Luxurious (or eco-luxe, as they like to call themselves) niche perfume line By Kilian, founded in 2007 (when did these 7 years pass?) by Killian Hennessy, the grandson of LVMH group founder has recently introduced a new fragrance collection consisting of 3 scents. After lines such as L’Oeuvre Noire, Arabian Nights, Asian Tales or In the Garden of Good and Evil here comes the time to welcome some new ideas in this brand portfolio, presented as Addictive State of Mind.
What was the idea behind this trio of fragrance compositions you might ask? The answer is right up there in the collection name, the addictions inspired Kilian and the perfumers to create this new line. The aim here was to make perfumes that would take control over your mind, giving you the impression like you’ve just taken a stimulant substance. You can’t get addicted to cigarettes, caffeine or hemp just by wearing these perfumes. But you can get addicted to these scents!
“COME ON BABY LIGHT MY FIRE”
Light my Fire is a perfume dedicated to the smoking addiction and tobacco is the main note in this blend. The perfume starts with a beautiful and shiny smell of honey. The note is dense and rich in sweetness that immediately activates my salivary glands, it’s so delicious and mouthwatering. After around 10-15 minutes the tobacco accord will appear on your skin, coming out of no-where. This note comes in seamlessly, sticky sweetness gradually transforms into something even richer, velvety and smooth. It instantly delivers the enormous pleasure to your olfactive-self.
Tobacco in this perfume has a golden color thanks to the honey note and it also seems to have a little bit of rum to it. The mild warm spiciness present in the background introduces the effect of safety and cosiness. According to the official notes list, Light my Fire contains cumin. I tried very hard to smell it, but I couldn’t – which is actually a good thing in my case. At some point this fragrance becomes a little bit more green and herbal thanks to the use of hay accord. In bring a nice and dry facet with a bit of aromatic vibrancy of coumarine to it. Really nice!
For the next couple of hours the notes entwine and come closer to each other, slowly turning into one structure that is hard to identify. Later there is some earthiness coming from vetiver and patchouli, there is also some vanilla to sweeten this already sweet composition. The scent was created by Sidonie Lancesseur. By Kilian Light my Fire is a fantastic perfume but there is one thing that bothers me when I smell it. In a really short time it becomes faint and you can smell it only from up close. In terms of longevity and sillage, it would probably lose to other similar tobacco perfumes, like Diptyque Volutes or Phaedon Tabac Rouge.
“BLACK AS NIGHT, SWEET AS SIN”
Intoxicated is a perfume created with a coffee addiction (or caffeine addiction, to be precise) in mind, therefore the coffee accord plays the main role in this fragrance. Surprisingly it’s not the coffee note that opens this perfume but first notes you will encounter upon application are the spicy ones. First of all there is warm and crunchy cardamom, having a little bit of a roasted aroma to it. Very shortly after it I start to smell this lovely cinnamon accord.
Its spiciness is tingling inside of my nose, making the perfume more lively and energetic. A hint of nutmeg is another spicy note used to create Intoxicated. This one brings more dry facet to the composition, also adding something a bit powdery to it. Coffee note appears at 20-30 minutes mark. I honestly dislike perfumes with coffee (had some trauma with a few in the past) but the note in By Kilian perfume is made in a different way that doesn’t bother me at all. Many other coffee fragrances have this dark and intense coffee note that smells like espresso. Meh!
Intoxicated serves to the table a coffee made of freshly ground beans. It’s also very mild. If this perfume was a cup to drink, it would be cappuccino with a lot of milk and a thick layer of milky foam on top. It would be served with a small piece of bitter chocolate. It’s not mentioned anywhere but I seem to smell bitter chocolate coming from this perfume. There is also a lot of caramelized sugar in this composition. It highlights the depth and smooth character of the coffee note but at the same time the sugar makes it more delicate and more approachable. Perfumer is Calice Becker.
“LOVE IS A SMOKE MADE WITH A FUME OF SIGHS”
Smoke for the Soul is the third creation in Addictive State of Mind series and it represents the addiction of smoking herb. As you can easily deduce this was the least favorite one for me. The composition begins with a dry and woody accord of birch which is quite rough and rugged. The opening is shortly followed by the green and herbal smell of mate tea and cannabis. And this phase literally smells like weed. Not sure I want to smell that way…
Things get even more complicated after some time when Smoke for the Soul develops more notes and becomes more complex. First of all there is tobacco. But not a beautiful tobacco like in Light my Fire. Here we have a dark tobacco, the kind that is rather chewed than smoked. It’s a bit filthy and musty. The smoky character of this note is combined with dusty and ashy feeling. It’s quite unusual concoction, definitely not an easy to wear one. This perfume will polarize the audience, you will love it, or you will hate it.
At some point the smoky vibe in Smoke for the Soul becomes more challenging when camphorous and mentholated molecules of eucalyptus join the composition. The perfume hasn’t changed into something medicinal but it definitely has a specific aroma right now. It’s musty, dark, a little bit unplesant. In the drydown it becomes a tad more aromatic when you smell some warm cardamom note combined with a gentle woodiness of cashmere wood. This scent might make you feel high. The perfumer who mastered this composition is Pierre Negrin.
Light my Fire, Intoxicated and Smoke for the Soul from by Kilian appear on the market in bottles that are a signature of the brand. Covered with a black lacquer from the inside, having a shiny metallic name plate at the front. These 50ml flacons come packaged in an elegant black-silver case with a metallic cover decorated with some striped pattern. The cap is also metallic instead of black. This collection is geared more towards masculine audience for a change. Are you tempted?