Shortly before my departure to Florence for Pitti Fragranze in September I was contacted by Santiago Burgas Bou, a fashion designer from Spain who also happens to be a creative director of his own perfume line. He wrote to me saying that he saw I was going to Florence and that he’d be there as well but not as an exhibitor but as a guest and that he’d like to show me his perfume collection. To me, every opportunity is a good opportunity to try something new, so we scheduled a meeting somewhere at the fair area. He told me a bit about his perfume and I was given a lovely set of seven 3ml sample vials to explore the compositions in-depth.
Funny thing about Santi Burgas as a brand is that Santiago finds his inspirations in nature, especially in life of insects. I bet his favorite insect is ant, otherwise his brand logo wouldn’t have a shape of ant with wings and a crown and he probably wouldn’t name his perfume line LOANT. The idea behind these perfumes is that they are pretty varied and are designed to be layered with each other. Since I don’t like the perfume layering concept I’m trying the scents separately. Maybe I will try some mixing in the end… Without further ado, let’s have a look at first half of the scents.
LOJAZZ, the perfume in a yellow-ish color opens with a prominent and lush aroma of orange blossom. It has a very pretty floral smell that instantly makes me think of summertime, beach and fun. It starts of pretty intensive but the intensity drops within 15 minutes, leaving a much more delicate fragrance on your skin. Shortly after jasmine sambac joins the composition, turning up the volume of the flowery facet of Lojazz. Initially there is also a small dose of indole to detect but it fades away shortly. More or less this perfume slowly becomes kind of clean floral scent, reminiscent of freshly washed bed-sheets. After some time the powdery smell of violet flower joins the composition, adding a tiny cosmetic twist to this perfume. Later on it turns a little bit citrusy, probably because of the orange blossom that is a carrier of a citrus reminiscent aroma. The final touch is magnolia that on me smells very fresh and dewy, developing into more watery thing after 2-3 hours. This perfume is soft, sweet and round. There are no surprises here, it’s an obvious floral composition. It’s pretty in its simplicity and it really begs to layer it with another Loant creation.
LOTREE, the perfume in a shade of green, sets off with an intensive woody aroma that most likely is a cedarwood. It carries the smell that I think words such as dry, rugged, rough would describe best. The vibe of this perfume is rather masculine at the begininng but after some time it becomes more versatile. After the cedar phase has passed, this fragrance starts to emit a pleasant aroma of sandalwood from Sri-Lanka. It’s not creamy but it definitely smooths the rough edges of Lotree. After some period of time you can experience an interesting dusty and powdery accord created with the use of oakmoss. After around 2 hours Lotree becomes more dense – it starts to smell a bit spicy (like nutmeg, but no spicy notes in description – mind you) and it even develops the smell of leather. And this leather is dark and heavy, like a coat. The balsamic vibe it introduces would be ideal to wear during a cold Autumn day or in early Winter. This is a woody and a bit oriental blend that is okay to wear alone, I’m going check what kind of layering options are available for it.
LOROSE in red is a very pretty, if not the prettiest of them all. The perfume starts right away with the intensive floral aroma of rose that has a very good saturation and intensity. This rose has an oily aroma in the background, so it kind of smells like a rose attar to me. Very beautiful, lush and velvety. In this composition perfumer used essences of two different roses, from Bulgaria and from India. After a while the perfume develops an incredibly delicious crispiness when geranium chord appears right next to the rose. It adds a nice vibrancy to the scent and intensifies the odour of roses. Geranium also adds something lush and green to this perfume. There’s also something fresh and spicy about this note but I also think I smell a little bit of cinnamon, but it’s not mentioned in the notes. Patchouli… Oh, there is a lot of patchouli in this perfume but it’s seamlessly blended with rose. It just adds a lot of depth and dimension to Lorose. It also provides a warm and spicy background that goes so well with the floral aroma of rose. This perfume is also very delicious, after a few hours it smells like a rose jam on my skin, so appetizing.
All three of the above have a moderate sillage and they last for around 6-8 hours. These fragrances come in 50ml bottles, each juice has a different color. The perfumer of the line is Blanca Dalmau.