I have said it more than once that I love Italian perfumes. I don’t know if it’s mostly because of their stylish, classy and timeless character or maybe because the Italian way of living appeals to me in general. There could be also some deeper and more hidden reasons why the perfume art in Italy touches my heart so often. One of those Italian niche brands that I like is Eau d’Italie. They won me last year when Aqua Decima was introduced. This March the 11th fragrance was launched.
Graine de Joie, which could be translated from French to “grain of joy” in English is a fragrant composition inspired by love and it’s supposed to evoke the feeling of light-headedness when someone is falling in love. There are many perfumes in the market nowadays that have the stories of love as a base-motif for their campaigns. Did Eau d’Italie manage to say something new about love?
The perfume blossoms on my skin with a delicious, mouthwatering and juicy cocktail of red berries. It’s very playful, bright, happy-fruity and outgoing at the same time. There’s a refreshing twist to it, like a warm rain on a summer day. It gives you the energy boost that makes you want to jump, do some exercises or to be more efficient at what you’re currently doing. After 15-20 minutes red currant joins the composition introducing this slightly acidic but tasty flavour of tartness on your tongue – isn’t eating berries one of your childhood summer memories? It is for me.
After a while I begin to notice that the summer concoction of red fruits begins to weaken revealing yet another fruit in the composition, but it’s more watery, ozonic and muted. Just a little while longer and it’s possible to say that what I noticed was a pomegranate. It has a very characteristic aroma of something in between fruity, tropical and marine notes. It adds a nice quality to the perfume, making it quite easy to wear and I have no doubts this perfume is tinted with bright red color in the context of using the right essences for the composition. The berries, red currant and pomegranate seem to create a nice blend.
Two hours from the moment of applying Graine de Joie on my skin the fragrance begins to change in a slow motion. First you notice how entwined aromas of sweet and sour red fruits becomes lighter, which is then followed by some powdery notes becoming stronger. I figured out that the powdery feeling I got comes from the praline accord. It’s not overly sweet and it doesn’t give you an obvious association with chocolate. It’s not as simple as that. You smell more of a confectionery: sugar powder, some nuts – before you put all the smells together to come up with the idea of a praline.
Then there’s some freesia in the mixture of Eau d’Italie Graine de Joie. To me it smells quite interesting as it doesn’t give much of a floral bouquet, effusing the scent that I would describe as creamy, milky or soothing. It kind of resembles ylang-ylang to me, but that’s just my personal digression. The actual flower composition blooms on my skin at 3-3,5 hours mark. Those are some light and airy flowers, with delicate and fresh petals. I find it really hard to pick any specific flower in there. I find no characteristic aromas of rose or jasmine, but who knows, maybe there’s some peony in there? I don’t know. The structure of the scent is quite simple so far and this is definitely a thing people in the PerfumeLand will both like and dislike about this perfume. They’ll split in two groups.
At around 5th hour the drydown notes start to emerge from the bottom of the fragrance pyramid. There’s some cedar which provides a gentle but substantial woody element in Graine de Joie, luckily it lacks the sweaty facet which is often attached to this material. A little bit of berries and flowers are still detectable, maybe they covered the stink of sweat? The finish of this new perfume is a musk, plain, slightly clean, slightly animalic (because of the cedar I suppose). It is a nice base for a fruity scent like this one. To me the foundation of such scent should be simple and inoffensive.
Trying to answer the question if Graine de Joie is about love I would say that I think it is, although it’s not a mature love or a love for a lifetime. In my opinion this fragrance represents the first love, the one that happens in your teens when you don’t know exactly what to do, how to behave, how to express your feelings towards the other person. It’s a clumsy love that has its own charm. And I find it appealing that there’s an aphrodisiac in this perfume – pomegranate. I also think that this very fruit is a source of the name of this new Eau d’Italie perfume as pomegranate has those small red juicy grains inside. Graine de Joie is happy and happy it’s meant to be!
Eau d’Italie Graine de Joie is a composition made by perfumer Daphne Bugey. It’s concentration is eau de parfum and it’s already available on the market. The fragrance comes in a 100 ml glass bottle covered with a white lacquer making it almost non-transparent. The front of the bottle is adorned with a red label with white letters forming the name of the perfume. The design of it matches the previous creations from this perfume house, adding the color of red to their colorful, rainbow-like palette of fragrances. Graine de Joie lasted on me for around 7 hours and stayed rather close to the skin. I have to admit that I like it less than Aqua Decima or Jardin du Poete but it’s a nicy fruity scent.
[note] Pictures: 2 and 4 are my own, All rights reserved.