Darkness, Les Liquides Imaginaires Fortis

Not much is known about Les Liquides Imaginaires… The brand doesn’t even exist in the database of Fragrantica. What we are aware of is that the concept comes from Philippe di Meo the founder of a multidesign agency RESO. He wanted to create fragrances that evoke mystery, darkness and the alchemy practise. Recently the brand launched a trio of scents in Eau Sanguine collection, inspired by wines. Earlier they introduced 3 Eau Dela scents: Tumultu, Sancti and Fortis.

The object of my analysis today is Fortis, a perfume described as Shadowed or Dark WaterFroth of the soul, Pure water of the Phoenix, Ink of luck… Beginning of cleansing, Blotting of the unpaired, Substance of voodoo. Film of shadow, Dedication of incense, Dodge Mage. Parfum of Reincarnation. – says a tale attached to this fragrance. The juice of this perfume has a darkest color of them all, being black, purple-ish or blue-ish, depending on the lighting and the angle you look at it. In many cases a dark color of the liquid suggests a potent perfume which might turn into a monster soon after spraying. I was a little bit afraid to give it a go but for you, me readers, I will take the risk!

Fortis takes off really bold with a big dose of agarwood. Oud in this perfume is dense and dark, with a medicinal vibe that brings the rubbing alcohol to one’s mind. There’s also that kind of evil undertone of a cough syrup flavoured with cherry. After 15 minutes the oud accord is joined by nagarmotha – cypriol, with typical to this material smell of dry herbs, wine and oil. As I take a deeper whiff Fortis reminds me of some other perfume. Like it was a lighter (yes, lighter!) version of Amouage Opus VII. It has a similar structure but it’s easier to endure.

At 30 minutes mark I start to smell cumin. It’s spicy, dry, less sweaty than I expected. It kind of reminds me of curry. Then some saffron appears and I was very surprised that I found it so difficult to recognize it. Saffron lacks its usual jammy, sensual vibe. In Les Liquides Imaginaires Fortis it smells dry, like it was burning. It is also spicier than usual. The middle part of the composition is a woody galore! There’s some lignum vitae which is a gaiac wood relative and smells resinous. Cedarwood has a dry and refined smell in this perfume, of course with some sweat around it. Then we have some amyris – this one makes the composition smoother and easier to wear. Is that even possible?

After two hours the woody phase is terminated (for now!) with a vetiver accord. It also smells woody but additionally it has the undeniable rooty feeling combined with some damp soil. As the time flies Fortis loses the sharp edge it had from the start and becomes milder. A note of ambergris makes it warmer and adds a balsamic quality to the blend. Earthy patchouli brings the smell of the forest to the composition (bark, moss.) Sandalwood appears one hour later and it’s quite smooth and polished. Of course it marks its presence with power and many fragrant molecules but it’s pleasant.

In the drydown of Fortis by Les Liquides Imaginaires there’s a some vanilla too. As one could expect it’s not a bright, sweet, pudding-like vanilla but rather a dark vanilla pod. I think there’s also some coumarin blended into this accord to make it darker and more balmy. Finally there’s some musk in the base. It’s also more animalic, like the entire composition. Possible to pick are motifs of hot and sweated body, greasy hair etc. The imagery might not look too good, but when it comes to the sense of smell, it’s not that bad. In a pose like that the perfume lasts for a couple more hours.

Fortis was created by perfumer Sonia Constant from Givaudan. The other perfumer participating in the project is Jacques Huclier. This is a challenging perfume composition but not as hard to rock as I was expecting. The longevity of Fortis is good and so is the sillage. It comes in 100 ml bottles (see picture 2) – the design is simple and engravings on the cap add mystery. Fortis Eau Dela by Les Liquides Imaginaires is an eau de parfum that was launched in 2011.

Advertisements
Tagged , , , ,

10 thoughts on “Darkness, Les Liquides Imaginaires Fortis

  1. jilliecat says:

    Thank you for being brave and trying things so that we don’t have to!

    Can’t say that this would appeal to me as I never care for cumin and don’t want to smell in the least bit sweaty. However, the concept is intriguing, as is the colour. Does this stain at all, or is it like the Lady Gaga perfume which is inky in colour but becomes transparent on the skin (so I read, I have never tried it)?

    • lucasai says:

      No problem! There are a couple of other perfumes I tried and they were much worse than Fortis. You know, cumin and sweat don’t appeal to me but they were possible to endure here. I like the name of the brand and the ideas too, would like to try their other scents. As I was spraying on my skin the liquid on the skin surface didn’t seem to have an intensive color. I never spray on clothes so I don’t know if it could stain the fabric.

  2. Wow, wearing this sounds like a roller coaster ride. When you talk about the woody stage in the middle where it was so dry, my mouth started to pucker as I needed some moisture! Great review.

    • lucasai says:

      Totally, up and down and up and down.
      One has to really like paper dyr smell of woody notes to like it.
      I’m glad you liked the imagery and enjoyed the review

  3. hajusuuri says:

    Before I left this comment, I went back to your Do You Believe in Magic post as this sounds like it could be part of dark magic as it kept weaving new notes in and piling on top of the previous one..no wonder sillage is good. You’ve mentioned two notes that turned me off completely – cumin and sweat. Yikes. And if this is the best of the bunch, egads about the other ones.

    The bottles look like they are shaving brushes!

    oooh…and what is that symbol tied to the ribbon?

    • lucasai says:

      Yes, it sounds magical for sure. Unfortunately the brand isn’t available in Poland… I bought this sample from a girl who bought Fortis at First in Fragrance and organized a split. Cumin and sweat are off-turning for many of us 😉
      I think you got me wrong here. I think that Tumultu or Sancti, or the three Eau Sanguine scents aren’t such monsters

      The bottle… yeah, maybe a little bit. I see more of a microphone in it 😛

      I have no idea what does this sign mean, sorry. Maybe it’s an ancient rune? Looks similar to Uranus planetary symbol turned upside down

  4. Johanob says:

    Love at first sniff!!The patchouli-Vanilla drydown is gorgeous!!Love this perfume,also tried Dom Rosa,Sancti and Bloody Wood today!All on my wishlist!

Leave a Reply

Fill in your details below or click an icon to log in:

WordPress.com Logo

You are commenting using your WordPress.com account. Log Out / Change )

Twitter picture

You are commenting using your Twitter account. Log Out / Change )

Facebook photo

You are commenting using your Facebook account. Log Out / Change )

Google+ photo

You are commenting using your Google+ account. Log Out / Change )

Connecting to %s

%d bloggers like this: