Monday Quick Sniffs, part 25

Peety from the bit controversial Italian niche line O’Driu run by a perfumer Angelo Orazio Pregoni is an interesting creation. The authors encourage you to add 1 ml of your own urine to the bottle (filled with 99 ml of a perfume) to “personalize” it and add your own imprint. This composition opens with a very animalic and kind of urinous aroma of amber and cinnamon. This impression lasts for around 20 minutes and then it subsides, allowing Peety to turn very warm, rich and aromatic thanks to the tonka bean which was used very generously. Tonka tops the blend for at least one hour before another changes start to come up. Later you can notice some more spiciness of cinnamon and patchouli which smells like an autumn forest. Then there is this magnificent tobacco note – it’s very rich, dense and deep, slightly smoky and dry and as it spends more time on the skin it reveals a shiny layer of sweet, sticky and bit animalic honey element. The drydown is composed of smooth and creamy sandalwood with a small addition of rugged vibe from oakmoss. Peety also has a very gentle rose accord which composes really nicely with tonka and tobacco which both seem to be the strongest notes of the blend. Other notes of this scent include jasmine, mandarin orange and bitter orange. I thought that I wouldn’t like O’Driu Peety but it’s actually very pleasant after the initial phase has passed. But I would never add some pee to it. Peety launched in 2013, projects and lasts nicely.

Soleil Liquide is a fragrance from American perfume brand Memoire Liquide. It’s a very simple and minimalistic perfume which is ideal for the summertime. The fragrance opens with a big dose of neroli which brings a tidal wave of white flowers – intensive, saturated and bright. Very shortly the scent becomes more and moe citrusy. At first it brings the tart kind of citrus smell – this was provided by the grapefruit note. This stage is very aromatic and it allows you to smell both the rind and the juicy pulp of the fruit. The tart and bittery feeling becomes weaker with time and it actually starts to become sweeter later. Blood orange adds a little bit of red color to the blend, bringing the fizzy impression that is very nice and uplifting. The softness and juiciness of tangerine is the final element of this juicy citrus cocktail. In the drydown the composition still smells of citrus and neroli but it also becomes more sheer, airy and light with the hefty dose of white musk placed on a sandalwood base which is just as sheer and light.  Nice and easy to wear composition for a sunny day. This scent is from 2009.

Oriza L. Legrand Jardins d’Armide is a very classicistic perfume originating from 1909 year. The fragrance was reissued in 2013 when the brand was reborn. Right from the opening this scent has a feminine vibe. It starts with a lot of powdery notes that are dry and sweet. They bring to mind the associations with rice powder, talcum, chalk and also iris. I suppose that the violet accord in this perfume is also partially powdery. Later I smell some dewy rose slightly spiced with the smell of carnations. Tonka bean adds a nice aromatic effect, sweetened with almonds. The aromatic facet slowly evolves into more woody feeling when orris root becomes more intensive. After a few hours I start to smell something citric and light. I thought it was lemon at first but it turned out that it’s the orange blossom packed with some citric qualities. Jardins d’Armide also features wisteria accord. I have never seen or smelled wisteria so I have no idea what kind of scent it gives. After many hours this Oriza L. Legrand fragrance smells of sweet and luminous honey and very light, airy and creamy musk. The sillage if this composition is quite toned down while longevity is very good. This scent has a decadent vibe to it and it feels very feminine.

Fragrance Republic FR! 01/08 is, in my opinion, the best out of eight scents they launched by far. It’s composition starts with a very delicate and fuzzy fruity smell of apricot which becomes stronger within next 20 minutes. Then it slowly turns more green revealing the tea like qualities of osmanthus. The feeling is very sensual and also summery, like someone just served you a light breakfast consisting of seasonal fruit and lightly-brewed tea. The progress of the perfume highlights the tea note earlier, adding it more power and some verdancy as well. This is also joined by the citrus scents of lemon and bergamot – they both give a happy and juicy smell to the composition. After 3 hours it becomes crispy and a bit aquatic because of the violet leaves. The drydown has some orange flower and sambac jasmine which doesn’t bring the indolic aroma but the white floral tones, piqued by neroli. Patchouli in the finale adds more depth and provides a decent lasting power. Perfumer Jean-Christophe Herault has performed a really nice chypre for Fragrance Republic.

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28 thoughts on “Monday Quick Sniffs, part 25

  1. jilliecat says:

    Great reading for a Monday morning!

    Yeeeugh ….. no way would I add pee to anything! Although the Peety (oh! I’ve just got the pun!) sounds interesting otherwise, I am afraid that concept has put me off. Memoire Liquide seems much more me, and I am very interested indeed in Oriza as I am always on the lookout for a replacement for my beloved Le Dix – maybe this isn’t it, but I loved the vintage vibe. The FR seems good.

    I don’t know how you manage to sample and describe so many fragrances, and am always amazed that I have never heard of most of them!

    • lucasai says:

      Thanks for this lovely compliment Jillie!

      Peety is a pretty suggestive name and the concept is a bit meh but the perfume itself is really nice.

      You’d like Soleil Liquide as we love our citrus perfumes, don’t we?

      Most of Oriza perfumes were made in the past so I guess more of them have the vintagwe vibe. You should give them a try, they offer samples too.

      I don’t know, it’s just that I spend every free minute I have on sniffing and writing. And I write in advance so that I don’t have to stress to much about the fact ‘omg, I don’t have a post tyo publish this week’

      I don’t know if I choose the brands which are less known but in my opinion most of them should ring a bell 😉

  2. poodle says:

    Soleil Liquide is quite pretty. Simple, but pretty. I agree that it would be a good summery floral. I’ve considered buying it but I just don’t love it quite enough to spend the money on a full bottle.

  3. Mary K says:

    I have a sample of the Jardins d’Armide and agree; it’s powdery with some citrus. I don’t detect some of the other notes very much, but then I always have trouble getting much almond in anything (except Teint de Neige, which I read somewhere has almond alcohol – is there such a thing?) I do like almond as a note and always want it to be more there.

    Haven’t tried Peety yet, but will someday (unaltered). Soleil Liquide and 01/08 sound good to me.

  4. rickyrebarco says:

    Great reviews. I have been wanting to know something about the Memoire Liquides line so your quick sniffs are very timely. This Oriza L. Legrand also sounds well worth sampling. Thanks!

    Also, I wanted to ask you regarding your article on sun products, what do you know about a supplement (in pill form) called helio block or something like that? It’s available in the U.S. and apparently helps people resist sunburn. You take it each day you are out in the sun. Do you know how this works? I’m interested since I have lupus and I have to cover up like crazy when I go out in the sun.

    • lucasai says:

      Hi Ricky! What a lovely coincidence with Memoire Liquide and great you’re interested in Oriza.

      As far as I know (and I know a little in this matter, I’m not a pharmacist) most of those supplements contain vitamin mixes with Beta-Carotene which transforms in our bodies into vitamin A which, among many others, is responsible for fighting free radicals.

  5. Undina says:

    None of these excite me – well, at least not in a good way since Peety creates strong negative reaction: it reminds me of urinotherapy fad several decades ago.

    But, judging from their placement in this category, you weren’t too enthusiastic about these perfumes as well – so thank you for sniffing since now I do not have to ; -)

    • lucasai says:

      I see. Seems that Peety is too controversial to most.

      You know, MQS is not always about perfumes that I don’t like. Sometimes a perfume is too simple to write a long elaborate on it

      • Undina says:

        I didn’t imply you disliked them : -) It’s just that usually we want to write separate posts on perfumes that move us – be that a positive or a negative “move”.

        • lucasai says:

          True that. Individual posts for perfumes mean they triggered some emotions but not always love. I sometimes can write about perfume I appreciate but didn’t like

  6. rictor07 says:

    You of all people are equipped to pee in peety, what with the beakers and pipettes you must have lying around to get exactly 1ml of it. Me, i’d have to use a juice glass, and then try to slowly pour it and watch it instead run down the outside of the damn glass and onto my shoes and carpet.

    Maybe a fragrant way to treat jellyfish stings, but a really stupid idea overall.

  7. Laurels says:

    Your reviews, on top of Kafka’s and a couple of others, have definitely put Peety (although I loathe that name) and Jardin d’Armide on my “to try” list. If you like Peety (ugh) despite its apparent heaviness, it must really be something special.

  8. hajusuuri says:

    MONDAY.QUICK.SNIFFS!!! Do you see me doing the happy dance. These all sound good. I have a sample of Jardins d’Armide and I am looking forward to trying it!

  9. I would never add my own urine to a perfume . . . unless . . . I didn’t buy that perfume with my own money and someone paid me to pee in the bottle.

    Also, I’m not sure how I feel about spraying myself with my own urine…

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