Monday Quick Sniffs, part 19

Today marks the return of Monday Quick Sniffs in 2014. Here I go again…

Tiger Oud is the recent perfume launch from the mainstream designer – Roberto Cavalli. Following the latest trend this creation is dedicated to the market of the Middle East and will be exclusive to the Arabian countries. A friend somehow got in possession of a bottle and she shared a nice sample with me. This perfume officially lists only rose and oud as the notes and that’s exactly how it smells like. Rich and opulent, oriental and rather sweet and sugary rose dominates the opening stage of Tiger Oud. Within a few minutes a weird dusty quality appears around it. It smells a little bit patchouli-like but mostly it reminds me of a bookshelf dust. At some point the oud note appears. It doesn’t feel the unpleasant medicinal vibe but it smells slightly herbal and woody and it’s not very difficult to notice you’re dealing either with a real oud of low quality or with a synthetic component. The latter seems to be more accurate. The main disadvantage if this scent is that is ends as it starts – there’s no development in this perfume. It is so linear and uncomplicated that it turns flat at some point. Maybe it’s better they send it to the East?

A fragrance simply named 450 by the Italian niche brand Farmacia SS. Annunziata dal 1561 is an absolutely stunning fragrance! It has a gentle and soft opening created with an accord of musk. It feels airy and it also has a salty undertone. After a couple of minutes the floral bouquet is revealed. I cannot pick any flower in particular but the entire feeling I get brings thoughts about a blooming meadow at the top of the windy hill, somewhere in the cottage. There’s also something balsamic in there. Later on you will notice the iris. A noble and powdery one, maybe slightly too much veering into the talcum powder territory. One moment the incense appears and 450 becomes colder, more reserved. The smell of smoke brings stone cold walls to my mind. In the drydown one can notice amber. It has a smooth and slightly sweet finish and at this point the saltiness appears again, this time paired with some pale aroma of the woods. I’ve been wanting to try this perfume for more than a year and when I finally did I had a very strong feeling that I knew this fragrance earlier. Later it came to me that it smells like one of the perfumes in my very own collection… 450 smells almost like Bois d’Iris from Van Cleef & Arpels. 450 puts more emphasis of floral notes while Bois d’Iris is more woody. They are really good alternative for each other.

Sentifique, a Zurich-based niche perfume company launched a collection of four fragrances in 2012. One of them was Cedre Sacre, a woody aromatic perfume for women and men. From the early minutes after application it effuses a zesty smell of lemon. It’s a little bit citric and zingy but it kind of lacks in terms of juiciness. To me the noe would be brighter with the juice scent included. After 15 minutes a dusty quality appears and it slowly transforms into intensive woody aroma of the cedar wood. There’s something punchy and dry about it, not to mention that at some point it starts to smell sweaty and dirty. I have this weird association of a rugby team after the game. Blah! Moreover the perfume contains some oud, probably artificial one that gives me a greasy and cloying feeling. That is additionally strengthen with incense molecules. Later on some additional woody notes appear but I can’t pick any particular species. The dirt, sweat, incense and oud go really strong for around 3 hours. The perfume is pretty linear and for the next few hours it smells the same, only to become weaker and weaker. If someone likes dirty and woody scents based on cedar, then that person should give it a try. I will pass…

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12 thoughts on “Monday Quick Sniffs, part 19

  1. Jordan River says:

    Tiger Oud; a cool name but sounds like it is less than the name based on your review. Wow, you found an Italian iris that is not Prada. I like the house, Farmacia SS. Annunziata dal 1561 for their Vaniglia Del Madagascar.

    • lucasai says:

      The name is great but the perfume isn’t something groundbreaking or special.
      It’s not that easy to find an Italian iris that doesn’t come from Prada. I think I know a few more.
      I haven’t tried the Vanilla one from Farmacia SS. Annunziata yet.

  2. jilliecat says:

    Very interesting to read your reviews – the 450 is very appealing. I think you passed the iris bug on to me, Lucas, especially after I won the Silver Iris in your competition. Until then I hadn’t realised that I actually liked this note, and now I crave it, and have discovered that it lurks in some of my old favourites! You have helped educate my nose!

    • lucasai says:

      Thank you Jillie.
      I think you’d like 450, it’s a very nice perfume, similar to VC&A Bois d’Iris.
      I’m glad to hear that. You’re probably 2nd or 3rd perfume that got into iris because of me

  3. Kathy Bible says:

    The SS Annunziata 450 sounds divine. You had me at “iris.”! I like this brand- they do quality stuff but most of their scents that i had tried were gourmands so I look forward to this beauty. Thank you so much for the review. I love your blog. Shhh,don’t tell the other bloggers, but I like yours and Bois de Jasmin’s the best of all. Have a wonderful Monday!

    • lucasai says:

      It smells great, it’s worth giving it a try 🙂
      Yes, I know that there are quite a few gourmands in Farmacia SS. Annunziata line, but not only gourmands.
      You’re welcome and I’m glad you like the blog.

  4. Holly says:

    Thanks, Lucasz. The 450 goes on my “must try” list! Lovely review,

  5. hajusuuri says:

    Happy New Year Monday Quick Sniffs…oh how I love thee and your author 🙂

    Despite its linear structure, I think Tiger Oud may be worth a try. I’m not bothered at all with linear scents because you know what you’ve got on first application and no change is fine with me.

    SS Annunziata 450 sounds great too!

    • lucasai says:

      So sweet of you
      If you say so then do give Tiger Oud a try if you can (might be more difficult due to arabii country exclusivity).
      450 is worth sniffing too

  6. Undina says:

    I haven’t heard any of the three names before reading about them here.

    It seems you liked 450. Why didn’t you do a full review for this one?

    • lucasai says:

      I didn’t do it because it’s too similar to VC&A Bois d’Iris. The review would sound almost the same. If I didn’t review Bois d’Iris earlier I would probably do a deja vu double review with a comparison of these two.

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