Monday Quick Sniffs, part 15

It’s good to be back home from Warsaw. And it’s good to be back with the Monday Quick Sniffs, which had a 2-months-long hiatus. How could I neglect them so much during summer? I’m sorry!

Vive la Mariee is the newest fragrance from Les Parfums de Rosine, a perfume house specialising in rose-centric perfumes. It starts with a creamy lactonic peach accord that gains a vanilla sweetness just a few minutes after spraying. Rose in this specified composition is very light and pale, dewy and watery, it doesn’t have a rich and opulent redness that I love. Later on it turns fruity-floral when I start to smell lychee, combined with jasmine and orange blossom. Freesia adds more creaminess to Vive la Mariee but it turns more gourmand with time. Fluffy musk is a base and over it one can smell a chocolate sweetness of a praline. There’s also some neroli. Other notes include tonka, sandalwood, magnolia, peony. I wasn’t really wowed by this fragrance. Maybe because it’s too feminine to me. I can see a bride wearing Vive la Mariee on her wedding day. The perfume was created by Benoit Lapouza. The bottle is painted with white lacquer and there’s a white thingy attached to the cap, I guess it was supposed to remind of bride’s veil.

Perfumes from the Germany-based house of Biehl Parfumkunstwerke are not something that I’ve been looking forward to sniff really. But I won a sample of newest gs03 at Fragrantica, so I gave it a try since it landed at my doorstep. On my this scent opens with a blast of metallic juniper berries. They’re pungent and very aromatic but I don’t like this vibe in perfumery. After a few minutes I could detect a faint and citrusy neroli scent mixed with mandarin orange and then… I scream… What have you done mister Geza Schoen!? Gs03 starts to reek of Iso E Super in it’s most vile and chemical form! All I can smell is laboratory and artificial woodiness of this aroma compound. Mister Schoen is famous for his love for laboratory aromachemicals but to make something like that? Shame on you! I rushed over to the bathroom to wash that thing off my skin. That’s enough of a Quick Sniff for you, gs03!

Mystic Oud is the latest addition to the line of Historiae brand. This house is not widely known and this far they focused on creating floral scents. Deciding on making an oud fragrance was a bold decision for them but it really paid off. The opening is bright and aldehydic with a prominent and opulent rose accord. It’s a rose with dark petals, a huge and mysterious flower. It’s oriental character is amplified with warm and spicy saffron and cloves, as well as geranium and davana. Mystic Oud is a perfect example of oud done right. Oud is perfectly visible in this composition but at the same time it’s luminous, transparent and airy, not reminding of dense and thick black resins. The drydown of it is voluptuous and animalic. Vanilla entwine with benzoin for a balmy effect, amber, castoreum and sandalwood seamlessly evolve one into another. Myrrh is smoky and slightly salty in here. Mystic Oud was launched this year and a perfumer behind it is famous Bertrand Duchaufour.

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10 thoughts on “Monday Quick Sniffs, part 15

  1. Jordan River says:

    Do you say Mystic Oud by Duchaufour? How did I miss that? Thank you for the information. Not sure if I will like a transparent airy Oud but salty Myrrh in the mix has me excited. Lucas, you are ahead of Basenotes and Fragrantica. I will call you Lucanotes! Or Lucatica. Just kidding, I love your name The Chemist in the Bottle.

  2. Undina says:

    I’m curious about Vive la Mariee: not that I expect to love it but I have warm feelings towards that brand. And I completely agree with you on gs03: as much as I like Iso E Super I think it has to stop at some point.

  3. hajusuuri says:

    I’ve missed Monday Quick Sniffs! Vive le Mariee and Mystic Oud sound try-worthy!

    By the way, the white thingy is “tulle” 🙂 and it does remind one of a bride’s veil. One my favorite shows, because it is so silly, is “Say Yes to the Dress” where brides-to-be go to a bridal salon in NYC (or Atlanta, Georgia), with an entourage of mothers, sisters, aunts, best guy/gal buddies, future in-laws, children (!), fathers, even the groom-to-be, try on dresses and get reactions from, well, their opinionated entourage. On a recent episode, this woman named her three children after perfume – Anais, Klein (I think) and I don’t recall the 3rd one.

    • lucasai says:

      I know, that’s why I’m sorry for abandoning them for so long. Do try these two.
      Thanks for explaining about tulle, another lesson learned.
      That show sounds funny

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