Zen of mind, Neela Vermeire Creations Trayee

There’s one basic value to all the independent perfume projects. They don’t have to stick to a limited budget which means they can use the top quality materials to bring the most luxurious olfactory experience to our noses. This very statement applies to Neela Vermeire. Those of you who read my earlier reviews of Bombay Bling, Mohur or Ashoka don’t need a special introduction of her profile.

In 2012, Neela Vermeire, who is a lawyer with social sciences knowledge, created a niche perfume brand in Paris and called it Neela Vermeire Creations. The first Franco-Indian fragrance house was established. 3 perfumes were launched at first, all dedicated to India. I already talked about two of them and today is the day to complete the My India Trio with a review of Trayee.

At the beginning it’s worth to mention that Trayee is supposed to be pronounced as “Try-ee” and means “The Triad.” It refers to the origin of Rig, Yajur and Sama, those being the canonical texts of Hinduism. These scripts are also known as the Vedas. NVC Trayee first impression is spicy and warm. It smells of fresh ginger that tingle with a delicate sour sensation of the lemon peel. In 10 minutes it develops a spiritual character when the incense accord graciously appears on my skin.

It feels substantial and airy at the same time. I have no doubts that I smell the real, smoky incense, that leaves a silver mist behind as it burns. You can almost touch the altar of burning incense sticks, but the swirls and curtains of incense smoke hide it from you and it’s out of your reach. One moment, in the early stage of Trayee development, the aroma turns comforting and very enveloping.

Sandalwood in Neela Vermeire Creations Trayee is a real thing. Neela done her best to use real, natural essences instead of cheaper equivalents obtained in fragrance laboratories. I praise her for that because none of the aromachemicals, even the best ones, can truly evoke the feeling of real sandalwood. I find the note in Trayee to be soft, delicate and creamy. It has a lovely smoothness with hints of buttery nuances. The whole thing feels comfortable and easy to wear.

After some time, in my case it was after 60 minutes or so, the smoky-creamy mixture of sandalwood and incense evolved into something more balsamic. Trayee starts to smell of myrrh. To my luck it doesn’t smell of burnt plastic but it smells of pure resin with spicy undertones as a company. Very enjoyable. I think that the spicy part comes from cardamom – I could smell its stronger aura few minutes later. Again it reminded me slightly of roasted nuts. Cinnamon on the other hand was hot and aromatic like freshly baked cinnamon buns. For the next couple of hours the perfume was changing its form by juggling with the perfume notes that appeared this far. A new change arrived close to the 3rd hours since the moment I applied few perfume drops on my skin.

That’s when I started to smell saffron. This precious and very expensive material brought a plush, velvet quality to Trayee making it incredibly sensual and dare I say sexy. And I swear I smelled the rose in here! Then agarwood appeared along with elemi and together they introduced a heavier vibe to the scent but the entire composition still remained harmonious, not overpowering.

Another two hours allowed the heavier perfume molecules to start floating higher. So I smelled a happy aroma of black currant combined with a green and herbal smell of basil. Trayee also developed a woody facet created with a use of ingredients such as cedar and vetiver. After some time I noticed how this NVC perfume becomes lighter with every hour.

Drydown notes started to appear on my skin not earlier than at the mark of 7-8 hours. First was the beautiful and shiny amber accord, really soft and noble. After some time it gained a voluptuous floral character thanks to jasmine. It was magnificent, filled with white flowers in full bloom. Then Trayee began to smell of sweet cloves with a delicate touch of powdery vanilla. There was also a small dose of oak moss that brought to life a chypre feeling from the depth of this Neela Vermeire fragrance. And it lasted and lasted on me, like a never-ending story that has a happy ending that brings tears to our eyes.

I must confess that when I sampled Trayee for the first time I thought it was too much for me. Maybe because I tried it when it was really warm outside? The other day when I was browsing through the samples I grabbed Trayee and thought I’d give it a try now, in the Autumn weather.

The verdict? It’s perfect now, really fits the aura of this season with all these perfume notes. I even planned to call it a “Queen of autumn leaves” for this review but the phrase was too long for the title to fit in one line. But zen says it all as well because I find Trayee to be contemplative and harmonious composition. Cold weather allows it to show the full potential.

NVC Trayee is an eau de parfum created by Bertrand Duchaufour. Originally it was launched in 55ml column bottle. This year, right before Pitti, the packaging was changed for a one designed by Pierre Dinand. The new flacon is slightly bigger (60ml) and has 24 ridges that match the Neela Vermeire Creations logo on the cap. This perfume offers moderate sillage and +12 hours longevity.

[note] sample was a courtesy of Neela Vermeire. 1st photo: from NVC press materials, 2nd and 3rd photos are from NVC Facebook profile and credit for them goes to NEROLI Luxus Parfüméria. Pictures were taken by M. Tassy and she’s the owner of them.

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24 thoughts on “Zen of mind, Neela Vermeire Creations Trayee

  1. Jordan River says:

    The M. Tassy / Neroli Luxus Parfüméria pictures are the best ever for this brand.

    Trayee is complex and you can certainly smell more breakdown than I can due to your perfumery training. Definitely my favourite although Ashoka would be a close second. I wear this once a week, usually on Sundays or whenever I want to smell semi-divine – lol. But seriously this is a masterpiece in a world of perfume pieces.

    • lucasai says:

      That’s why I asked Neela if I can use them, those pictures from M. Tassy are so artistic and beautiful!

      Dear, I’m not on any perfumery training really. I wouldn’t call it like that, I don’t learn how to identify notes at my university classes.

      My favorite since the start was Bombay Bling, but then Ashoka appeared and I like it so much too. Now it’s hard to say if I have a favorite. All are great.

  2. One of my all time favorites. Great review Lucas.

  3. hajusuuri says:

    Hooray for twins! Of the first NVC trio, Trayee is my favorite. I personally don’t like nor eat spicy foods, but Trayee’s hot and spicy warmth is oh so good. Lucas, have you tried Mona di Orio Vanille? To me, there are some similarities in the hot part of the development (eeek, that came out sounding kinda dirty, but you know what I meant). I have yet to try Ash!oka and the Mohur extrait so it remains to be seen which one will be my favorite of the entire line!

    • lucasai says:

      Are you wearing Trayee today?
      I’m with you not prefering the spicy food, but Trayee has a mild spiciness (and it’s not edible! ha!)
      I remember trying MdO Vanille once but I wasn’t head over heels about it. MdO scents usually don’t click with me.
      I’m sure you’d love Ashoka, especially that to me it has that creamy, buttery iris in the opening.

  4. Barbara says:

    Great review Lucas! This is my favorite of the My India Trio. Maybe someday I’ll own a full bottle! Have not sampled Ashoka yet.

  5. Undina says:

    I saw the subject of the review in my inbox but I didn’t have time to read it until today. I’m wearing Trayee today (because you reminded me about it) and loving it! I still like Bombay Bling! more but Trayee is so good. “It feels substantial and airy at the same time.”!!! 🙂

    • lucasai says:

      Undina, no problem in commenting later!
      I’m happy I could remind you of Trayee and that you love it. I’m with you, it’s great but I still like Bombay Bling! more, my scent twin.

  6. Edgar says:

    Trayee is complex, and very unique. It has an Indian-esque feel to it. Unfortunately, i did not like it enough to buy a full bottle. I need a fall/winter fragrance to kick my M.Micallef cravings.

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