Terry de Gunzburg Bleu Paradis & Fruit Defendu

I have not heard about Terry de Gunzburg as a perfume brand until last year when I went to Warsaw for the first time as an aware perfumista and had a sniffa with friends. While visiting one of the niche perfumeries in the capital city of Poland I discovered the line, the packaging was especially interesting. Heavy, rather short bottles with very interesting caps that looked like silver UFO ships. I even liked one or two of them, but never enough to spring for a bottle. I’m very picky.

This spring two new fragrances join the line and they’re said to be lighter than earlier compositions, more suitable for spring and summer. The names are Fruit Defendu (shown above left) and Bleu Paradis (shown above right). Don’t you agree that judging just by the names I should expect something quite tropical from both of these compositions. Let’s see how good or bad they are.

Bleu Paradis opens with a bright and fruity note of litchi. It has a very straight-forward aroma that is tropical, playful and full of energy. There’s also something juicy and refreshing about this note making me think of some fancy cocktails or drinks at the beach bar. After a while the composition gets a floral edge when rose accord begins to bloom on the skin. This is not a sultry, oriental rose – Bleu Paradis has a rose that is really toned down, slightly fruity and dewy as well. After 1 hour the blend becomes warmer thanks to the ambery notes. I highly doubt that we’re dealing with natural amber here. It smells kind of mineral and a little bit salty on my skin (think sea water) and as the time flies it develops into something a little bit more animalic. The accord of amber in Terry de Gunzburg Bleu Paradis certainly has a nice portion of warmth attached to it. For the next 2-3 hours the composition stays rather linear only to change a little while later. Cedar introduces the woody facet with a black pepper undertone and unfortunately with some sweat as well. Musk in Bleu Paradis is also more animalic that clean, fluffy or creamy. This is a nice perfume but I have some mixed feelings about it. Maybe it’s because I dislike fruity scents in general or maybe it’s because pairing tropical aromas with more skanky ones like musk, cedar and amber wasn’t the best choice? For sure longevity and sillage disappoint. It stays very close to the skin and lasts 4-5 hours. Is that good or bad for a summer scent?

Fruit Defendu starts off with a lovely cloud of light and fluffy musk. It’s rather clean, curly and spongy like sheep wool, with a creamy, milky vibe to it. After a couple of minutes the opening offers a tropical paradise. There’s a lot of mango in this perfume but it’s few times weaker than my favourite mango perfume which is Bombay Bling! from Neela Vermeire Creations. Mango in Fruit Defendu smells slightly oily and buttery, capturing the feeling of a real fruit in a quite nice way. Later there’s a shot of bergamot which adds a nice tangy twist with a little bit of sour taste, making the composition more uplifting and invigorating. Then, there’s also a pineapple accord which smells very good and it’s realistic. You can almost feel how juice bursts from the yellow flesh as you take another bite of the fruit. Some time ago my family developed a fondness for pineapple and eating it is a great thing for us. This tropical goodness is both sweet and tart, ideal as a component for a fruit salad. Pineapple in Terry de Guzburg Fruit Defendu is just like the one I know. As the perfume takes a progress you might notice some rose in Fruit Defendu – it’s very similar to rose from Bleu Paradis as it’s also light and dewy. In the drydown there are some spicy and piquant flavors provided by pink pepper. On the whole I think that Fruit Defendu is a lovely summer fragrance. Light, happy and energetic. It also lasts longer, for around 6-8 hours, staying closer to the skin anyway, could be a little bigger I think.

Terry de Gunzburg Bleu Paradis and Fruit Defendu both are in concentration of eau de parfum and they were composed by perfumer Michel Almairac. Despite the fact that each of them makes a focus on tropical fruits, the perfumes go in two different directions. If I were to choose one to pack in my bag for the summer, I would take Fruit Defendu. The only bottle size is 100ml, previous Terry de Gunzburg offerings were also available in 50ml. The bottle design of two new perfumes is similar to the older ones, the flacon was transformed to be taller and more sleek to make it look less heavy.

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26 thoughts on “Terry de Gunzburg Bleu Paradis & Fruit Defendu

  1. Ines says:

    πŸ™‚ Well, I haven’t heard the name before today. So you were definitely there quite a long time before I was. πŸ˜‰
    They sound interesting.

  2. jilliecat says:

    I learnt all about Terry de Gunzburg years ago from my best friend who is a massive fan of hers: she told me that Terry was the inventor of the famous Touche Eclat for YStL. Terry set up her own make-up company a while ago and I guessed that it would only be a matter of time before she branched out into perfume.

    I think she probably has quite high standards and I imagine her perfumes will be good, although possibly not ground-breaking; of the latest two, I think I would like the Fruit Defendu as the notes remind me of PdeN’s L’Eau a la Folie which I am very fond of, especially in the summer.

    Lucas, your description of the musk as being like sheep wool is absolutely brilliant!

    • lucasai says:

      Terry de Gunzburg is definitely more well know for her cosmetics/make-up line. I’m happy you’ve heard about her. I didn’t know about the YSL. It’s not far from make up to perfumes, is it? I haven’t tried all those Nicolai scents…

      • jilliecat says:

        I do like quite a lot of them, but they turn very quickly – probably because they have a higher percentage of natural ingredients?

  3. hajusuuri says:

    Fruit Defendu for me! Barneys carries the line so I am sure I will encounter it. When the perfume line launched in-store last year, Terry herself was there; I didn’t make it to the party. The make up line is supposed to be very good but its perfumey smell made it a non-starter. Great reviews.

    Re: pineapples – I can eat it only in small doses because no matter how sweet it is, it is too acidic. Do you buy the whole fruit and prepare it yourself? Oh, and coincidentally, the couple whose home I went to for Easter collects pineapple motifs. It was their wedding symbol and it means welcome. I am always on the lookout for unusual pineapple objects.

    • lucasai says:

      Fruit Defendu for you! Let me know when you try it and it it was full bottle worthy. Great you have the line in your reach.

      Yes we buy the whole fruir, slice it and then cut into smaller pieces. It’s much better than the pineapple from the can, the one in syrup. Too much additional sugar in them. I like the balance of sweet and acidic flavors of this fruit

      • hajusuuri says:

        I received a Barneys catalogue today and both of these scents were featured! With Sniffapalooza so close, I would hate to be tempted with another FB…specially one that is at a venue that is NOT part of the event….I am definitely looking forward to Sniffapalooza specials!

    • jilliecat says:

      Hi, Haj! I share your problem with fresh pineapple – I asbolutely adore the taste of the sweet, ripe fruit, but it doesn’t like me back and feels like it is gnawing at my stomach. The only way I can eat it is to take an anti-acid pill beforehand! Wearing it is the best way of enjoying it – I liked L’Artisan’s Ananas Fizz.

      Did your friends know that the pineapple was a status symbol in the 18th century, and you can find pineapple motifs in lots of architecture and art of the period? I always smile when I see a pineapple carved into a cornice of a grand ballroom’s ceiling as it seems so un-British!.

      • lucasai says:

        Glad I don’t get stomach problems from a pineapple. I love to eat it and to smell the fruit but in perfume… I dislike it. Ananas Fizz or Aventus (?) make me nauseous

        Funky fact about the pineapple!

        • jilliecat says:

          Totally understand about the AF making you nauseous as it can do it to me if I am not in the right mood for it! It’s strange, but I have only liked it in recent years; when I was younger I would have avoided it. Strange. I guess we evolve all the time and our tastes can vary wildly at different points in our lives.

      • hajusuuri says:

        Oh my…yes…eating fresh pineapple feels like my stomach is being gnawed from inside out so really, the only kind I eat is the processed kind.

        About the pineapple being a status symbol, they are the least pretentious people I know. They live in a colonial and their interior has a lot of colonial touches – no grand ballroom though πŸ™‚

  4. Anka says:

    Thanks for this informative review, Lucas! I didn’t know that Michel Almairac created these two – Fruit Defendu sounds promising.
    When Terry de Gunzburg offered her line-up in 2012, I immediately fell in love with Flagrant DΓ©lice (a milky fig), I wore it a lot and suddenly – last winter – I got board. I still like it but like “let us stay good friends, ok?”
    Thankfully I own the 50 ml bottle…and these smaller ones look even better. To my taste the bottles look perfect, really stunning!

    • lucasai says:

      So you have heard of these two new perfumes but didn’t know about the perfumer?
      Flagrant Delice wasn’t to my liking but Parti Pris was, even Terryfic Oud is quite ok.
      Sorry you got bored but with 50 ml bottle you can always revisit and maybe fall in love again?

  5. Undina says:

    Great reviews for the perfumes you’re not mad about. The blue one sounds better than I expected: from the name I thought rather about aquatic part of the Paradise.

    For some reason I do not trust cosmetic companies that also decide to add perfumes to their portfolios. I don’t know why, but I feel differently about well-known houses with both (or more – e.g. fashion) lines established. But whenever a company that didn’t carry perfumes suddenly decides to jump on the bandwagon, until proven otherwise, I expect another mass market creation.

    • lucasai says:

      Thank you for the kind words. These reviews are of course much shorter than my regular ones. I wasn’t mad about the perfumes but I can see them being liked by many.
      Gosh, I wouldn’t stand the aquatic paradise ;P
      I understand your suspicion. Who does makeup/cosmetics, should stay there πŸ˜‰
      So you were not very eager when e.g. Bottega Veneta started making perfumes?

      On the other hand I’m glad Prada decided to go into perfumery.

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