22 shades of blue, Olfactive Studio Ombre Indigo

Olfactive Studio is a niche perfume brand born from the concept of multisensorial experience that engages your vision with a photography and your sense of smell with a fragrance. It is supposed to add more life to the picture by creating the atmosphere that matches the mood of the graphic. The line was founded by Celine Verleure (who worked in the industry for years, for Kenzo for example) in the year 2010. At Esxence 2014 she presented the 6th composition in the line.

Ombre Indigo, for that’s the name of the newest perfume, starts with a very pleasant smokiness with a distant fruity aroma to it. In the next couple of minutes the fruitiness becomes a little bit stronger. Never very strong, but powerful enough to make it possible to say that it’s a plum note. Dried, smoked plum which combines the aromas of both tangy tenderness and hidden mystery. After around 15 minutes the frankincense makes it to the top of the composition, introducing some kind of dusted, mystic fragrance that has a very noticeable substance, yet on skin it feels really airy. It’s like olibanum smokes were flying around you in circles.

Another 15 minutes later Ombre Indigo starts rearranging. The accord of a smoked plum is almost completely gone, there’s still some frankincense here but it’s becoming lighter and lighter. This fragrance now becomes more aromatic. Dry vetiver roots introduce a nice feeling of woods and wooden shavings, adding a volume to the sillage. Later on vetiver becomes less prominent and because of the papyrus, the thing becomes more dry and brittle, like a branch that hasn’t seen water in many months. Close to the end of 1st hour the perfume gains strength.

After the aromatic aspect of vetiver subsides I could smell a lot of leather in the composition of Olfactive Studio Ombre Indigo. However, it wasn’t the leather that resembles of jackets, bags, even shoes. Leather accord in this perfume has a quite raw feeling to it, like it hasn’t been tanned yet and dyed with some dark (probably black) pigment. Slightly sweet and mildly spicy saffron note made it definitely easier to operate with the leather note to make it more approachable. The resin of benzoin adds a vibe that on my skin smells a little bit like a burnt caramel with some salt sprinkled on top. In made this stage more balmy and heavier, but not overwhelming.

For the next few hours I could smell most of the composition of Ombre Indigo, except plum probably. For some time the accords remained still, they were not moving at all, but at some point they started rearranging, the borders between each note were harder and harder to notice. It kind of felt like the entire blend was becoming “tighter” with all of the notes slowly turning into one complex note built of many different ingredients. For all this time the perfume was quite enjoyable and very easy to like in my opinion. You can clearly see the mastery of a perfumer and her idea.

When the notes merged into one kind of being, the overall impression given by the fragrance was that it smells warm and spicy, with occasional hints of smoky, resinous and sweet aromatic sensations. But there were still few more notes to appear in the drydown. The drydown came to me after 5-6 hours from the moment of when I sprayed Ombre Indigo on my wrist. Now I could finally smell the tuberose accord! For this perfume everyone was talking “resins and tuberose” – and here it is! If brings tranquil feeling of white flowers, the air saturated with intoxicated aroma of silky petals.

I don’t know exactly how did that happen but when tuberose appeared the smoky vibe of resins and olibanum somehow became stronger. Like they were given one more breath before they leave for good. The accord of ambergris brought some warm mineral scent, reminding me of warm rocks. It also brought some ambery tones. The finish of Ombre Indigo is aromatic and green thanks to petit grain leaves which were placed on a musky base which is rather transparent and seems neutral to me.

Ombre Indigo by Olfactive Studio is a perfume of contrasts and contradictions. The chiaroscuro effect is like a visit to a parallel universe – in this fragrance lighter notes seam heavy and heavier notes seem lighter. It’s kind of like defying gravity, right? But the overall effect is superb, it’s fantastic. To me this new fragrance is the best scent in the line of Celine Verleure. Though she said it’s also probably the most challenging one. Ombre Indigo (Blue Shadow) has a longevity that makes it last through the day and it’s sillage is above average but shrinks after w few hours.

Since the shadow is blue, the juice of this fragrance has been colored with real indigo, it kind of looks like a sapphire. The perfumer who developed Ombre Indigo is Mylene Alran and the photographer who shot a picture that served as an inspiration for this scent is Gustavo Pellizzon. Fragrance is in a concentration of eau de parfum and it’s available in 50 ml and 100 ml bottles.

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16 thoughts on “22 shades of blue, Olfactive Studio Ombre Indigo

  1. jillie says:

    I had to giggle when you say that there is real indigo in this – I remember wearing a new pair of jeans and finding they had died my legs navy! Hopefully this juice doesn’t stain the skin …..

    Seems like a very interesting fragrance and – oh joy – it has longevity! It’s great to read about something as different as this, thank you.

    • lucasai says:

      It once happened to me too! I was a kid, wore a new pair of jeans and that day it was raining later and I had no umbrella… My legs were blue when I came back home. No, Ombre Indigo shouldn’t stain the skin but it can stain clothes…

      I find Ombre Indigo to be the best scent from this house so far, a very good job and interesting fragrance. And yes, something different.

  2. jujy54 says:

    Fantastic writing, lucasai. A scent journey in words.

  3. Holly says:

    Gorgeous review. I keep thinking of a painting that I initially don’t like or “get” but am drawn to anyway. Honestly, a lot of the notes are not appealing to me: smoky, fruity, plum, raw leather, benzoin, ambergris and my nemesis thus far, tuberose. Eek! However, you have painted a very enticing picture with this review.

    • lucasai says:

      Thank you so much Holly. I understand that this perfume might have many notes which are not appealing to you but I hope this won’t stop you from giving it a try. You’re not risking anything, in the wprost case you’ll scrub it off

  4. Mary K says:

    The plum and the vetiver make this sound like something I’d want to try. Also, it would be interesting to see that blue juice! I have purchased jeans where the tag says to wash before wearing. In those cases, I did exactly that (and probably avoided having my skin turn blue).

    • lucasai says:

      The blue juice is gorgeous. When I got 3 samples it didn’t look any spectaculat, but I merged them into one smaller decants and believe me, 3 mililiters in a glass atomizer did look much more blue 🙂

  5. hajusuuri says:

    Nice review, Lucas. I am waiting for my decant and I am looking forward to trying it out!

    Speaking of pigments and staining…I once wore a white suit jacket and carried a black Coach bag cross-body style. Well, I got caught in the rain. When I got home, I noticed that there was a black gash around the the blazer where the straps were. Coach offered to dry clean the jacket and replace the bag (it was a bad dye batch because Coach or any other bags except for the cheapest of the cheapest should never do that). I ended up getting replacement value for my jacket because the dry cleaning did not remove the stain!

    • lucasai says:

      Thank you sweetie! Hope that it will turn out that you’ll enjoy your decant.

      Whoa, what a terrible story about staining. Glad that Coach replaced your bag for the right one and sorry about the blazer – but it’s good you got a refund for it.

  6. Parfumista says:

    I expected to like this when reading the notes but trying it on was a real letdown. On me it’s muddled, unbalanced and annoying, just another “generic niche” featuring that smoky note which seems to be increasingly popular. I suspect Ombre Indigo performs better on male skin as it IMO lends more to the masculine side.

  7. […] reading: Now Smell This and Chemist In A Bottle Olfactive Studio has a World Page where you can order wherever you are. First In Fragrance has […]

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