With every fragrance launched by Parfum d’Empire, we’re taken on a trip to different parts of the world. Often that trip also involves going back in time. Founder and perfumer of this maison, Marc-Antoine Corticchiato gives us a lesson of history with his scents and he brings the olfactive impressions of times and places. After having a little break (mind that his last perfume, Azemour launched in 2011, I’m not counting the limited Musc Tonkin extrait) he’s back with a new thing.
The island of Corsica, Corticchiato’s homeland, often called “the island of beauty” is the object of inspiration for a new perfume but it’s not the first time when a perfumer decided to source the ideas from a place where he was born and where he grew up. First tribute to this picturesque island was the creation of Eau de Gloire. The latter one was more of a story about Napoleon Bonaparte and his followers. The new composition, Corsica Furiosa marks an exploration of the flora of this Mediterranean region. We get to experience the surroundings of Corticchiato’s childhood.
On my skin Parfum d’Empire Corsica Furiosa opens with a straightforward aroma of fig leaves. There’s some intensive verdancy right after spraying. The green effect is very bright and intensive. The opening has a crispy character but in the next 15 minutes the feeling becomes much more juicy with a lot of green sap. There’s also a moment at 20 minutes when the aroma becomes more milky with a hint of sweetness. Here I have to say that my nose got fooled – officially there’s no fig leaf in this perfume but there is… a tomato leaf. So if you dislike fig leaves, fret not, because it’s not this.
At 30 minutes mark the composition becomes richer. Next to the obvious greenness of Corsica Furiosa, now the perfume gains an aromatic facet. Lentisque, also known as mastic, the resin obtained from the evergreen shrub of Pistacia lentiscus is the main star of this fragrance. It brings happy and truly Mediterranean aroma of Corsican flora. Its green and resinous aroma that brings dry leaves and twigs to my mind creates a really big volume. I like the way it smells – not pungent at all, presented in a nice manner. There’s also something dusty about it, like the open space deserted area.
Freshly cut grass accord with a nice feeling of being wet from the morning dew, it continues the idea of green feeling that was the main idea in creating Corsica Furiosa. Later on you can smell the lovely herbal and a little bit mentholated aroma of nepita – a wild mint variety that grows locally there. At this point the perfume becomes a little bit more citrusy when lime accord enters the scene. It brings a nice and juicy vibe with aromatic context, I really like that!
After 3 hours some slightly metallic spiciness appears on top of the composition. It’s a pepper note which is also combined with the dry hay accord which brings the aroma of coumarine, making Parfum d’Empire Corsica Furiosa partially a fougere composition. Since some time earlier I can’t escape the feeling like there was something leathery in this scent, but such note is not mentioned in the pyramid of notes. Since this is creation made by Marc-Antoine Corticchiato, the compulsory element of the blend is an oakmoss, a signature note to every Parfum d’Empire creation he made. It has a feeling of a shrub with some roughness to it. It carries the scent that is dry and dusted but the general feeling for the perfume is that is smells fresh.
The perfume also contains the honey note which I didn’t notice. There’s also some labdanum which is responsible for giving the balsamic and slightly smoky feeling later in the drydown. Corsica Furiosa develops step by step and until it reaches the final stage, around 5 hours should pass. The perfume was presented at Esxence in Milan. When I tried it there my first thought was – “It smells similar to Eau de Gloire” and I was right, as both scents are inspired by Corsican maquis.
But these two perfumes are not identical. Eau de Gloire is more smoky and aromatic, it has lavender, tobacco and star anise. Corsica Furiosa is all about being green, green and green. Every element of its composition highlights the verdancy of the concept behind it and confirs the Mediterranean character of this new Parfum d’Empire creation. This eau de parfum was created by Marc-Antoine Corticchiato, it was launched recently and arrives to the market in the new bottle and packaging, with the only size available being 100 ml. A bad move in my opinion. For autumn the brand has scheduled another launch, of Musc Tonkin EdP which will join the regular offer after a success of a limited extrait of this perfume composition.