Time for another portion of the Quick Sniffs. Here’s a couple of things that I recently got in a swap.
The idea of creating perfumes inspired by the elements from the Periodic Table really speaks to me as a chemist. That’s why I was pretty excited to finally try a scent from the Nu_Be line. I started by exploration of this house with Carbon [6C]. The opening is a lovely warm spicy blend of pepper combined with slightly fresh-spicy aroma of cardamom. The mixture heats up in a few minutes slowly turning into a sandalwood accord. It’s creamy and mellow. There’s also some balsamic quality to it. After 40 minutes I was 100% sure that sandalwood is a synthetic here. Later I could smell some delicately powdery iris mixed with ginger what introduced a woody element to this stage. The drydown was resinous and bright, slightly sweet (honey?) with green undertones appearing here and there. Generally speaking Nu_Be Carbon [6C] is a lovely perfume, it’s longevity is around 6-8 hours but… it’s sillage is a disaster. Even immediately after spraying the perfume stays very close to the skin. Nu_Be is an Italian brand, fragrances are eau de parfums. The packaging is a Styrofoam casing! Would love to discover another scents from this line. 2012 launch.
French niche fragrance brand, Parfums de Marly introduced a perfume called Herod in 2012. From the very beginning it emanates very mild but rich smell of tobacco leaves. It’s a little bit smoky, chewy and narcotic. After 20 minutes vanilla joins the composition making the “pipe accord” sweeter, more creamy and sensual. Touch of cinnamon brings more fiery spiciness to the composition. A while later I get the smell of osmanthus flowers. It doesn’t give a floral smell, it’s rather juicy and evoking the scent of rum with osmanthus infusion. Incense and labdanum make it for a smoky stage and a prelude to the woody (and slightly sweaty) smell of cedar and vetiver. I swear that after couple of hours Herod smelled to me like a drydown of Van Cleef & Arpels Bois d’Iris. It smelled of salty driftwood. Late stage of this composition was spicy and warm because of the pepper and a little bit of cypriol oil. The composition also mentions the presence of Iso E Super. I think Herod is a nice perfume. It has a decent longevity (8-10 hours) but it could have better sillage. The perfumer standing behind this Parfums de Marly scent is Olivier Pescheux.
“A fire broke out in the Curling Bros. barbershop in Westlake, N.Y. in 1891. All the shaving tonics with their spearmint, lime, vanilla&lavender burned. A charred bottle was found half-full. It smelled like this.” – says the short story behind D.S & Durga Burning Barbershop. This perfume is made mainly with lavender but it doesn’t smell of it at all. The opening stage has an antiseptic, rubbing alcohol, lysol-like smell. After a couple of minutes it transforms into a smoky perfume that to me smells of a smoked ham, or should I say over-smoked ham. Lime is juicy here but it has a sharp, acidic smell loaded with acridness. There’s also a hint of vanilla and mint that really evoke the barbershop feeling of al the shaving creams, lotions. I don’t know how long does it stay on the skin or how’s its sillage. I just couldn’t bear the aroma of Burning Barbershop and had to scrub it after 1 hour. My bad! Not ashamed at all…