Monday Quick Sniffs, part 18

Just to let you know – this is the last part of Quick Sniffs in 2013. The series will continue in 2014.

Tendre est la Nuit (Tender is the Night) joins Sculptures Olfactives from Majda Bekkali as the newest, 6th perfume in this collection. Composed by Delphine Thierry the composition begins with a heavy dose of earthy and muddy patchouli. Dry at first it becomes more damp and rotten after a while. Pepper adds more flavor to the blend with its quite intensive spiciness and metallic vibe that for this particular creation seemed impossible to avoid. The benzoin accord is dense and heavy, combined with sichuan pepper and leather it highly remind me of the one of Les Exclusifs de Chanel – namely Coromandel. They have some similarities. After 45 minutes I could smell some incense that was dominated by an immortelle that on me smelled again like a burning plastic. One can’t deny the animalic qualities of the perfume. Noticeable from the start, it’s highlighted in the drydown, when ambrette and castoreum create a wild and beasty concoction. There are also rough woody notes paired with labdanum that adds even more resinous character to Tendre est la Nuit. It’s not for me. Good longevity and projection. Bottles are 120ml of EDP.

Moon Bloom is the first perfume launched by independent indie perfumer Hiram Green under his own fragrance brand. It is a glamorous and kind of old-fashioned (in a positive meaning, it has a vintage vibe) perfume centered around two biggest white florals: tuberose and jasmine. The opening of the blend begins with tuberose. It’s a bombshell and really potent note in Moon Bloom. It has an intensive, but not pungent bouquet that after a while gains richness of jasmine petals. The indolic vibe appears, luckily in a version that is not a killer. The scent is very classy and sophisticated. When molecules of indol disappear I get a feeling like I smelled some smoky notes or tobacco combined with spicy cloves and I also detect a hint of carnation. 2 hours later, the floral stage becomes more delicate and resinous tones are the loudest, blending nicely with still noticeable jasmine and tuberose. There’s also a light creaminess from ylang-yland that is kind of exotic thanks to coconut. At some point a green vibe of stems and leaves is also possible to detect. Moon Bloom is a natural perfume, a very potent stuff of big sillage and a longevity that suits a natural composition (6-8 hours). Smelling this perfume I imagine a +50 lady at her boudoir, preparing for a glamorous night out. This composition is feminine, sexy and seductive. Available in 50ml bottle with a classic pump sprayer or as a 5ml travel spray. It was launched in 2013.

Vapeur de Tubereuse or FR! 01/02 is a November launch from the Fragrance Republic project. I’ll start by saying that I find the 2nd perfume in this project to be much better than Iris Safran launched in October. I just was unable to write a full review of FR! 01/02 because it contains too little notes for a full-sized article, that’s why it lands in the Monday Quick Sniffs today. On my skin Vapeur de Tubereuse opens with an interesting cocoa accord. To me it has a mixed nature. Once it smells like a bitter chocolate, slightly powdery and the other time it smells more dusty, ashy and dry. After some time a rose appears and it’s quite similar to the one in Iris Safran. It’s rather watered down, girly and ethereal. Still it combines with a cocoa note quite well, there’s something a little bit more complex about these two together. Tuberose appears as the final note, bringing an aroma of huge white flowers bouquet. When this note settles on skin it turns into something slightly more animalic, something that smells like suede, fur, also with a hint of nutmeg or cinnamon maybe. Some spices are there for sure. FR! 01/02 Vapeur de Tubereuse was developed by Julie Masse, sold in 15ml or 75ml bottles. Available via Fragrance Republic.

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24 thoughts on “Monday Quick Sniffs, part 18

  1. jilliecat says:

    It’s sad that lately tuberose seems to give me a headache, otherwise I would probably have loved to try the Moon Bloom and the Vapeur – the Moon Bloom in particular as your description of it as being in the vintage style really appeals to me. Tender is the Night seems intriguing, but not for me – however, I love the bottle!

    • lucasai says:

      I hope that your tuberose headaches is just a phase and it will pass shortly. I think you’d like Moon Bloom, it really has that old-ish, vintage vibe.
      Tendre est la Nuit is definitely not for me. And I dislike the bottle as well (as opposite to you)

      • jilliecat says:

        Thank you – I hope my tuberose headaches are just a phase too! Maybe the Tendre bottle is not so good-looking in the flesh? It is quite classy in the photo, but I can imagine that it might not work in real life, and may well seem a bit cheap up close. Also, I bet it is hard to use! I hate it when a design is so impractical I can’t get my fingers round the bottle and spray at the same time – Estee Lauder Jasmine White Moss is a good example – lovely to look at, but difficult to spray.

  2. Moon Bloom sounds promising and I love that bottle… I am a sucker for “old fashioned” fragrances. As for FR! 01/02, it was one of those scents that I tried, went “meh” and passed to the hubby to see if he would want it.

  3. rickyrebarco says:

    Very fascinating new scents. None of them seem to be to my taste but I would not mind smelling them. Damp and moldy does not sound “tender,” but I suppose the name of the scent is a bit of irony on the part of the perfumer. Thanks for your reviews. I really enjoy your blog.

  4. hajusuuri says:

    Monday Quick Sniffs! The Moon Bloom seems to be the most interesting of the bunch and definitely worth a try!

  5. Natalie says:

    What a massive disappointment that they would make such an unpleasant sounding perfume and put a name of a great novel on it (Tender is the Night). 😦

    • lucasai says:

      You know it sounds unpleasant to me, but some of my friends find it really appealing and they like it a lot.

    • Undina says:

      I had exactly the same thought! While I don’t like perfumes named after people, the idea of a book-perfume connection has always appealed to me. Too bad I won’t like this perfume (judging by Lucas’ reaction).

      • lucasai says:

        I didn’t even know that there’s a book titled “Tendre est la nuit” – probably because titles are often translated incorrectly in Poland.
        But I’m smarter thanks to you two.
        I don’t think you’d like this perfume my dear.

  6. Undina says:

    I don’t like tuberose so the last two perfumes aren’t for me. And it looks like the first one will be also a miss.

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