What you get when you combine the classicistic fragrance form such as eau de cologne with fine perfumery ingredients and concentration reaching almost 20% of oils? That’s right! You would get nothing less than Atelier Cologne. A brand founded in 2010 by Sylvie Ganter and Christophe Cervasel has won many hearts over the past few years. They won my heart too! But what would happen if you took the idea of Cologne Absolue and mix it with the shiny aura or precious metals? That is how Collection Metal was brought to life, and the 3rd element of it has just been revealed.
The newest Cologne Absolue in Collection Metal is called Blanche Immortelle and is a fragrance devoted to Helichrysum – also known as “immortal flower” from Corsica. The composition opens with bright and zesty bergamot note. It has a refreshing twist with a juicy zing that has a slightly acidic flavor. After 15 minutes the feeling gets milder and some sweeter aromas appear on the skin. Still juicy but not so acidic, mandarin orange brings the sun of the Mediterranean, balancing the opening stage with the gentle sweetness. The combined feeling is tart, lively and energetic.
Another 15 minutes later the citrus opening is disturbed by some new, pleasant aroma. The character of Blanche Immortelle becomes a little bit more powdery. At first it reminds me of the floral pollen, of the meadow hidden in the woods at the beginning of spring, when wild flowers start to grow and bloom after the cold winter. Later however my association with pollen disappears and I’m left with the powder like sensation, of yellow-ish flowers, of mimosa. My relationship with Helichrysum is a tough one because in most cases it smells like a burning plastic on me.
As the time flies, the composition of Atelier Cologne Blanche Immortelle gains weight and density. What was a prelude of bitter and sweet citrus and mimosa, is no longer what it was. At this moment, after 1 hours after spraying the perfume on my skin, the scent becomes much, much warmer. Presence of the immortelle accord (an absolue in this case) is undeniable. What I truly appreciate is the fact that it doesn’t smell like other perfumes with this note that I know. Blanche Immortelle reveals the main accord by heating up the blend. Minute after minute you notice how the perfume aura around you becomes warmer, more enveloping, cuddly and safe. After a while the warmth reveals the spicy element of the fragrance.
The feeling I get is probably the closest to cinnamon and nutmeg, because apart from the obvious spiciness that I get, there’s also a certain dryness in this stage of Blanche Immortelle development. The feeling lasts for several hours, providing you with the sophisticated smell. At some point I noticed a slightly syrupy vibe, common for immortelle accord, but it quickly subsided allowing the spicy tones to dominate. Here marks the further evolution of this amazing fragrance.
Spicy facets of immortelle accord blended with just a tiny hint bergamot/mandarin combination kept me entertained for really long, though it were the spicy elements that made the composition more high-paced and vibrant. Approximately 4 hours later the flower bouquet grows bigger thanks to jasmine and rose (and don’t forget immortelle is a flower as well!). Neither rose nor jasmine get the leading role in Blanche Immortelle. No worries as they create a beautiful background for the middle phase of the perfume development. I find them mingling with bright white and red, like some unusual constellations, highlighting the more peaceful side of the “immortal flower.”
The more time this Cologne Absolue spends on your skin, the weaker becomes the immortelle, so at some point rose and jasmine petals festively burst in your nostrils, to please those who love pretty flowers. When that happens – it also signalizes that another step in development has been made and that more changes are yet to come. After 6-7 hours Blanche Immortelle starts unveiling the base notes of the composition. It is still very warm, now getting a tad sweeter and even more generously saturated with aroma.
Woody, slightly earthy vetiver creates the initial stage of the drydown. It’s quite aromatic, smelling a little bit like hay, like coumarin and also, to my surprise, as if there was some vanilla in it. Patchouli makes the whole idea of a perfume deeper and more dimensional, also adding a hint of darkness and mystery. Sandalwood (from Australia) on the other hand is luminous, bright and shiny. It has a smooth and creamy feeling that is both delicious and addictive.
Blanche Immortelle is one of the most concentrated Cologne Absolues that Atelier Cologne has to offer – no surprise it lasts all day (over 12 hours on a mid-warm day) and that it leaves a trace even 2-3 meters after the wearer for most of the time. Even in the drydown it’s not only about the woods, the other notes can be caught there too, just as if the perfume was re-arranging. Like a kaleidoscope – it changes the form and shape, all this to surprise you each time you wear it.Atelier Cologne Blanche Immortelle is telling a story about caring for others without expecting them to put a person on a pedestal for what they have done to help those in need. Even though the story has a female narration, the perfume is very unisex, to tell you more – it smells great on a man.
Her limitless generosity defined her, but she preferred to stay hidden. With fire and passion, she secretly devoted every moment of freedom to the cause that could make an everlasting difference. Her actions would irreversibly alter the established order.
The newest Cologne Absolue in Collection Metal – Blanche Immortelle was created with passion by perfumer Jerome Epinette from Roberter. Of course Sylvie Ganter assisted him to make sure they make something outstanding together. It’s concentration is 18%, making this new fragrance to be highly concentrated eau de parfum. The perfume is due to launch soon.
This perfume comes in 100ml bottle, 200ml bottle (with a 30ml of your choice, except Collection Metal) and also in a set of Blanche Immortelle 200ml + Blanche Immortelle 30ml + leather pouch. Individual 30ml petit flacons are not available. In stock are also samples, soaps and scented candles. For more glamour and beauty, Blanche Immortelle bottles are covered with rose gold.
Brilliant review of what sounds like a really special perfume! I applaud Atelier for their excellent range of colognes and commitment to strength and longevity in a fragrance – I am so disillusioned with most companies’ offerings currently as they are so weak and fleeting (what’s the point of wearing something you can’t smell?!).
You introduced me to the lovely Silver Iris, of which I am so fond, and I think Blanche Immortelle is going to be another gorgeous cologne; even though I have my reservations about immortelle, I am sure from your description of this that I would like it. But you have got to stop tempting me!!!
Thank you Jillie! ♥ Atelier Cologne does a great job regarding the concentration and longevity of their fragrances. Maybe there is a “cologne” word in “cologne absolue” but the longevity is far beyond that.
I’m very happy for you that you loved Silver Iris and that you managed to won an ebay auction to get a silver-coated 30ml petit flacon of it. I can tell that you’ll like Blanche Immortelle because it smells like no other immortelle I know.
You’ve got a good memory, Lucas! The sample you sent me of Silver iris will always remind me of Christmas as I wore it last Christmas Eve and Christmas Day; it felt just right – rich and comforting – and the wonderful fragrance lingered on my skin even through all the cooking. Even though it seems that Atelier colognes are quite expensive, the quality of ingredients and superb longevity make them worth their price. After all, you could pay similar money for some really dreadful generic stuff from the department stores. But I was very pleased to get a small bottle for a reasonable sum!
I remember some facts 😉 Great that this perfume will remind you of a good times of Christmas in 2013. I’m sure you smelled spetacularly good. Collection Metal is more expensive due to raw materials and the real precious metals coating on the bottle – generally speaking I consider Atelier Cologne as very affordable perfume house. And you’re right – sometimes some generic stuff is priced higher…
Immortelle can be tricky for many, but i love it as a note. I look forward to checking this out.
It is tricky for me for sure but Atelier Cologne delivered one that I really enjoy. Will have it soon 🙂
Thanks for the concise review, Lucas, I am curiously waiting to test Blanche Immortelle – I wouldn’t have associated the (beautiful) colour of the bottle with your description (lively, immortelle, woody, cinnamon etc.) – that all sounds yellow to me…and very interesting. Does BI remind you of any other scent?
Thanks for reading Anka, my pleasure to share the review with you 🙂 The rose gold bottle looks stunning, very unique. That’s funny when you say that it all sounds yellow to you. I find the color of the bottle to be a perfect choice. It might have some small details similar to one or two other immortelle scents but I don’t want to compare. As much as I don’t like immortelle, BI is my immortelle perfection 😉
Anka, you made me laugh as I think of immortelle as yellow too – all those hundreds of bouquets I tied with the dried flowers that I was complaining about the other day were most definitely yellow (I will never forget them)! But I can see how in this composition that the flower has been elevated to a richer shade, complemented and transformed by the other ingredients..
Yes, taking into consideration that immortelle flowers, dried or fresh, are usually yellow (sometimes white) – now your color association seems reasonable 😉
Other ingredients make a lot of impact on this note in Blanche Immortelle.
That makes sense, now I am even more curious to finally test it!
Did you order a sample on that 72 hours pre-launch? Or are you waiting until the perfume will launch officially?
I am waiting…but it’s nice to have something to look forward to, the other one I am waiting for at the moment is the new Amouage (I read about the launch at kafkaesque).
It’s worth the wait! Regarding Amouage Journey I have just received my preview samples from the Amouage office
How cool that you received a preview sample of Amouage Journey, I am looking forward to read your review!
I think I will write about both scents together – next week is probably the date 😉
You really nailed it here, Lucas! Spot on. Blanche Immortelle calls to my mind an image of Cuba based on what I’ve read and photographs. Warm, golden sunlight filtered through old wooden shutters. Moments of brightness alternate with muted motes of dust. A kaleidoscope indeed. I was astounded to read the narrative as it fits perfectly with what I imagined.
Thank you Holly! Have you tried it already or are you smelling with your imagination? So great that the narration fits perfectly with what you imagined. I’m sure BI will be to your liking
Well, I DO have an active imagination, but I have not achieved that level of greatness yet! I have tried it and yes, I love it.
Great! So you were one of those who ordered a sample at the pre-release special offer? Glad to hear that you love it 😀
Oddly enough, a lovely perfume fairy sent me a very generous sample along with the other two to come. Serendipity 🙂
Ooh, and after reading the narrative again, I realized that they had cleverly used the word “everlasting” which many people call immortelle, as well as “straw flower.”
A very generous fairy. By “the other two to come” you mean the sandalwood AC and sth else or something different??
Yes, immortelle is sometimes called an everlasting flower, they hid it in the story 😉
Nice review, Lucas. I look forward to testing this perfume. The only serious complaint I have: I want those small bottles! They cannot make me buy a big (200 ml or even 100 ml) bottle, even if I love the perfume, I’ll buy the same 30 ml decant from somebody’s big bottle and it will be even cheaper than buying their bottle with retail price – so I’m not sure who wins.
Thank you. When you try it I’d like to know what you think about it.
That IS the problem with Collection Metal that you can’t purchase a separate 30ml bottle of it.
A 30ml decant from a big bottle will be cheaper, sure, but it won’t look as good as the brand’s 30ml petit flacon covered with metal and with a leather pouch 😉
It all depends on what you like – I love Atelier Cologne too much to own a decant – only those lovely bottles for me.
Fantastic review as always. I am putting this one on my definitely must try list! Still catching up as you can see. 🙂
Thanks, hope you like it
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