Each time a perfume lover, be it a blogger, be it a person who simply enjoys scents without writing about it, there are some certain emotions that accompany the moment when we get to try a perfume that is much older than ourselves, sometimes created a century or two ago. One of the feelings is sadness, that the perfume is no more around us, then, there’s curiosity, because we want to know how this perfume smells. But there’s no curiosity without anxiety – what if i fall in love with this perfume? That leads us back to sadness, because if we love it – we most probably can’t have it.
Today I want to tell you about the beauty in its pure form – it bears a name of Apres L’Ondee. This perfume was created by Jacques Guerlain and introduced in 1906, 108 years ago! This composition starts with a dewy aroma of violets. It has a watery, aquatic smell which becomes a little bit ozonic and crispy, just like there were also violet leaves, not just the flowers. Couple of minutes more and the initial feeling starts to change. The powdery elements of iris become stronger. It is a very pretty note, powdery, slightly sugary and confectionery but also deliciously creamy and floral thanks to the heliotrope accord which appears on the skin just a few minutes after iris marks its entrance. The yellow pollen of mimosa adds a touch of yellow floral elements, highlighting the iris even more.
Anise (not the star anise) and orris root are responsible for brining the softest, most refined and luxurious woody aroma to the composition. It does smell of woods, but not the wild woods, these woods are peaceful, harmonious and quiet like the forest just before the dawn, until the birds awake the entire place with their happy chirping. Carnation adds a toned down spiciness and warmth to the structure of Apres L’Ondee, providing a nice and smooth transition from the woody notes. Close to the end of first hour some very light balsamic elements start to emerge from the composition. We have some benzoin here which is made very delicious and kind of custardy with the use of ylang-ylang note which gave it an additional effect of being smooth and creamy. A luminous amber molecules draw attention to this stage, it totally deserves your focus.
At 3 hours mark you can smell the sandalwood. In Apres L’Ondee this note is presented in a smooth, shiny and polished way. It smells very creamy and inviting. The addition of vanilla to this stage give it an almost gourmand style, but it’s just an impression, as the iris and the watery aspect of violet flowers keep it far away from becoming a foody fragrance. At this point I also start to smell neroli. It adds a wonderful and sunny vibe to the composition, giving you a feeling of having a great summer the moment you wear it. After a while you can detect the hints of rose – its petals are pale pink and covered with droplets of morning dew, which shine like little diamonds in the rays of light. Jasmine is harder to notice in this Guerlain fragrance but in the late drydown it’s a bit easier to smell the white petals. Other notes mentioned at fragrantica are cassis, lemon, bergamot and vetiver but I didn’t smell them, probably because the notes are really well blended.
Guerlain Apres L’Ondee is a beautiful perfume – delicate, ethereal and sublime. What is really special about it is the fact that although it contains some notes which are heavier and more substantial, the whole perfume feels very airy and soft. This perfume brings to mind the happy memories or the happy days ahead, in the spring or summer of course. On my skin Apres L’Ondee had a lasting power between 4 and 6 hours. It’s also worth to mention that this creation doesn’t project much – it’s the kind of perfume that melts with your skin, creating a thin layer of scent just above it, so that you can enjoy it on your own, or let the others enjoy it, if they get close enough. Apres L’Ondee was available as parfum or eau de toilette. The latter is rare but possible to get.
[note] iris in dew drops photo is from here