During my perfume trip to Milan earlier this year I got to meet many wonderful people. Among them were these two ladies, Regine Droin – the mother and Cerine Vasseur – the daughter. Two of them are passionate about fragrant things and they decided to create a perfume collection. That’s how Evody Parfums was founded. At Esxence they presented a new series of scents, consisting of three fragrances that have more oriental character and are focused on ingredients such as rose, spices and incense. Collection d’Ailleurs, the Collection of Somewhere Else offers a short trip to the East. Autumn days are coming and these 3 scents will be very suitable then.
Noir d’Orient is an incredibly warm, cozy and enveloping perfume. It begins with this magnificent scent of cloves that is a little bit dry, intensively spicy but at the same time it has a very friendly and inviting aura when you smell it on the skin. Very shortly the cinnamon follows and it intensifies the spicy experience. This accord makes the perfume vibrate, it’s like a tingling of the tongue when you eat a cinnamon roll. There is also certain sweetness, really mild, mingling in the background.
After some time Evody Parfums Noir d’Orient gains a balsamic texture which is a little bit more dense and heavy, yet not too heavy. The combination of patchouli and incense introduced a lovely feeling of the smokiness. The impression of it is a bit cold at first but really soon the spices blend together with this combo and the smoke becomes warmer. To me this particular smell is reminiscent of the old wooden churches, like those you can visit in the Tatra Mountains, especially in Zakopane. Every wooden wall there smells of incense. I really like the scent like that.
Moreover the patchouli accord adds depth to this composition. The perfume develops even more spiciness after some time but it’s not as prominent as at the beginning and there are no specific spices that would dominate over the rest of Noir d’Orient. After a few hours the scent gains an additional portion of sweetness and a bit of booze. Rum is the note that marks the drydown phase of this fragrance. It’s bright, nicely saturated, rich and warm. This is a very embracing perfume.
D’Ame de Pique (eng. Queen of Spades) is centered around the rose accord. In my opinion it’s more european than middle-east-style. It’s not dark or velvety and rich. I find it to be more pale, not exactly pink but not red either. There is something fuzzy and plushy about it that I really like in this note. Shortly after the rose appears a raspberry note follows it. It has a typical ‘wild’ fruits character, it adds a nice portion of sweetness and a little bit of green aroma as well.
After a longer period of time the fruity phase becomes a softer and more juicy, kind of watery, all because of the pear note that adds more freshness and spring character to the composition of D’Ame de Pique. There is also a little bit of cassis that adds that blackcurrant leaf vibe that is slightly mentholated, but this impression is very fleeting and disappears completely when sandalwood appears on top of the composition. It brings a lovely richness filled with milky, lactonic molecules that make you think of whipped cream, meringue and all creamy things that you can eat.
Vanilla adds a finishing touch which provides a powdery feeling which is nice but it doesn’t really add anything new to this composition. As much as I’m a rose lover I find D’Ame de Pique to be a little bit too quiet and shy to make a lasting impression on people who admire different faces of rose in perfume. But if someone seeks a safe fragrance that is balanced between oriental and european style, this could be a great option for them. I gave it a try and it’s enough for me…
When you hear that the perfume is named Ombree Fumee the first think that would probably come to your mind is ‘oh, this must be an incense perfume’ and in most cases you’d be right. But not this time. The third composition in Evody Collection d’Ailleurs is mostly about… vetiver! What a surprise. The composition sets of in a woody way, revealing the vetiver chord right at the very opening. It has this dry, woody and earthy aroma that after a while becomes more aromatic, creating a bigger aroma volume around the wearer. The vetiver has a slightly green background.
It is created with cypress note, which is aromatic, slightly oily and verdant. After one hour the aromatic stage created by cypress and vetiver becomes a little bit piquant, spicy thanks to the black pepper note. This accord also carries the typical metallic feeling. For a while Ombree Fumee remains linear but after another 1 hour some additional notes start to appear.
Tonka bean is among them but to my surprise it doesn’t introduce the aromatic and creamy facet with hints of spiciness we all know from many other perfumes featuring tonka. In this perfume it smells dry and a bit rugged. Possibly because of the ambergris note that appears not long later, adding the mineral vibe to the perfume. There’s also something slightly salty about it (like it indicated that ambergris comes from the ocean). The drydown of Ombree Fumee has a lot of musk that is smelling animalic, like a sweaty human body but in an acceptable level.
Collection d’Ailleurs from Evody Parfums was created by perfumer [will update] All fragrances are made in eau de parfum concentration, they come in 50 ml bottles. The bottle design is the same as for the earlier fragrances, the only difference being that bottles are brown-ish with a gold hue instead of black. These compositions have moderate sillage and they last for around 6-8 hours.