Liquid gold, Prada Infusion d’Iris Absolue

You all should already know that Prada is on the top of my favorite perfume houses list and there are quite a few things I owe them. Sometimes I wish they knew what a big fan they have out there in me. On other days I contemplate asking myself a question – where would I be today if I didn’t meet Prada back in 2006. Would I get into perfumery without it, would this blog even exist then?

In 2012 Prada launched the perfume named Infusion d’Iris Eau de Parfum Absolue. It was a flanker to Infusion d’Iris EdP from 2007. As much as I consider flankers a bad thing – Prada proves that flankers can sometimes be better than their predecessor and this variation on the iris theme by Prada is the best example of that. What was crafted really surpassed my expectations.

Prada Infusion d’Iris Absolue opens on my skin with a full-bodied and voluptuous iris accord. Unlike previous fragrances in Infusion d’Iris line I don’t get much of a clean powderness from this one. Instead the iris I smell is soft and creamy, with a distinguished buttery facet that after a while starts to veer slightly in the carrot direction. However it never feels like a rotten dead vegetable.

15 minutes later the entire composition becomes more balmy and oriental at the moment when benzoin enters the composition. In Infusion d’Iris Absolue it feels material, substantial but at the same time it’s very airy and subtle. Many perfumes scare me because of their cloying benzoin. This Prada is a total opposite of them. After a while longer the vanilla joins the composition.

Vanilla accord in the golden Prada is interesting. To me it has a zero level of gourmand qualities. It’s more like it’s fresh, translucent. Moreover, when tonka bean appears on my skin, Prada Infusion d’Iris Absolue starts to remind me of Serge Lutens Fourreau Noir at some point. Of couse this variation of vanilla plus tonka mix is much more subtle and not as warm or enveloping as in Serge Lutens perfume. Lentisque adds some Mediterranean spirit to the composition and somehow make the other notes shine. Here, at this moment I started to notice that iris is getting more powdery now, slightly reminding me of pressed face powders.

I find the drydown of Infusion d’Iris Absolue to have a calming effect on me. The harmonious smell of orange flower, combined with pure neroli and huge clouds of fluffy musk make me feel extremely comfortable, no matter where I am. I just want to sit on something soft, close my eyes and travel to Dreamland, where perfume grow on trees and clouds are made of candy floss.

I love Prada Infusion d’Iris Absolue. Why? Because it’s Prada (duh!) and because Daniela Roche-Andrier made it and she’s definitely my favorite perfumer so far. There are just a couple of things about this golden-colored Prada that bother me a little. For the first time in my life a Prada scent doesn’t want to stay on my skin. Infusion d’Iris Absolue is gone in 4 hours when I use my regular number of sprays. But I don’t mind it actually, because those four hours are divine. I could re-apply but I don’t like to. Can you imagine me in the lab and disappearing in the hidden corner to spray some perfume? That’s a hillarious scene. Also, Infusion d’Iris Absolue is quite intimate scent, lets consider it a good thing. I prefer fragrance to be my personal pleasure, not something for the crowd.

All in all Infusion d’Iris Absolue by Prada is a magnificent perfume. It’s just another fragrance from the fashion house that doesn’t disappoint. It smells extremely refined and elegant. Kind of glamorous too. Maybe it doesn’t last on my skin for as long as other Prada fragrances do, but I give it my absolution. I’m very used to my Amber Pour Homme and Infusion d’Homme – maybe this is the reason why Infusion d’Iris Absolue doesn’t feel “mine” from the very first whiff. I would be happy if someone gifted me with it, in other case, a larger decant will keep me satisfied.

Prada Infusion d’Iris Absolue is available in flacons of 50ml and 100ml. The bottle design remains the same as for all other fragrances in Infusion family. It’s the details that matter here. The perfume is tinged with gold-ish dye, the front emblem with Prada logo is golden too, as well as the cap, wrapped with a shiny textured paper of the same color. Concentration is eau de parfum.

I’d like to dedicate this review to Hajusuuri, for this is the perfume that gave a start to a lovely fragrance twin bond that we share since then, supporting and sharing perfume love with each other.

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32 thoughts on “Liquid gold, Prada Infusion d’Iris Absolue

  1. Jordan River says:

    From Prada to Hajusuuri. All good company.

  2. Lovely review and it’s made me want to try this. I’ve never tried a Prada perfume so I’m going to rectify that this week. Quite a few bloggers like the iris original so I’ll have a try of these two. The only other irises I’ve tried are the Lutens and the Atelier Cologne which are poles apart. So I imagine this falls somewhat in the middle of those two extremes. Would that be a fair guess?

    • lucasai says:

      Thank you! Really, you haven’t tried a single scent from Prada? You should give them a try.
      Infusion d’Iris EDP is a modern classic. Absolue is a fine take on it.
      Iris Silver Mist and Silver Iris are so totally different. Yes, Prada Irises would be somewhere in the middle, or closer to Atelier Cologne.

  3. jilliecat says:

    You made such a good point in this review: the perfume you love is actually a form of aromatherapy. Wonderful notes, especially when they are from real essential oils, have the power to make you feel good/calm/energised etc. Wearing something that makes you happy is aromatherapy, just without the massage!

    • lucasai says:

      Thanks Jillie! Actually I find most of my scents to have calming and relaxing properties of me, so they really can be treated like the objects of self-indulgent and aromatherapy. Perfumatherapy πŸ˜€

  4. Maria Ho says:

    The Id’I Absolue is my favourite iris scent and one of my top five favourites. I love the combination of the pronounced iris and its warm and golden (just as you say :)) surroundings.
    It doesn’t seem to have been a hit here in Sweden though, it’s already gone from the shelves in our most upscale department store here in Stockholm.

  5. Annina says:

    Oh, I’ve been dying to try this! I adore the original Infusion. It sounds gorgeous!

  6. Jenny says:

    What a great way to start my Monday morning with your review. This was my favorite scent of last year — and I’ve been waiting to bring it out now that fall and cooler weather has arrived. so here I am today join you in dreamland on this one — so much so that I fear it will be hard for me to work today. Also, like you — I find it doesn’t stay on my skin long enough — unlike you, I admit to being the crazy lady who carries her bottle to work and re-spritzes later in the afternoon — easy to do as I work in the arts, people except a bit of eccentricity.
    I haven’t smelled the carrot as you can — but the creaminess and earthiness quality just about sums it up. It makes me feel so regal. I think I might just be your older soul sister in scent– thanks again for the post — and keep up the chemistry-focused articles. My latent interest in chemistry enjoys them.

    • lucasai says:

      Hi Jenny!
      So great to meet people who like Infusion d’Iris Absolue and actually found it to be their favorite scent for some time. Happy you’re joining me with the golden shine of Absolue. The carroty vibe in my case was very suble and didn’t last for long. It was probably result of some other notes overlaying.
      It’s definitely easier to get the chance to re-apply a perfume when you’re an artist rather than a chemist.
      I’m planning to continue the chemistry series. Just didn’t feel like doing a science post lately.

  7. Dionne says:

    Lukas, I’ll join in that Prada appreciation. I’ve got a massive bottle of the original Id’I, and it’s in my top three irises, but I still haven’t done a major exploration of the Absolue version – in fact, I’m interested in a three-way throwdown between the EDP, EDT and Absolue.

    • lucasai says:

      Thanks Dionne, you’re welcome to the party.
      I have a FB of Infusion d’Homme and it’s my most masculine iris I think. Wow, top 3 irises it very high!
      Many people seem to have missed the opportunity to try the Absolue version. Maybe it’s because it wasn’t so loud about it as about Id’I EdP. It would be very interesting to compare them all together. EdP, EdT, Absolue. Even Infusion d’Iris l’Eau d’Iris could join.

      • Dionne says:

        Oh yeah, I forgot about that one!

        • lucasai says:

          Have you tried that Infusion d’Iris l’Eau d’Iris? I haven’t. Just like Absolue it was never available in Poland

          • Dionne says:

            I’ll have to go looking for it, as I haven’t seen it yet. But then, I don’t much bother with mainstream perfumery, with the exception of some of the Pradas and a few others, most of it does not get along with my skin, so I may just have missed it.

            • lucasai says:

              I tried to sniff that spring/summer Prada flanker but it didn’t appear in Poland at all. I only see a couple of them available in online stores.
              From mainstream I’m truly only into Prada.

  8. hajusuuri says:

    Thanks for the dedication, dearest Lucas. You described Absolue so perfectly. It lasts on me just a little bit longer, about 6 hours, but what a glorious 6 hours! I’ll probably douse myself in it this entire week :-), well, except today (SOTD Bvlgari Black). As you know, I love my iris and so I shocked my Nordstrom SA when I asked for the LARGEST bottle available (100mLs). Absolue and Iris Poudre are the two in my collection where I purposely bought the largest size.

    As to an EDT, EDP and Absolue (and yes L’eau) throwdown, I just need to find a sample of the EDT and then I will do and report back!

    • Undina says:

      Let me know if you can’t find a sample of EdT – I have a spare one.

    • lucasai says:

      You’re welcome sweetest! I’m happy you agree with my description. Absolue is just a pure pleasure so maybe it was supposed to last shorter so that we don’t become pure hedonists, what you think?
      I’m sure this bottle looks stunning in real, Absolue and L’Eau never appeared in the Polish market.
      You have an exquisite nose for iris my dear!
      Iris Poudre. I have a sample, will have to wear it one day and then maybe review it.

  9. Undina says:

    Lucas, you made me curious now πŸ™‚ The next time I work from home I’ll try the original EdP and Absolue in parallel. Last time I tried Absolue it didn’t seem that different from the original but maybe if I try them at the same time?
    EdP usually lives on my skin until the next shower so it will be interesting to compare.

    • lucasai says:

      Good Undina! Curiosity is fine!
      To me EdP and Absolue do smell different, or maybe it’s been too long since I smelled Infusion d’Iris in EdP? I don’t know.
      I will be curious to hear your thoughts after side by side tests.
      EdP lasts forever πŸ˜‰ So does Infusion d’Homme.

      • Undina says:

        Ok, I’m back to report.
        Absolue starts much softer, warmer and more butter-y on my skin than the original, then a couple of hours later – even though they are still slightly different – I’m not sure the difference is big enough to justify having them both in the collection and then Absolue starts whispering and keeps doing it for a long time – while EdP is still very present. I liked Absolue and if it weren’t for ~25 ml of the original EdP left in my bottle, I would be going for the bottle of Absolue. It’s a very nice perfume.

        • lucasai says:

          Thank you dearest for that.
          I totally agree with your judgement. Absolue is soft and buttery, more subtle. When it fades away, EDP is still strong. I find Absolue and edp to be different, but I don’t place Absolue higher than Infusion d’homme which I adore

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