You all should already know that Prada is on the top of my favorite perfume houses list and there are quite a few things I owe them. Sometimes I wish they knew what a big fan they have out there in me. On other days I contemplate asking myself a question – where would I be today if I didn’t meet Prada back in 2006. Would I get into perfumery without it, would this blog even exist then?
In 2012 Prada launched the perfume named Infusion d’Iris Eau de Parfum Absolue. It was a flanker to Infusion d’Iris EdP from 2007. As much as I consider flankers a bad thing – Prada proves that flankers can sometimes be better than their predecessor and this variation on the iris theme by Prada is the best example of that. What was crafted really surpassed my expectations.
Prada Infusion d’Iris Absolue opens on my skin with a full-bodied and voluptuous iris accord. Unlike previous fragrances in Infusion d’Iris line I don’t get much of a clean powderness from this one. Instead the iris I smell is soft and creamy, with a distinguished buttery facet that after a while starts to veer slightly in the carrot direction. However it never feels like a rotten dead vegetable.
15 minutes later the entire composition becomes more balmy and oriental at the moment when benzoin enters the composition. In Infusion d’Iris Absolue it feels material, substantial but at the same time it’s very airy and subtle. Many perfumes scare me because of their cloying benzoin. This Prada is a total opposite of them. After a while longer the vanilla joins the composition.
Vanilla accord in the golden Prada is interesting. To me it has a zero level of gourmand qualities. It’s more like it’s fresh, translucent. Moreover, when tonka bean appears on my skin, Prada Infusion d’Iris Absolue starts to remind me of Serge Lutens Fourreau Noir at some point. Of couse this variation of vanilla plus tonka mix is much more subtle and not as warm or enveloping as in Serge Lutens perfume. Lentisque adds some Mediterranean spirit to the composition and somehow make the other notes shine. Here, at this moment I started to notice that iris is getting more powdery now, slightly reminding me of pressed face powders.
I find the drydown of Infusion d’Iris Absolue to have a calming effect on me. The harmonious smell of orange flower, combined with pure neroli and huge clouds of fluffy musk make me feel extremely comfortable, no matter where I am. I just want to sit on something soft, close my eyes and travel to Dreamland, where perfume grow on trees and clouds are made of candy floss.
I love Prada Infusion d’Iris Absolue. Why? Because it’s Prada (duh!) and because Daniela Roche-Andrier made it and she’s definitely my favorite perfumer so far. There are just a couple of things about this golden-colored Prada that bother me a little. For the first time in my life a Prada scent doesn’t want to stay on my skin. Infusion d’Iris Absolue is gone in 4 hours when I use my regular number of sprays. But I don’t mind it actually, because those four hours are divine. I could re-apply but I don’t like to. Can you imagine me in the lab and disappearing in the hidden corner to spray some perfume? That’s a hillarious scene. Also, Infusion d’Iris Absolue is quite intimate scent, lets consider it a good thing. I prefer fragrance to be my personal pleasure, not something for the crowd.
All in all Infusion d’Iris Absolue by Prada is a magnificent perfume. It’s just another fragrance from the fashion house that doesn’t disappoint. It smells extremely refined and elegant. Kind of glamorous too. Maybe it doesn’t last on my skin for as long as other Prada fragrances do, but I give it my absolution. I’m very used to my Amber Pour Homme and Infusion d’Homme – maybe this is the reason why Infusion d’Iris Absolue doesn’t feel “mine” from the very first whiff. I would be happy if someone gifted me with it, in other case, a larger decant will keep me satisfied.
Prada Infusion d’Iris Absolue is available in flacons of 50ml and 100ml. The bottle design remains the same as for all other fragrances in Infusion family. It’s the details that matter here. The perfume is tinged with gold-ish dye, the front emblem with Prada logo is golden too, as well as the cap, wrapped with a shiny textured paper of the same color. Concentration is eau de parfum.
I’d like to dedicate this review to Hajusuuri, for this is the perfume that gave a start to a lovely fragrance twin bond that we share since then, supporting and sharing perfume love with each other.