In the perfume world a niche line of Vero Profumo doesn’t need a special introduction. Compositions created by perfumer – Vero Kern, speak for themselves and they defend themselves pretty well. The uber original and vivid personality of the brand’s founder is clearly visible in each of her perfumes and that’s probably why people love those fragrances so much. Vero has brought a new quality to this business and her creating hallmark has been appreciated by many. It’s kind of like a niche in niche. The newest perfume from Vero Profumo is a tribute to Anna Magnani. The perfume is named ROZY and it was created in 3 Vero’s signature concentrations: extrait de parfum, eau de parfum & voile d’extrait.
ROZY Voile d’Extrait, the one that landed at my doorstep, starts on my skin with this almost medicinal and highly mentholated aroma of cassis. It is very bold and powerful, like a slap in your face. After a few minutes it loses its bad temper and becomes weaker but it doesn’t disappear completely. This aroma highly reminds me of the cassis chewing gum, as soon as you crack it in your mouth, the highly minty cassis aroma goes right up your sinuses.
15 minutes later the rose makes a huge entrance, it comes in like a diva in a long black cape. The rose accord in ROZY has a very oriental context in my opinion, though it also has some elements of the European perfumery style. The character of the orient probably comes from the spicy notes. I can only guess that there’s some cardamom and nutmeg. Ah, and probably some cinnamon? Or maybe it’s a clove… The composition is blended in such a way that none of the spicy notes is obvious to me. This perfume is heck of a riddle.
The European style of this perfume is visible to me mostly in the fact that while rose and spices dominate the composition of ROZY, they don’t really smell like they were used in overdose. There’s definitely no cloying sensation in the new Vero Kern scent. After a while a saturation of flowers goes up to the dangerous levels when tuberose appears. I have never been a fan of tuberose and in this perfume there’s something really animalic about this note and I don’t know what it is. At first I could smell the floral blend of rose and tuberose that was very intensive and big. Then one moment this animalic, kind of skanky vibe appeared out of no-where.
As I was writing this review, smelling my wrist every half a minute or even more often, I was trying to identify the source of the animalic qualities in ROZY Voile d’Extrait. The high concentration of jasmine with indole can bring such a feeling, but jasmine is not mentioned in the notes. Maybe it’s the signature of Vero Kern, the passionfruit? In Onda it brought a really dirty animalic qualities. There’s also a honey accord which could add a few impressions to the wilderness that I find in this perfume composition as it’s definitely not a luminous, sweet and sticky honey I know from a couple of other perfumes. The feeling of rose and the “animals” is very persistent and it lasts for many hours until it slowly weakens.
Many hours later the rose accord was still going pretty strong and the animalic elements in the composition were much harder to notice. The addition of sandalwood in the drydown was a perfect move from Vero Kern when she was creating ROZY. It feels like a bunch of roses lying on the woody base. The sandalwood chord is creamy and smooth with some occasional splinters found on the surface. Labdanum adds a beautiful smoky feeling that is deep, magical, mystical and it envelops you in a specific kind of comfort. A hint of spices is still playing in the background, warming up the blend. I’m not going to lie, this perfume is a challenge to me and I’m not sure I’m willing to take it.
Vero Profumo ROZY Voile d’Extrait is a perfume of an enormous sillage. While I was testing it, a single spray on my wrist managed to fill the room with the fragrance in a matter of minutes. My mum also noticed that I’m leaving a very intensive trail of perfume behind me. The longevity of ROZY is outstanding, 10 hours is the minimum that I got; I could even smell it after taking a shower. I very much appreciate this work of Vero Kern, who gave rose a new face in perfumery. We didn’t have such perfume so far. A very good job Mrs Kern.
My favourite part of ROZY was the drydown phase when rose was still intensive and velvety and it was combined with the refined beauty and substance of sandalwood and the smokiness of labdanum. The hardest part for me was the intensive animalic feeling, which sadly (to me) lasts for the longest part of this perfume’s life. As much as I appreciate the fragrance, I don’t think this is a scent for me. And I’m sorry for that. Voile d’Extrait concentration of this fragrance comes in 50 ml bottles. Eau de parfum is available in the same size. Extrait de parfum comes in 7,5 ml or 15 ml.
[note] pictures: my own, all rights reserved. The review was based on the ROZY Vd’E bottle I won in a Facebook contest organized by Vero Profumo and Freddie Albrighton (Smellythoughts).