Monday Quick Sniffs return for the Autumn season.
Esperienze Olfattive is a perfume project started by an Italian chemist (doesn’t that sound familiar?) – Roberto Dario. His artisanal creations were recently brought to perfumistas attention when Roberto was interviewed on Fragrantica. 2 weeks ago I have received a sample set of his compositions. Lavanda d’Oriente was the first perfume from the collection that I tried. It starts with a mildly herbal lavender that becomes a little bit more floral after 15 minutes. There’s some juicy bergamot sparkling in the background to add more life. After some time this lavender scent becomes more woody when vetiver and cedar wood join the composition. At some point Lavanda d’Oriente even develops a surprisingly soapy tone but it doesn’t last for long. The drydown is very pretty. There’s some soft and creamy spiciness of tonka bean entwined with labdanum for more smoky and dark sensation. Oakmoss accord adds a bit of roughness and patchouli helps to maintain this feeeling. Lavanda d’Oriente is not a complicated perfume but it does the trick if you’re after a gently spiced aromatic perfume. If only it lasted more than 3 hours on me, it would be great. Anyway, I’m still looking forward to try the other samples from this line.
Earlier this year the British house of Creed has introduced a new collection of scents under the name of Acqua Originale. Compositions under these labels are meant to be lighter scents which explore the basic perfumery materials. When it comes to me and Creed, I’m not really a fan of the brand, their fragrances seem to0 mature, too dandy for me. But Acqua Originale also seems to be dedicated to some younger audience. Among 5 fragrances there is Vetiver Geranium. The composition starts with fresh, green and crispy aroma of geranium. It’s quite pungent and incredibly aromatic, what is additionally highlighted with the use of Granny Smith apple juiciness. After a while it develops a minty sensation (no mint in the notes). Light citrus touches of lemon and bergamot are a prelude to the rose note. It is dewy, watery and mostly it is green. Cedar and patchouli create the dry and woody smell – it is rather masculine and rugged. The drydown has a little bit of cinnamon and amber but none of these have a significant meaning for this perfume. The lasting power is 6 hours on average, sillage is rather small.
Make Perfume Not War is a limited edition fragrance (made in 1000 numbered pieces) from perfumer Gerald Ghislain and his Histoires de Parfums. $50 from each bottle sold will be donated to the charity organizations. The composition opens with a hard to describe citrus mix. There are orange, grapefruit, lemon and mandarin orange. They are all juicy and bright with a noticeable smell of citrus juice and white albedo part. Among the citrus notes there’s something that takes the lead. On my skin it’s pineapple accord which is the strongest – sweet, juicy and a little bit artificially smelling, maybe because of the accompanying vanilla and peach that make this note unnaturally milky and lactonic. After some time the floral notes start to dominate. Lilac is the most prominent and it smells quite right. There is also some freesia and cyclamen. The base of this perfume is clean and fresh, composed with white musk with just a tiny hint of tonka bean. I have to say I was disappointed with this perfume. To me, such a composition would be more suitable for a children’s shampoo rather than for a perfume. But it has a good cause, so I forgive them…