Morning dew, Guerlain Apres L’Ondee

Each time a perfume lover, be it a blogger, be it a person who simply enjoys scents without writing about it, there are some certain emotions that accompany the moment when we get to try a perfume that is much older than ourselves, sometimes created a century or two ago. One of the feelings is sadness, that the perfume is no more around us, then, there’s curiosity, because we want to know how this perfume smells. But there’s no curiosity without anxiety – what if i fall in love with this perfume? That leads us back to sadness, because if we love it – we most probably can’t have it.

Today I want to tell you about the beauty in its pure form – it bears a name of Apres L’Ondee. This perfume was created by Jacques Guerlain and introduced in 1906, 108 years ago! This composition starts with a dewy aroma of  violets. It has a watery, aquatic smell which becomes a little bit ozonic and crispy, just like there were also violet leaves, not just the flowers. Couple of minutes more and the initial feeling starts to change. The powdery elements of iris become stronger. It is a very pretty note, powdery, slightly sugary and confectionery but also deliciously creamy and floral thanks to the heliotrope accord which appears on the skin just a few minutes after iris marks its entrance. The yellow pollen of mimosa adds a touch of yellow floral elements, highlighting the iris even more.

Anise (not the star anise) and orris root are responsible for brining the softest, most refined and luxurious woody aroma to the composition. It does smell of woods, but not the wild woods, these woods are peaceful, harmonious and quiet like the forest just before the dawn, until the birds awake the entire place with their happy chirping. Carnation adds a toned down spiciness and warmth to the structure of Apres L’Ondee, providing a nice and smooth transition from the woody notes. Close to the end of first hour some very light balsamic elements start to emerge from the composition. We have some benzoin here which is made very delicious and kind of custardy with the use of ylang-ylang note which gave it an additional effect of being smooth and creamy. A luminous amber molecules draw attention to this stage, it totally deserves your focus.

At 3 hours mark you can smell the sandalwood. In Apres L’Ondee this note is presented in a smooth, shiny and polished way. It smells very creamy and inviting. The addition of vanilla to this stage give it an almost gourmand style, but it’s just an impression, as the iris and the watery aspect of violet flowers keep it far away from becoming a foody fragrance. At this point I also start to smell neroli. It adds a wonderful and sunny vibe to the composition, giving you a feeling of having a great summer the moment you wear it. After a while you can detect the hints of rose – its petals are pale pink and covered with droplets of morning dew, which shine like little diamonds in the rays of light. Jasmine is harder to notice in this Guerlain fragrance but in the late drydown it’s a bit easier to smell the white petals. Other notes mentioned at fragrantica are cassis, lemon, bergamot and vetiver but I didn’t smell them, probably because the notes are really well blended.

Guerlain Apres L’Ondee is a beautiful perfume – delicate, ethereal and sublime. What is really special about it is the fact that although it contains some notes which are heavier and more substantial, the whole perfume feels very airy and soft. This perfume brings to mind the happy memories or the happy days ahead, in the spring or summer of course. On my skin Apres L’Ondee had a lasting power between 4 and 6 hours. It’s also worth to mention that this creation doesn’t project much – it’s the kind of perfume that melts with your skin, creating a thin layer of scent just above it, so that you can enjoy it on your own, or let the others enjoy it, if they get close enough. Apres L’Ondee was available as parfum or eau de toilette. The latter is rare but possible to get.

[note] iris in dew drops photo is from here

Advertisements
Tagged , ,

26 thoughts on “Morning dew, Guerlain Apres L’Ondee

  1. Undina says:

    As we established earlier ; – ), we feel the same about testing discontinued perfumes. But I didn’t know that Apres L’Ondee was one of those when I tested it. Luckily for me, it’s not my cup of tea. And unlike many other perfumes that I don’t want to wear but can appreciate, in the couple of tests I couldn’t figure out what exactly others might “see” in it – though I do know that many people liked Apres L’Ondee. So I feel sad on their behalf. Why do company discontinue perfumes?! Not fair!

    • lucasai says:

      You test them at your own risk. But with Apres L’Ondee it is still possible to get in the swapping groups etc.
      I see, was there something you especially didn’t like about it? So it was a bit difficult for you to see through it?
      I don’t know why the perfumes are discontinued… they don’t sell well, don’t suit the era?

  2. What a beautiful review Lucas! I didn’t take to Apres L’Ondee straight away but I persevered and now I adore it as the masterpiece that it is. Rumour has it that Mr Hard-To-Please Karl Lagerfeld wears it, so it must be the best if he likes it!

    best wishes
    Samantha

    • lucasai says:

      Hi Sam, thank you so much. Glad you decided to try this beauty and that you love it. Do you have some more of it? I only have a small sample, need to get some more.
      If that about Lagerfeld is true then this must be a special perfume

  3. jillie says:

    This has to be one of the best reviews of Apres that I have read! I wish I had your nose, Lucas, to be able to detect all those notes. I have the last but one reformulation of the eau de toilette. I find it quite austere, but given my love of violets, I do like it. It isn’t one of my loves, but I often wonder if that would be different if I had ever smelt the older versions or the extrait. I am not surprised that Mr Lagerfeld likes it so much as I think I can see some very tiny echoes of Apres in his Sun Moon Stars, which also echoes (much more so) Eternity. The edt is not too hard to find here in the UK – even John Lewis sells it!

    • lucasai says:

      Thank you sweetie, those words are very flattering! Glad that you have a bottle, and even if it’s the newer version that you still enjoy it. I would enjoy it as well but Apres L’Ondee is not that easy to find in Poland. I wish I could smell the vintage formulation. Extrait would be heavenly I guess.

  4. I love your review. Very heartfelt. I felt like I was testing it myself. I’m loving your Guerlain week 🙂

  5. Anka says:

    Ah, how wonderful, you reviewed my favorite Guerlain! This is a frangrance which really touches my heart. Maybe it’s because of this peaceful, harmonious and quiete atmosphere you described so well. And this “almost gourmand style” is so interesting for a fragrance composed in 1906!
    Strangely, I don’t wear Apres L’Ondée very often – mostly in spring – but after reading your magnifique critique I immediately went to my bottle and now I indulge myself in it. It’s devilishly hot and humid here today but the morning dew makes for a perfect contrast.

    • lucasai says:

      Hi Anka! I’m glad I could satisfy the Guerlain lover inside you by reviewing your favorite scent from the house.
      Apres L’Ondee is really serene and peaceful and there’s something interesting about that slightly gourmand vibe.
      I think this is not a fragrance for a daily wear. I would wear it sometimes after the shower, or very early in the morning before I go out and run some errands.
      We just got a lot of rain today after almost two weeks of dry days so I’m happy for that.
      How I envy you have a fb bottle for yourself 😀

  6. Mary K says:

    I have a tiny bit of this one and it also makes me think happy thoughts of spring and summer days. If I had a larger amount of it, I’d wear it more often but as it is, it’s something in my collection that I need to ration.

  7. hajusuuri says:

    Hello dearest Lucas. What a lovely review! I did not take to this right away but have not dismissed it. I have to retest but if I recall, it had a sharpish, alcoholic vibe to it. I got no vanilla whatsoever. I think I also have the vintage which I will try shortly as we’ll.

  8. shellyw says:

    I mail ordered one tiny decant from a now closed web site of the vintage Apres. Beyond beautiful! The closest I have found to date for such a reaction is F. Malle En Passant. I bought a new EdT version when another person was down sizing. It is nice but not as evocative I would say. I am out-of-town visitng family for several weeks or I would go put some on right now, it would go with our afternoon thunder storm.

  9. Ania says:

    Beautiful review. I have a modern version of edt but I don’t wear it too often. Pre-spring is the time I like to wear Apres l’Ondee and Hiris. However my kids claim Apres l’Ondee smells of curry dish, not too romantic idea 🙂 It must be combination of anise and carnation/clove, both present in curry mix. Fortunately not such issues in somewhat related L’Heure Bleue.

    • lucasai says:

      Thanks Ania! You’re not the only one who doesn’t wear it regularly.
      I didn’t smell curry from Apres L’Ondee, haha. Glad that L’Heure Bleue is fine for you.

  10. Odiferess says:

    Aaaah.. divine timing for appreciating your words. I’ve just ordered myself a bottle after dithering for some time. This purchase means that 1/4 of my wardrobe now consists of Guerlain. I am surely a steroptype. Perhaps it’s the hawthorn note in Apres L’Ondee that appeals to me? I do love a good stinking hedge whiff..

    • lucasai says:

      Thank you! And congratulations on your new bottle which makes the fact that 25% of your scents are from Guerlain.
      I’m sure you will enjoy every spray!

Leave a Reply

Fill in your details below or click an icon to log in:

WordPress.com Logo

You are commenting using your WordPress.com account. Log Out / Change )

Twitter picture

You are commenting using your Twitter account. Log Out / Change )

Facebook photo

You are commenting using your Facebook account. Log Out / Change )

Google+ photo

You are commenting using your Google+ account. Log Out / Change )

Connecting to %s

%d bloggers like this: