Julien Blanchard and Madalina Stoïca, an actual couple behind the perfume brand Jul et Mad, they tell a story with each of their perfumes. Each of this tales somehow represent a stage of love. Amour de Palazzo to me is a perfume story about understanding the love, grabbing it by the hand after finding it. A hide & seek of two lovers, hiding from each other in corridors and chambers of this palazzo. One will eventually find the other to spend a ravishing night together.
Jul et Mad Amour de Palazzo unveils on my skin as a bold and expressive perfume. This fragrance doesn’t wait for the right moment to bloom, it just shows its best from the start. Immediately after I used a couple of sprays the first accord I noticed was the one of leather. To me this note isn’t very powerful (though my skin softens many intensive aromas) but it’s full of character. It smells soft and sensual but at the same time it has a slightly bitter flavor of tanins and pigments. It’s sexual.
20 minutes later a leather accord started to mutate. It became slightly stronger and it gained an additional animalic quality. Castoreum in Amour de Palazzo is used it a noble way (and rumor has it it’s the natural one.) My nose reads this aroma as wild but at the same time there’s a lot of femininity to it. It’s like a thick coat made of fur. Actually I smell fur in this perfume too.
When I’m close to the end of my 1st hour with this Jul et Mad perfume I begin to notice more spicy tones. First of all there’s a lot of nutmeg that introduces a spicy but dry feeling to the scent. It’s paired with ginger that adds more sparkling, fizzy spiciness. Additionally this stage is characterized by violets. They add even more luxury to this blend and they tone down the spicy effect so that it won’t overpower the other elements.
Depending on the day and on what I was doing this stage of Amour de Palazzo stayed with me for 2-3 hours before the new notes started to come out. Later on the perfume becomes heavier on more solid ingredients. There’s a lot of cedar in this perfume and it adds more masculine feeling to this fragrance. When you add agarwood to it the blend becomes even darker and thicker. Despite the wild character of these compounds this perfume still smells seductive, with a lot of harmony to it.
At 5 hour mark some smoky tones start to emerge from the deeper layers of Amour de Palazzo development. Labdanum, which is not any close to my favorite perfume ingredients, is used in a very nice way here. I can smell it but I don’t feel like it’s going to bully me. It sits on my skin gently, sometimes giving me a mentholated feeling that vanishes with a snap. Amber chord in this perfume has a golden color – it smells balmy and resinous and slightly vanillic too.
In the drydown, that comes around 8th hour I can detect some earthy patchouli but it’s not very strong. It quickly subsides and two other notes argue which one is more powerful. Warm and spicy cloves (yummy!) or maybe a pepper, with its paper-dry aroma combined with some metallic flavor. The further into the drydown evolution, Amour de Palazzo becomes more powdery. Finally it settles to a cosy aroma of musk that is fluffy and delicately creamy but also has an animalic and wild edge. Notes pyramid mentions papyrus as a note but I didn’t smell it. It’s not as pronounced here as in Rose Anonyme.
Were I to compare Amour de Palazzo by Jul et Mad to something I would say it’s like one of the big cats, probably a tiger that purrs with contentment like it was a kitty cat. To me this perfume is wild as a tiger, while exactly being aware of how to behave properly. No doubt it is a perfume about two lovers, about their nights, passions and entwining bodies.
The perfume was composed by Dorothee Piot in 2012. This fragrance, pure perfume (parfum) concentration comes in a beautiful 50ml bottles with platinum lettering on it. It is kept in a luxurious silverish leather box with velvet lining inside of it. In this box there’s also a Nomad Spray, a travel atomiser that comes filled with 7ml of the fragrance to allow you to have it always with you. Since November there are also these new minis of Jul et Mad scents, Love Dose, available.
PS. This is my 200th post published at Chemist in the Bottle.