Have you ever been to Rome? I haven’t been there yet but I know that I will visit the place one day. Just a thought of having a walk around the city that has over 2000 years is exciting, not to mention the sights you might visit there. All of the basilica, forum romanum, Pantheon and beaitufl fountains. Apart from being a capitol of Italy, Rome is also a house for many niche perfume brands, among them is Laboratorio Olfattivo, founded in 2010. One of their two 2013 releases is Kashnoir.
Laboratorio Olfattivo Kashnoir is a fragrance that starts in a very aromatic way. The earliest whiff of this perfume unveils a beautiful combination of heliotrope and lavender. Lavender has a rather dry and minimally herbal aroma that is enhanced by the scent of heliotrope which is very rich and creamy. It adds a volume to the composition also making it easy to approach. Then the lemon appears, bright and juicy – providing the optimistic character already known from Noblige.
After around 30 minutes the perfume changes and it’s quite a big change. From soft and creamy lavender-heliotrope combination which was rather clean, aromatic and a bit soapy, Kashnoir transforms into a more substantial creation that smells balsamic and slightly resinous with the accord of benzoin. There is a little bit of caramely sweetness to it as well but the balmy vibe is the dominating one. Some time later the scent of orange blossom appears from the deeper parts of this fragrance structure. For a certain amount of time they give a nice floral vibe typical to fleur d’oranger but then the flowers immerse in the benzoin, the aromas entwine and blend into one.
For the next couple of hours Kashnoir from Laboratorio Olfattivo offers the mixture of floral and resinous tones. Sometimes the heliotrope becomes slightly stronger bringing the creamy sensation back, the other time it’s benzoin that is on top of the composition. One way or another the perfume smells really good. After some time I begin to detect some kind of a powdery vibe. After some time when the other notes (especially heliotrope) dissipate, it becomes more clear for the nose to determine that it was a vanilla accord. After a while it becomes more plush and fluffy.
To contrast the softer style provided by the vanilla note, Kashnoir also contains the accord of coriander. It adds a very nice touch of spiciness which is not exactly warm (since coriander is considered a cold spice, just like cardamom) but it doesn’t introduce a cold feeling either. Lets say that the temperature given by this note is moderate. It is also strengthened by some patchouli that is a little bit earthy and woody, nothing to be afraid of in my opinion. There is also a little bit of rose which tries to get some attention of the person who wears this perfume but it has a hard job to make it since other notes seem to be dominating.
But at some point even the rose makes it to the top and it can be detected from the perfume when you smell it from up close. Additional notes of Laboratorio Olfattivo Kashnoir include bergamot that I didn’t notice. Perhaps is appeared at a similar time as lemon did and they blended together. When I smell this perfume, I don’t know why but it makes me think of autumn foliage, in various shades of yellow, red and brown. Benzoin, coriander and heliotrope create a feeling of comfort, warmth and they embrace you like a blanket – they make you think of autumn. On the other hand lemon or orange blossom allow you to keep the memories of the passing summer.
It is Cecile Zarokian who was in charge to create Kashnoir for Laboratorio Olfattivo. I have to admit that she skillfully mastered the composition, creating the original blend that connects some various aspects from a few different olfactory families in an interesting way. The perfume has a moderate sillage, leaving a delicate trail behind the wearer. The lasting power is also good as it’s around 8 hours. Kashnoir is available in eau de parfum concentration in 100ml bottles.
[note] 1st & 2nd pictures from the press, 3rd is by user JoHaness from Parfumo.net