Last week I received a surprise package that I would never think of. Such surprises are a real fun because you never know what to expect. After opening the safety bag it turned out, to my amazement that it was a small box with an Amouage logo and inside of it was a preview mini bottle of the eighth tome in the famous Library Collection – Opus VIII in a burgundy pouch. It was a real thrill to spray it on my skin for the first time. I feel honored that the brand owners along with creative director Christopher Chong wanted me to have this scent for an early preview.
The opening of Amouage Opus VIII initially gave me an impression like I was smelling some lilies. It took me more than 10 minutes to actually realize that what I smelled was jasmine, not lily. 20 minutes into fragrance development the jasmine accord becomes more obvious. It’s slightly heady, a little bit dirty and there’s a minimal dose of indol there. Next comes the ylang-yland chord which makes the new Library Collection fragrance really creamy, velvety and sensual with some hidden sex appeal to it. The feeling that I get is quite custardy, a tad sweet and milky. Maybe it was ylang-ylang that tricked me with the lily mimicking at first…
Until the 45th minute jasmine and ylang-ylang are two main actors of Opus VIII. When the clock ticks away the end of minute 44 this perfume gains a new face, much more pale, ethereal and sheer. Orange blossom note gives its specific freshness to the scent but in this composition it also has a honeyed finish in my opinion. There’s also something slightly animalic to that honey note. I think it’s either honey (which is not in the official notes) or ylang that warmed up the aroma of orange blossoms. Otherwise the fragrance could become too cold and in the form that it was blended it would be an overuse. Sheer describes this part of the top of this scent better. And cuddly too!
After almost two hours of having the perfume on my skin Library Collection Opus VIII the top notes slowly begin to weaken and dissipate, preparing the stage for the upcoming heart notes of this composition. In this stage of development I smell ginger as the earliest odour. It’s fizzy and sparkling like bubbles in a lemonade. Almost literally because the note has a citric, lemony finish with a hint of spiciness that I really liked.
Things got even more spicy after 30 minutes when saffron joined the composition. It isn’t as bright and delicious as in Safran Troublant or Safran Nobile but it certainly amplifies the spicy tones of Opus VIII making the composition more lively, more vivid. The initial delicacy of the composition was misleading, because now the Amouage develops much more density. The substance is created with a use of vetiver, woody and kind of dry, combined with gaiac wood. No worries folks, it doesn’t smell like oud, it doesn’t even remind the faintest shadow of that accord. Gaiac just smells woody, maybe a little bit oily and kind of moist, like some sappy juices were flowing from its core.
At 3 hours mark a pale smokiness appears from the deeper parts of Amouage Opus VIII blend. It was introduced to the composition with a gentle hand as this note never gets too heavy. It’s airy and fleeting like the silver smoke of incense floating above the shrine in a temple. Frankincense brings a comfortable contemplation to the scent which lasts for around 1 hour. After an hour you might start to notice that spicy, woody and incensy notes become more lightweight and interact with each other so much that at some point they’re all so twisted it’s hard to extinguish one accord from the other.
The calm down phase of the heart notes lasts almost for one additional hour so that the base notes start to appear when Opus VIII is with you for 5 hours already. I would describe it as mild and sophisticated. There are some balms as well as the benzoin molecules that make it balsamic, more substantial and slightly creamy. I think there was also a little bit of vanilla there. Everything is finished with bay from Jamaica. It adds a final touch to the composition.
As you can tell after reading my impressions of the new fragrance, Amouage Opus VIII is a complete opposite of Opus VII from 2013. The latter was really dark, dense, quite hard to understand and enjoy while this year edition is light, airy, pretty and admirably good. It’s like these two fragrances are a contradiction of one another. On the other hand Opus VIII isn’t light and delicate all the way. There are like two parallel universes in this perfume.
When I asked Christopher Chong on Facebook if he could tell in just one sentence what was his inspiration, what guided him to create Amouage Opus VIII that way, he said:
Opus VIII is a woody and floral fragrance inspired by the trompe l’oeil effect of creating a dialogue between reality and illusion.
And a sentence of explanation here. Trompe l’oeil is an art technique using a realistic imagery to create optical illusions, giving you the impression of seeing objects in three dimensions. That pretty sums up the thing. Just like in this technique our eyes can deceive us, in case of Opus VIII by Amouage our noses can fool us, the perfume has its own transitions.
- Top notes: jasmine, ylang-ylang, orange flower
- Heart notes: ginger, saffron, frankincense, gaiac wood, vetiver
- Base notes: balsam, benzoin, Jamaican bay
To me this new tome in the library of Amouage is like a fresh breath of spring, like a new life given to someone who thought they didn’t deserve it. It’s inspiring, tranquil and it lifts the mood. It kind of makes me think of snowdrops that mark the first appearance of the new cycle of the seasons. And I absolutely appreciate the fact that it’s so, so different comparing to the earlier seven Opus scents.
Amouage Library Collection Opus VIII was composed by perfumers: Pierre Negrin and Richard Herpin under a creative guidance of Christopher Chong. The fragrance is probably an eau de parfum just like other tomes in this line and a flacons are 50 ml (other Opus scents also available in new size) and 100 ml. The fragrance is characterized by a nice, medium level of sillage while longevity is not an issue, the perfume lasts 10-12 hours, gets closer to skin starting at 6 hour.
GIVEAWAY
I would like to pay the Amouage generosity forward by offering a 2 ml decanted sample to one lucky reader. All you need to do is leave a comment telling me what part of Opus VIII appeals to you and if you have a favourite Amouage scent or the one you’d like to try next. It’s a worldwide draw, open until Thursday, March 20th. I’ll announce the winner the next day.
[note] Many thanks to Amouage for providing the scent.
I must say all the heart notes appeal to me. 🙂 I love spices and vetiver is one of my all time favorite notes.
My favorite Amouage is still Lyric and this one is definitely the one I would like to try next. 🙂
I liked the heart notes too! Glad you like Lyric, Lyric Man is my faves too.
You’re in the draw
I would love to be able to try this, I think the base notes are perfect for me
I would also love to try Ous VII, as I understand it’s very different from this new one
thanks so much for your willingness to share
The drydown is pretty and darker than the rest.
Opus VII is very dark.
Welcome to the draw
The heart notes are right up my alley. I love frankincense and wood notes as well as ginger. I just saw the weather report and there’s more snow in the forecast his week. We’re actually having a flurry right now too, so any breath of spring would be nice.
Boo for the snow and flurry! Spring is in full swing here
Well I would be interested in smelling how Mr.Chong’s inspiration of composing real life artistic images to create a three dimensional effect translates into perfumery…interesting…Martin
You might just get a chance, Just answer the giveaway question. You didn’t do it. 😉
The jasmine really appeals to me, I love the smell of jasmine flowers but have yet to find a perfume that quite lives up to the true scent.
Jasmine was well hidden for me at first
After two hours, the citric, lemony finish would be what appealed most to me. Realizing of course, that my favorite lemon verbena is not part of this mix.
Just fizzy ginger, no verbena.
You’re in a draw amd I will reply to your email later
Ooh, this sounds fantastic! Initially I was disheartened when you mentioned lily, as I don’t usually like that note. However, if it’s ylang-ylang, I would probably love it as that’s one of my favorite notes. Jasmine and orange blossom are up there, too. It sounds like there’s a really nice progression from start to finish and the entire composition is appealing to me.
Would you believe I haven’t sniffed a single Amouage? So, I can’t comment about them. 🙂
Thanks so much for another lovely review, dear Lucas, and for your generous offer.
I think you’d enjoy Opus VIII! Oh, then you should start sampling them.
The floral part of this perfume is intriguing
Good description of everything that is happening with this one! I like how you mention that it is light and airy – just right for spring and early summer, and I think the jasmine, orange blossom and bit of incense sound great! My favorite Amouage is Ceil Woman.
Thanks! Yes, it’s airy and light. A great spring and early summer choice
The heart notes appeal to me the most, especially frankincense. I’m afraid I’ve never smelled an Amouage fragrance, but I think I would love to try Fate for Woman. It sounds like it would be right up my alley! Thanks for the giveaway!
Thanks for commenting. I hope you’ll be bale to try Fate Woman shortly to verify your opinion
This sounds like a really lovely fragrance. I have not had good luck with the other Library Opuses from Amouage. I may have to get a sample of this one. My favorite Amouage is Honor woman. Love that one!
Honour seems to be loved by a lot of ladies. Sorry that none of earlier 7 Opus scents didn’t work. I liked Opus II and V. And now VIII of course
That slightly animalic honey/ylang note that you found in the second phase of the opening has me really intrigued! I’m usually all about elaborate oriental fragrances (Jubilation XXV is my favorite Amouage), but I’ve been exploring floral elements recently and appreciating their complexities more and more.
Haven’t tried anything from the Opus series thus far. Thanks for the interesting review, and for your generous offer!
I cannot guarantee that someone else will also find the honeyed quality in Opus VIII, each nose is different. Same here, florals are usually not my thing but I’m beginning to appreciate them more.
I must say that your comment on the scent being inspiring, tranquil and lifting the mood is something that appeals to me and the thought of the comforting honey notes as well. The artistic comparison intriques me too 🙂
Glad you liked the review. I wonder if anyone else will detect the honey, like I did. It’s not in the official notes anyway
I also have an affection for Beloved but doubt Ill ever afford a full bottle 🙂
You never know.
Fabulous review, my dear Lucas. If I just read the Top Notes, I would have run the other way as they spell HEADY to me; however, you made it sound like it’s something I should try when I get chance. I will throw my hat in the ring and I hope I win :-). Thanks for the draw!
Thanks my dear. I agree, the top notes on their own sound heady (a lot of potent flowers there!) but then everything calms down.
I suppose you might like Opus VIII.
Lets see if you’re lucky!
Just wanted to say that this was a great, comprehensive review. I would say forensic! It always amazes me how you can pick out all the notes and describe the progression of the fragrance so well. Excellent!
Thanks Jillie!
Glad you liked the text.
Do you have a favourite Amouage? So that I can put you into the draw
My favourite Amouage, I think (I keep changing my mind) is Gold – it reminds me of how Madame Rochas used to smell, and is full of aldehydes, flowers and a chypre base, Also not unlike Guerlain’s Chant d’Aromes, but on steroids!
Good!
Just for your information, favourite perfume of Miss Stanisława Missala is also Amouage Gold.
You’re in the draw sweetheart
Thank you! Wow! I’m really “chuffed” that this is a favourite of SM = this makes me feel I might have good taste ……
You have a good taste sweetie.
And you never let anyone persuade you that it’s any different.
I believe that everyone has a good taste for themselves. It’s just that our tastes might not suit someone else
I’d love to experience the velvety, custardy top notes moving into the spicy heart notes! I haven’t tried any of Amouage’s fragrances yet, but the Amber/Sichuan Pepper of VI is intriguing me…
Thanks for the review and the draw 🙂
I liked the custardy quality that I got.
Opus VI is not for me, but who knows – maybe you’ll like it.
Welcome to the draw.
I wouldn’t miss any part of this new opus but I think the heart sounds most interesting.I haven’t tryed this one and I’m impationate to have the chance.I recently bought a bottle of Jubilation 25 extrait and I’m wearing it almost every day.
Wow, an extrain of Jubilation 25 must’ve been an expense!
You’re in a draw.
Thank you for the draw!
I realy wanted to try it and I was looking for a way to sample or a good deal.An excellent deal found me. I guess i realy want it very much and I couldn’t resist.
It’s quite dense it almost feel like an Amouage attar and like thier attars you need just a tiny amount.
I’m happy to share a sample.
Oh I can imagine that. With Amouage EdP you don’t need to apply much, most be even less in case of extrait.
Actually, all the notes appeal to me- perhaps especially the francicense. I own bottles of Epic, Memoir and Fate Woman so those are my favorites so far. Opus III was very pretty as well, if the Library collection will be availible in 50 ml bottles I might be tempted…
Good! and you’ve got nice Amouage collection.
Yes, they will be all available in 50 ml too from now on.
Thanks for the review! The lemon/ginger/spice heart notes sound particularly delicious. I have not had a chance to try any of the library collection, but I have loved or at least found quite interesting all of the Amouages I have sampled so far (Gold, Jubilation, Ubar, Lyric, and Epic (all woman)). I even broke down and bought a full bottle of Jubilation 25 and it is fabulous! I would particularly like to try Jubilation XXV.
You’re welcome!
Too bad you didn’t try any of Opus scents but hey, it’s never too late! And you sampled quite a part of female scents from the regular line!
None of the notes especially talk to me (and the honey actually scares a little) but since you liked it I want to try it.
Amouage is one of “my” brands so there are many perfumes I really like – Ubar, Gold, Lyric, Memoir, Dia, Opus I & Opus III.
The honey note is not really there, it’s not in the notes. It’s just me who though he smelled it, you might not smell it at all!
Good for you that Amouage is “your” brand, I don’t consider it as “mine”
Taking into the account their prices, it’s rather good for you 😉
You did enter me into the draw, didn’t you?
Yes and yes! 😉
Hallo, Lucas,
Jasmine, saffron and incense in a creamy combo – sounds great and unsniffed for me! Thank you for the detailed review and for the chance to try a new edition on the block! Well, I don’t know many of Amouage fragrances, I like the lady’s versions of Lyric, Epic, Honour and Dia, but the moment I got a whiff of Opus VI I was struck by a lightning! I couldn’t afford this heavenly nutty incense but I got a decant that I cherish and spritz gently on special occasions! Mr. Chong must have stirred a pinch of magic in there!
Hi! And than you, glad you liked the text.
You know 5, so it’s not that bad I think 🙂
Good that you’ve found a way to have some Opus VI for yourself.
Jasmine with frankincense is something I don’t see often. I am really curious to how Amouage plays with this combo.
My favorite easily from the whole Amouage line is Tribute, but out of the Opus line, my favorite is VI.
Flower and incense is unusual, that’s true.
Thanks for sharing your faves, you’re in the draw.
Jasmine, ylang & honey? Sign me up! I especially adore a jasmine that’s not afraid to get a little dirty and indolic.
So far my favorite Amouage is Epic for women.
Jasmine and ylang for sure. Honey, maybe, maybe not? I can see it was very personal perception with this note. No one else mentioned it in their reviews.
This sounds really interesting. I’m a big fan of jasmine, it’s very relaxing to me. I haven’t been able to smell many Amouage fragrances but I can say Reflection Man is an amazing fragrance and the first fragrance my nose didn’t get tired of at some point, I could smell it all day, every day and still love it. Thank you for your review and opportunity to win a decant of this fragrance.
Jasmine? Relaxing? Unusual! In my case it makes my senses shout and brings them to full attention.
You’re welcome. On to the draw.
So many wonderful notes, the saffron, honey and ylang-ylang all sound amazing. Thus far I have tried, and loved, only Fate Woman. I am looking very much forward to exploring this line more in the future! Thanks!
Fate Woman was really nice, I liked it too!
I think i will love all of the notes! The opening lets me think of APOM pour femme. I wonder if there might be a similarity. Otherwise I love the frankincense in Amouage fragrances in general. My favourite is Beloved woman followed by Jubilation 25.
Now you made me curious about APOM pour Femme if it’s similar. Might be!?
Amouage has the best frankincense from Oman after all!
It is actually a theoretical question Lucas. i was hoping you might know!
I haven’t tried APOM femme yet so I can’t compare.
my favorite amouage is Epic for men.
Good for you!
Unfortunately the draw was closed an hour ago…
I’d love to sample Opus VIII, thank you so much for the giveaway! I find I am drawn to spicy and smoky notes, so your description of those in the heart of the fragrance really appeal to me. My all time favorite Amouage is their Tribute Attar, loads of smoke there! Thanks to lovely DubaiScents, I have tons of other Amouage attars to try, so many scent adventures in my future with them. 🙂
I haven’t tried a single Amouage attar so far… I guess if I’m afraid I might love one and get sad I can’t afford it.