There’s one basic value to all the independent perfume projects. They don’t have to stick to a limited budget which means they can use the top quality materials to bring the most luxurious olfactory experience to our noses. This very statement applies to Neela Vermeire. Those of you who read my earlier reviews of Bombay Bling, Mohur or Ashoka don’t need a special introduction of her profile.
In 2012, Neela Vermeire, who is a lawyer with social sciences knowledge, created a niche perfume brand in Paris and called it Neela Vermeire Creations. The first Franco-Indian fragrance house was established. 3 perfumes were launched at first, all dedicated to India. I already talked about two of them and today is the day to complete the My India Trio with a review of Trayee.
At the beginning it’s worth to mention that Trayee is supposed to be pronounced as “Try-ee” and means “The Triad.” It refers to the origin of Rig, Yajur and Sama, those being the canonical texts of Hinduism. These scripts are also known as the Vedas. NVC Trayee first impression is spicy and warm. It smells of fresh ginger that tingle with a delicate sour sensation of the lemon peel. In 10 minutes it develops a spiritual character when the incense accord graciously appears on my skin.
It feels substantial and airy at the same time. I have no doubts that I smell the real, smoky incense, that leaves a silver mist behind as it burns. You can almost touch the altar of burning incense sticks, but the swirls and curtains of incense smoke hide it from you and it’s out of your reach. One moment, in the early stage of Trayee development, the aroma turns comforting and very enveloping.
Sandalwood in Neela Vermeire Creations Trayee is a real thing. Neela done her best to use real, natural essences instead of cheaper equivalents obtained in fragrance laboratories. I praise her for that because none of the aromachemicals, even the best ones, can truly evoke the feeling of real sandalwood. I find the note in Trayee to be soft, delicate and creamy. It has a lovely smoothness with hints of buttery nuances. The whole thing feels comfortable and easy to wear.
After some time, in my case it was after 60 minutes or so, the smoky-creamy mixture of sandalwood and incense evolved into something more balsamic. Trayee starts to smell of myrrh. To my luck it doesn’t smell of burnt plastic but it smells of pure resin with spicy undertones as a company. Very enjoyable. I think that the spicy part comes from cardamom – I could smell its stronger aura few minutes later. Again it reminded me slightly of roasted nuts. Cinnamon on the other hand was hot and aromatic like freshly baked cinnamon buns. For the next couple of hours the perfume was changing its form by juggling with the perfume notes that appeared this far. A new change arrived close to the 3rd hours since the moment I applied few perfume drops on my skin.
That’s when I started to smell saffron. This precious and very expensive material brought a plush, velvet quality to Trayee making it incredibly sensual and dare I say sexy. And I swear I smelled the rose in here! Then agarwood appeared along with elemi and together they introduced a heavier vibe to the scent but the entire composition still remained harmonious, not overpowering.
Another two hours allowed the heavier perfume molecules to start floating higher. So I smelled a happy aroma of black currant combined with a green and herbal smell of basil. Trayee also developed a woody facet created with a use of ingredients such as cedar and vetiver. After some time I noticed how this NVC perfume becomes lighter with every hour.
Drydown notes started to appear on my skin not earlier than at the mark of 7-8 hours. First was the beautiful and shiny amber accord, really soft and noble. After some time it gained a voluptuous floral character thanks to jasmine. It was magnificent, filled with white flowers in full bloom. Then Trayee began to smell of sweet cloves with a delicate touch of powdery vanilla. There was also a small dose of oak moss that brought to life a chypre feeling from the depth of this Neela Vermeire fragrance. And it lasted and lasted on me, like a never-ending story that has a happy ending that brings tears to our eyes.
I must confess that when I sampled Trayee for the first time I thought it was too much for me. Maybe because I tried it when it was really warm outside? The other day when I was browsing through the samples I grabbed Trayee and thought I’d give it a try now, in the Autumn weather.
The verdict? It’s perfect now, really fits the aura of this season with all these perfume notes. I even planned to call it a “Queen of autumn leaves” for this review but the phrase was too long for the title to fit in one line. But zen says it all as well because I find Trayee to be contemplative and harmonious composition. Cold weather allows it to show the full potential.
NVC Trayee is an eau de parfum created by Bertrand Duchaufour. Originally it was launched in 55ml column bottle. This year, right before Pitti, the packaging was changed for a one designed by Pierre Dinand. The new flacon is slightly bigger (60ml) and has 24 ridges that match the Neela Vermeire Creations logo on the cap. This perfume offers moderate sillage and +12 hours longevity.
[note] sample was a courtesy of Neela Vermeire. 1st photo: from NVC press materials, 2nd and 3rd photos are from NVC Facebook profile and credit for them goes to NEROLI Luxus Parfüméria. Pictures were taken by M. Tassy and she’s the owner of them.