Thorns that don’t cut, Ann Gerard Rose Cut

French jeweller Ann Gerard introduced her perfume line to the niche market in 2012 with three creations: Ciel d’Opale and Perle de Mousse, which are eau de parfums and Cuir de Nacre which was created in an extrait concentration. The line was very succesful and one of the reasons for that must be that fragrances were created by Bertrand Duchaufour, Ann’s close friend for 15 years. This spring Ann Gerard launched her fourth fragrance focused on the beautiful flower, rose.Rose Cut, for that’s the name of the new fragrance is referring to the jewellery art. Rose cut is a very old and beautiful style of cutting gemstones. Main features of it are a flat base and a crown that is composed of 12 or 24 triangular facets which rise forming a point, reminding of a rose bud. You can see an example here. This very cut was in use since the middle of 16th century but it’s not that popular anymore. It occurs mostly in antique pieces but demand for this technique is growing again.

As soon as the tiniest smear of Rose Cut is applied to your skin you can smell the rum accord almost instantly. It’s prominent and boozy but also incredibly warm. You can notice some alcohol and quite a lot of sugarcane and brown sugar which adds a specific flavour to rum drinks. There’s also something luminous, tender and a bit syrupy-sweet about this accord. When aldehydic tones appear Rose Cut becomes colder. The composition becomes more chilly with the transparent metallic vibe given by aldehydes. This accord also gives a fizzy, sparkling sensation causing this new Ann Gerard perfume to remind me of some high price champagne.

Pink pepper that appears at the mark of 30 minutes after applying this fragrance to your skin adds a nice, balanced dose of pleasant piquancy, warming up the blend and making it more lively and vibrant. The opening stage of Rose Cut is quite bold and its presence around the wearer is something that you rather won’t miss. Rum accord is especially noticeable, giving you a feeling of comfort and safety. Notes of rum, aldehydes and pink pepper evolve one into another in a harmonious and seamless way. There are no sharp edges so far in this new perfume.

True rose accord appears around after 3 quarters of wearing Ann Gerard Rose Cut. It starts very fresh and crispy, like there was some geranium or a little hint of mint in the background. There’s definitely something slightly herbal about this note, however this impression doesn’t last long. Come to think of it maybe it was the peony that adds all these qualities to the main star of this composition. Soon enough the rose note becomes darker, more velvety and seductive.

When rose begins to dominate in the bouquet of Rose Cut, and that happens around 1,5 hours, I could notice that it’s not only quite a powerful flower here, but there is also something warm and spicy and woody about it. There’s a patchouli note which adds more density and dimension to this fragrance, as well as it makes it darker, but never shadowy or nocturnal. The rose note lasts surprisingly long, mixing with patchouli, pepper and rum for the next 2-3 hours. And this combination really makes me think of champagne rose. It’s bubbly, outgoing, sophisticated and elegant too.

The drydown of Rose Cut is exquisite. Oakmoss (or oakwood absolute as stated in the booklet introducing Rose Cut) introduces the dry, slightly woody and a bit powdery vibe that is truly charming. That is the kind of chypre interpretation that I like above any other. Addition of vanilla makes this part of a fragrance more delicate and sweet, while benzoin is responsible for adding density. It effuses a balmy aroma that is not too heavy and it couples with the other notes in a great way. Rose is still a diva here, she’s the queen of the perfume blend.

Just like the previous 3 scents, Rose Cut is a collaboration between Ann Gerard and Bertrand Duchaufour. I have zero knowledge when it comes to jewellery but I think I can recognize a good quality rose. Among the rose perfumes introduced at Esxence, and there were quite a lot of them this year, Rose Cut was one of the finest roses in my personal top list. This fragrance is a rose in full bloom, it is also a full-bodied one… And also with some thorns, but they don’t cut!Ann Gerard Rose Cut is a fragrance concentrated at an eau de parfum level, Ann Gerard told me that the exact strength is 13% of fragrance composition. The juice, which has a vivid and deep ruby color was poured into line’s signature bottle. The capacity is 60ml (costs 125€) and it’s also available in a discovery set of four 7,5ml spray vials (retails for 62€). The longevity of Rose Cut is around 8-10 hours. The projection is very good for 3-4 hours and then it gradually drops to become a skinscent in the end. After Esxence I want to buy a single bottle of perfume that made a lasting impression on me – this might be it!

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28 thoughts on “Thorns that don’t cut, Ann Gerard Rose Cut

  1. Maria Ho says:

    This sounds divine :)! I might spring for the discovery set. Recently I have developed an interest in diamonds and I must say I love the old cuttings, like the rose cut. The latest cuttings with a xillion facets just make my head hurt :).

  2. jilliecat says:

    Yum! Sounds delicious!

  3. Sabine says:

    I love how the ruby/pink juice looks in the bottle. In fact, the photo with all 4 fragrances in line makes my mouth water and it really reminds me of precious jewels. However, I have tried the previously released scents and had found them pretty, but lacking in depth. Especially the Cuir de Nacre, which was supposed to be an extrait, vanishes from my skin without a trace after half an hour. I hope the Rose Cut will fare better.

    • lucasai says:

      The color is very impressive. Oh, you’re right, I didn’t look at those four bottles lined-up as at jewels.
      Sorry to hear Cuir de Nacree didn’t last on you. Rose Cut will last for sure

  4. Lyubov says:

    Hallo, Lucas,
    I anticipated your review of Rose Cut, after I read your two Esxence postings about 10 times…Well, there’s not much to comment there – I am eager to visit the event myself someday, but till then I will read your detailed and precise descriptions of the aromatic festivals.
    Well,
    Rose Cut sounds pretty much my kind of rose, though I am into a variety of rose scents – jammy, fresh-cut and dewy, chypre, dusty, spicy…you get the picture! I am not a floral addict as a whole, but greater part of my most favorite perfumes are rose- or violet-centered!

    • lucasai says:

      So it made you curious from the beginning? I liked the perfume so much I couldn’t wait for too long to review it after my come back from Esxence.
      You can visit the fair next year – if not as a professional, you can be a guest on the public-open days.
      Rose Cuit is kind of a fresh-cut rose and also a chypre.
      I’m not a floral addict too, but when I did a monthly summary of perfume I wore it turned out floral was the most popular for me, ha!

      • Lyubov says:

        Yep, confession time – rose junkie here, haha! Did you opt for Rozy by Vero Kern as well? Sometimes I intentionally refuse to wear a rose-centered perfume, which I love and have worn for several days, in order to try something else, but it’s hard ! Yesterday was Hippie Rose day, for instance, but today I’ll check out some fruit and spice like Playing with the Devil or other…

        • lucasai says:

          I tried Rozy at the Perfume on Canvas exhibition in Milan but I didn’t think of buying it.
          There are weeks when I don’t wear rose perfume at all!

  5. hajusuuri says:

    Instant lemming! The notes and how they develop sound fabulicious. I already have the discovery set of the first three so I need to consider orther options of acquiring. The color of the juice based on the pictures seem to be a deeper pink than ruby. Her other scents are in the pastel pallette. Gorgeous!

    • lucasai says:

      Happy for your lemming! You’d love the perfume. You could split a bottle. Eventually you might get my travel spray since I’m buying a FB of it.
      Yes, it’s deep pink but ruby sounded better for the review. 😉

  6. shellyw says:

    This is the second very complimentary review I have seen of Rose Cut. I will have to keep my eyes open for a tester some where. I have my great grandmother’s engagement ring which has rose cut diamonds. It is an interesting cut. One jeweler told me they can get more might and sparkle from the new way of cutting, but 100 years ago rose cut was a very good way to go. I like old ways often, just because one thinks of the craftsmanship.

    • lucasai says:

      Is it? I’m curious who has similar imoressions to mine? Do you mind telling? Good luck looking for a sample of Rose Cut! I’m sure that old ring that you have looks beautiful. There are better techniques now but the old craftsmanship has its own value

  7. Undina says:

    I like the line and could probably wear any of the first three perfumes. I haven’t bought the discovery set because I like* the real bottles. I’ll think about it now with the 4 bottles… Maybe I should go for them…

    * Unfortunately, I think bottles are too big. I’m not talking about me not being able to use 60 ml of this (or any) perfume. In this case I mean that I think those bottles would have looked much better in 30-40 ml size – the way they look on most pictures.

    • lucasai says:

      I remembered you wrote somewhere you liked the original three. The real bottle always has advantage over the discovery set plain vials aesthetics. With 4 scents the discovery set sounds better (is that what you meant to say?)

      60ml is not a huge bottle but I get what you’re talking about – the design of this bottle makes it take quite a lot of space on the shelf, right? They would look even cuter if they were half or 3/4 of their capacity.

      • Undina says:

        Yes, I meant that with four bottles in the discovery set I might go for it since I really do not need much more of any of the perfumes.

        It’s not that much a shelf space that I’m worried about (I still keep everything in the original boxes) but just the look/proportion of the bottle. I looked at them in Jovoy and was a little disappointed because I expected them to be smaller (and cuter!) from their pictures. You expect them to be smaller! Oh well…

        • lucasai says:

          If you want to have a little bit of four Ann Gerar’s on-the-go a travel set is a better option than buying a decant at decanting service websites.

          Ok, now you made it clear. When I had a bottle in my hand at Esxence I didn’t think of it as something that disappointed me in terms of size really. But I was mesmerized by the perfume so bottles proportions weren’t that important to me. But I guess you’re right that from press pictures the bottle looks smaller or to have a smaller circle as a base.

      • hajusuuri says:

        Lucas, are the 60 mL bottles spray or splash? The Discovery Set is splash.

        • lucasai says:

          The 60ml from Ann Gerard are all spray and Discovery Set also are spray vials. I got a Rose Cut travel (the discovery set one) from Ann and it has an atomizer. I will ask Ann for sure.

          • hajusuuri says:

            Thanks, Lucas. The 4 pack Discovery Set sounds great with atomizers. I asked my basenotes splitter if he would host a Rose Cut split and he said he will look into it. I pre-reserved 30 mL so I can keep the bottle. There is something really elegant and inviting with the clean curlicue design of the label.

            • lucasai says:

              You can always count on me! Glad I could help. Those 7.5ml sprays are very handy and they fit anywhere. Great. Would be so cool if you had 30ml of it in the original bottle. We’d have another perfume in common. I love those letters too

  8. I am thinking that I may have to invest in a discovery set! Thanks for the great review Lucas.

  9. rickyrebarco says:

    Your review makes me want to try these but I really did not like her first three scents. I have “oakmoss issues.” I hate the stuff. I think I have on chypre in my collection but I might try a sample of this. If it actually smells woody rather than funky mossy I may like it. Beautiful review as always!

    • lucasai says:

      I see, I had some mixed feelings about the other 3 but Rose Cut definitely stands out in this line. I definitely doesn’t have a ‘deep forrest moss’ vibe

  10. […] reading: Bois de Jasmin and Chemist In A Bottle. First In Fragrance has €125/60ml Surrender To Chance has samples from […]

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