In the perfume world there are some concepts that seem to be more or less appealing. Recently I stumbled upon the idea brought by Fragrance Republic. In practise it is a fragrance forum, to which you have to sign up to be able to use it. But it’s not as ordinary as it seems. In October Fragrance Republic started a collaboration with various perfumers to launch a new perfume each month.
You’re able to purchase these fragrances after you create an account. There are 3 levels of profiles. “Freepeoples” doesn’t cost you anything and gives you basic access to read the forum (but not to post on it?) “Patricians” for 29$ monthly receive a free 15ml bottle of each new scent, they can also post on the forum and get invitation to some events. Paying 1500$ a year gives you a “Senator” status, full access to the forum, free entry to the perfume conferences, new launches etc plus one of a kind chance to submit your story that might result in you meeting the perfumer to create a fragrance inspired by your tale.
At the moment there are 6 perfumes known and they’ll be consecutively launched each month during half a year period. The first perfume that was released in October is Iris Safran, created by a perfumer Natalie Feisthauer. As a perfumer says it, she wanted to “honor the iris, specifically the concrete of Iris Pallida Florentina”. Curious to check how it smells, I’m spraying some on my arm.
FR! 01/01 Iris Safran starts with a burst of juicy and slightly acidic bergamot that after a couple of minutes becomes more subtle and makes place for a pear accord. This specific note smells very light and fresh, kind of dewy and watery in fact. After 30 minutes I begin to smell the actual iris and it’s weird. It doesn’t have the powdery feeling and it also doesn’t smell rooty, carroty or buttery. It’s… floral! Maybe lily of the valley is so strong that iris didn’t have a chance to mark its presence. That might be it!
Instead of iris I can smell a lot of sheer and delicate florals, slightly cold and reminiscent of clean bed sheets. Later on I get a very subtle spiciness of saffron. Too bad it’s not a hot, jammy saffron, but something much more airy, delicate than Safran Troublant or Safran Nobile.
Drydown of Iris Safran comes after 3-4 hours and it has a strong accent on ambrette seeds. It smells mellow, kind of creamy with a slightly sour feeling about it (sour yoghurt anyone?) Later on the composition starts to effuse the musky notes – sheer, clean and fluffy. To balance the overal fresh and clean feeling of this stage Natalie Feisthauer added some vetiver that brings slightly woody and rooty feeling with hints of earthy, dirty quality of a damp soil. For this moment I treat Iris Safran more like a perfume curiosity rather than actual fragrance. It slightly lacks the complexity as well as lasting power (disappeared after 5 hours).
I think that Fragrance Republic is a great solution for those who are just beginning their perfume adventure and want to experience the perfume notes in more simplified version before they’ll be ready to grab something of serious complexity.
Iris Safran is available in 15ml mini bottle and in 75ml bottles of eau de parfum. They cost 45$ & 95$ respectively. For more information check out Fragrance Republic website.
[note] mini bottle of Iris Safran was provided by Beauty Enterprise, a representative of FR! Pictures used in this review are my property. All rights reserved.