In the perfume land there is a special group of perfume houses. What makes them special is the fact that they were established many years (if not centuries) ago but somehow they disappeared from the business for many long years. But every now and then our world gives birth to a visionnaire, a person dedicated to fragrances who makes a decision to do something big – to resurrect a historical perfume brand, bring it back to life and allow the new glory to shine upon it. Jovoy, a house originally founded in 1923 by Blanche Arvoy is one of those brands.
Ever since Jovoy was brought back to life and they started cooperating with various talented perfumers, the brand keeps offering some new creations quite regularly. Earlier this year Jovoy presented their new fragrance named L’Art de la Guerre (eng. The Art of War). This perfume starts with a nice and spicy note of immortelle. It has an interesting dry aroma that is slightly herbal but it also has some sort of syrupy vibe in the background which is typical for this note. I also detect something honey-like there as well. After a while the perfume changes.
15 minutes later the immortelle aroma slowly transforms into something sweeter, a bit tart and green. Rhubarb accord gently blooms on the skin, its power grows gradually but it never becomes too offensive. You can smell the realistic rhubarb note like it was harvested just a few minutes ago. It brings some verdancy and tartness to L’Art de la Guerre. It’s also crunchy and mouth-watering. There’s also some sweetness to it but it’s really well-balanced.
After around 30 minutes the new perfume from Jovoy presents a different side of self. The perfume becomes much drier with a dusty and a bit musty feeling. The dusty feel is brought to you by one of the spices – nutmeg, that gives this dry and slightly powdery/spicy flavor that reminds me of dust. On the other hand the musty tone is created with oakmoss scent. By smelling L’Art de la Guerre you can tell that even if it’s not the real oakmoss (I don’t know if it is) it’s very close to the real thing. Dry, dusty and a bit heady. It blends so nicely with nutmeg that later it’s hard to separate them.
Some time later this Jovoy composition starts to emanate much more masculine vibe. There is quite a lot of labdanum which adds this dark, smoky and resinous facet. There is also a nice portion of warmth and spiciness around this particular accord. After some time L’Art de la Guerre gains this specific roughness, it becomes rugged and that is additionally highlighted by the leather aroma – intensive, bit animalic with this specific, kind of chemical vibe of a tanner workshop.
The herbal character of this perfume that was at first announced by immortelle accord, is now continued by some lavender that is also more dry and herbal than fresh and floral. The note is placed on a sandalwood base which is not especially smooth. Just like the earlier stages, the woody aroma is also rough, full of splinters and it causes that the wild feeling L’Art de la Guerre has is even stronger. But even when it is that way there is something really interesting in this perfume, something that makes you want more.
Additional notes of this fragrance include bergamot, violet leaf, green apple and patchouli. I didn’t detect even traces of the first three and when it comes to patchouli, it could’ve been camouflaged as part of labdanum or leather accords. My personal feeling about Jovoy L’Art de la Guerre is that it’s a very interesting and unusual perfume. Fragrantica classifies it as oriental fougere but to me this perfume has a lot of chypre elements. When I smell this perfume my imagination adds a picture of an old attic in an old house to it. Nobody has been there for years, everything is covered with a thick layer of dust. All is hidden and forgotten. Will you find what you’re looking for?
Jovoy L’Art de la Guerre is a work of perfumer Vanina Muracchiole. It’s available in 50ml and 100ml bottles and if you order directly from Jovoy you can buy a 5ml splash bottle as a part of their Black Box (5 x 5ml). This composition is characterized by a very nice sillage that marks its presence around but is not too big and it lasts for around 8 hours.