Olfactive Studio is a niche perfume brand born from the concept of multisensorial experience that engages your vision with a photography and your sense of smell with a fragrance. It is supposed to add more life to the picture by creating the atmosphere that matches the mood of the graphic. The line was founded by Celine Verleure (who worked in the industry for years, for Kenzo for example) in the year 2010. At Esxence 2014 she presented the 6th composition in the line.
Ombre Indigo, for that’s the name of the newest perfume, starts with a very pleasant smokiness with a distant fruity aroma to it. In the next couple of minutes the fruitiness becomes a little bit stronger. Never very strong, but powerful enough to make it possible to say that it’s a plum note. Dried, smoked plum which combines the aromas of both tangy tenderness and hidden mystery. After around 15 minutes the frankincense makes it to the top of the composition, introducing some kind of dusted, mystic fragrance that has a very noticeable substance, yet on skin it feels really airy. It’s like olibanum smokes were flying around you in circles.
Another 15 minutes later Ombre Indigo starts rearranging. The accord of a smoked plum is almost completely gone, there’s still some frankincense here but it’s becoming lighter and lighter. This fragrance now becomes more aromatic. Dry vetiver roots introduce a nice feeling of woods and wooden shavings, adding a volume to the sillage. Later on vetiver becomes less prominent and because of the papyrus, the thing becomes more dry and brittle, like a branch that hasn’t seen water in many months. Close to the end of 1st hour the perfume gains strength.
After the aromatic aspect of vetiver subsides I could smell a lot of leather in the composition of Olfactive Studio Ombre Indigo. However, it wasn’t the leather that resembles of jackets, bags, even shoes. Leather accord in this perfume has a quite raw feeling to it, like it hasn’t been tanned yet and dyed with some dark (probably black) pigment. Slightly sweet and mildly spicy saffron note made it definitely easier to operate with the leather note to make it more approachable. The resin of benzoin adds a vibe that on my skin smells a little bit like a burnt caramel with some salt sprinkled on top. In made this stage more balmy and heavier, but not overwhelming.
For the next few hours I could smell most of the composition of Ombre Indigo, except plum probably. For some time the accords remained still, they were not moving at all, but at some point they started rearranging, the borders between each note were harder and harder to notice. It kind of felt like the entire blend was becoming “tighter” with all of the notes slowly turning into one complex note built of many different ingredients. For all this time the perfume was quite enjoyable and very easy to like in my opinion. You can clearly see the mastery of a perfumer and her idea.
When the notes merged into one kind of being, the overall impression given by the fragrance was that it smells warm and spicy, with occasional hints of smoky, resinous and sweet aromatic sensations. But there were still few more notes to appear in the drydown. The drydown came to me after 5-6 hours from the moment of when I sprayed Ombre Indigo on my wrist. Now I could finally smell the tuberose accord! For this perfume everyone was talking “resins and tuberose” – and here it is! If brings tranquil feeling of white flowers, the air saturated with intoxicated aroma of silky petals.
I don’t know exactly how did that happen but when tuberose appeared the smoky vibe of resins and olibanum somehow became stronger. Like they were given one more breath before they leave for good. The accord of ambergris brought some warm mineral scent, reminding me of warm rocks. It also brought some ambery tones. The finish of Ombre Indigo is aromatic and green thanks to petit grain leaves which were placed on a musky base which is rather transparent and seems neutral to me.
Ombre Indigo by Olfactive Studio is a perfume of contrasts and contradictions. The chiaroscuro effect is like a visit to a parallel universe – in this fragrance lighter notes seam heavy and heavier notes seem lighter. It’s kind of like defying gravity, right? But the overall effect is superb, it’s fantastic. To me this new fragrance is the best scent in the line of Celine Verleure. Though she said it’s also probably the most challenging one. Ombre Indigo (Blue Shadow) has a longevity that makes it last through the day and it’s sillage is above average but shrinks after w few hours.
Since the shadow is blue, the juice of this fragrance has been colored with real indigo, it kind of looks like a sapphire. The perfumer who developed Ombre Indigo is Mylene Alran and the photographer who shot a picture that served as an inspiration for this scent is Gustavo Pellizzon. Fragrance is in a concentration of eau de parfum and it’s available in 50 ml and 100 ml bottles.