBW for me, except possibly Sous le Toit since I am such a violet fan, if the price were lower.

    • lucasai says:

      I see, too bad you didn’t like them. Well, those scents are not colognes really. They might be inspired by traditional colognes but their concentration is EdP. I like what Jerome Epinette did for Atelier Cologne but he’s not my favorite perfumer for sure.
      Oh don’t tell me more, I hate Lutens Kilian and am ambivalent for Micallef.
      PS. Sous le Toit de Paris is gorgeous.

  6. Dionne says:

    I’ve got a 5ml decant of this slowly wending its way up to me via scent mule, so I haven’t tried it yet, but I’m looking forward to it. Leather and I don’t always get along, but the rum/saffron/cedarwood bits are right up my alley, so I figured I’d take a chance since it’s coming with Silver Iris, and I’m just a big iris ‘ho. The other Atelier I really enjoy is Vanille Insensée, which was only one of two frags thus far this year that I feel head-over-heels for.

    • lucasai says:

      Great that you have a scent mule who will help you in getting Silver Iris and Gold Leather. I hope you like them both. I’m not much in to leather but it sometimes works for me. Silver Iris will be mine soon!
      My mum has a bottle of Vanille Insensee.

  7. hajusuuri says:

    I can’t wait to try Gold Leather and Silver Iris, sweetie. In fact, since I am thinking of buying a vat of Sous le toit de Paris, I may just take a trip to the Atelier Cologne boutique on Elizabeth Street! I was looking through my samples to see which ones I can swap and/or give away and I found 5 mLs of Oolang Infini! I definitely loved the soap but when I tried Oolang Infini in-store back in January, I couldn’t smell a thing! I shall have to try it soon to see if I’ll keep it or swap it away.

    • lucasai says:

      Great! I’m sure you’ll like them, especially Silver Iris (It will be MINEEE!) You have a petit flacon of sous le Toit de Paris, right? and now you’re deciding on blig bottle?
      I didn’t like Oolanf Infini. Its tea note turned very sweaty on me.

  8. I just tested Gold Leather today, and I’m really enjoying it. It actually kind of reminds me of Lubin Idole, but with a stronger tobacco/leather note. I think it’s the rum/saffron that’s making me think of Idole. A decant might be in my future.

  9. […] OTHERS ARE SAYING ABOUT GOLD LEATHER: Chemist in a Bottle, Scents of Self, Men’s […]

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