The brand of Au Pays de la Fleur d’Oranger (that’s a long name!) is not a typical brand in the perfume industry because fragrance is not the main profile of the brand. After being established in 1998 by Virginie Roux and Antoine Roux the brand’s mainly focused on creating cosmetics and different body products. They wandered onto perfume territory in 2005 when they launched their first fragrance dedicated to neroli. Later a few more neroli scents were introduced and in 2013 a new line, Collection Les Inedits debuted with new fragrances and new perfume materials.
The latest addition to this collection are two scents which were introduced in March during Esxence perfume fair in Milan. Their names are Rose Irisee, highlighting the combined notes of iris and rose, and Violette Sacree which will be reviewed right now. Composition of this fragrance starts in a very subtle way. The notes reveal slowly and they become stronger in a lazy way. At first I could smell some woods. They were substantial and light at the same time. The scent that emanates from the skin kind of makes me think of a raw, not planed wooden board. After a while this feeling gets stronger and because of the vetiver accord everything feels very dimensional, spacious.
The woody aspect of Violette Sacree lasted on me for around 30 minutes and then the perfume started to shift. After that time the violet note starts dominating when it comes to the forefront. At first it’s really powdery, what nicely corresponds with the woody aroma from the opening. In a matter of few minutes the powder like vibe grows stronger and stronger, for a while it has the cosmetic vibe of a face powder or a blush. There’s even a little bit of sweetness to that.
Then something hard to imagine happens. At the end of 1st hour of wearing Au Pays de la Fleur d’Oranger Violette Sacreethere’s the moment when suddenly almost the entire powdery sensation disappears and what is left are beautiful flowers. Flowery elements of violet have a little bit of an aquatic and velvety vibe with a noticeable crispness of a violet leaf. Some time later a confectionery vibe appears creating an illusory feeling of candied petals or some kind of a candy flavoured with violet. It’s very interesting and easy to love. There’s also a hint of bergamot which adds the acidic and juicy flavor to the composition.
When this unexpected sweet accord that surrounds the violet flowers subsides, I start to smell the incense molecules. The question is – how did the brand create incense in this composition? Neither incense nor frankincense are listed officially in the notes, so I suppose this could be some sort of smoked woods, especially cedar. The vibe that I get is earthy, not very cold, reminiscent of the inside of the old wooden church where the air is filled with a specific aroma of church incense and wooden boards which are “soaked” with this fragrance.
The so-called “incense” accord of Violette Sacree could be a little bit stronger but in a way it is, it is nice as well. Could be a nice option for those who are at the stage of learning to like incense perfume compositions. It’s calm and spiritual, definitely not a screamer or an exorcist kind of fume. After 4 hours of smelling some incense, violets and woods the perfume makes a slight progression by becoming more floral. A dewy rose with bright pink petals is nicely pronounced but the longevity of this particular accord lacks a lot in terms of being a bit unnatural and too watered down. Is it still a rose or just a rose-water?
Just a bit later a white flower bouquet appears on my skin. It consists of jasmine which brinks quite clean and intensive floral vibe with a bit of indole. Those indole molecules also have something slightly animalic in them. What I smell are definitely not just flowers. There’s also some orange blossoms to add a bright and citric qualities. Violette Sacree is a happier fragrance thanks to them. Oh, and there’s a bit of lily of the valley here as well. I don’t really like muguet accord in perfumes. In here it is a bit green, sweet and if it lasted any longer on my skin I would probably get a headache.
The finale of the fragrance is a clean, plush and fluffy musk from the family of white musk (synthetics) I suppose. It’s soft and a bit milky with a vanillic facet. All in all the perfume is quite intriguing and unusual. It does offer some positive emotions but there are also parts that could be improved for a better performance. Violette Sacree has a moderate sillage and an average longevity of 6-8 hours. The compositon was mastered by Jean-Claude Gigodot. Available as 100ml EdP.