Niche perfume brand of Technique Indiscrete is not a widely known one, though it exists on the market for a while. Established in 2008 by Libertin Louison, who comes from Belgium, and who gained his perfumery knowledge in Paris, where he studied at Cinquieme Sens. At the moment his brand offers a variety of fragrances in different concentrations, as well as perfumed candles and teas. My explorations of this line started with falling in love with their Safran Nobile. Today I have more samples of the collection to try and would like to tell you more about 2 ideal for the current weather.
The first composition that is not exactly my personal kind of perfume but at the same time smells quite appealing to me is Santa Subita. This fragrance was inspired by a visit to Orthodox Church St. Catherine in Brussels. The scent opens with a cold and brisk scent of bergamot and lemon, mostly their aromatic, citrus rinds are noticeable. This impression subsides after 5-10 minutes and that’s when patchouli accord jumps in. You know I’m not a patchouli lover but it smells interesting here.
I would compare the smell of patchouli in Technique Indiscrete Santa Subita to the smell of dry autumn foliage in the park, combined with a little bit of dust and earth. There’s definitely something dusty and powdery to this note, as well as something vegetal and a bit damp. After a while the perfume develops a beautiful, resinous density. There is benzoin in this scent, bringing a lovely balsamic touch that is not too heavy, not too light. It’s a little bit sticky and the addition of vanilla make it smell yummy like a caramel fudge. This slightly gourmand, sweet and balmy sensation lasts for a while, only to become even better. After 1 hour I started to smell sandalwood. Woody and substantial, even a little bit heady it first, it begins to deliver these amazing creamy tones that are smooth, enveloping, cuddly and really sensual.
This bit erotic combination of smooth sandalwood and sweetened benzoin lasts on the skin for a good couple of hours. After that time Santa Subita becomes a tad more woody in a dry and bit rough way thanks to the presence of cedar wood note. It stands there as a contrast to sandalwood but I really liked the change. It’s not bad at all, especially that caramelized feeling is still pretty much there. There’s also some tree moss in the drydown, as well as some musk. The latter one is balanced between dirty, sexy and clean (not soapy!) This perfume smells amazing when it’s cold outside. Once you catch a whiff of it once in a while, it will smell warm and safe but not boring.
Another perfume from Libertin Louison with a saintly element in the name is Sainte Extase. The website of Technique Indiscrete describes it as scent of holiness floating through the air and onirique pleasure among the other words. The begininng of this perfume consists of light and airy green notes which slightly remind me of freshly cut grass, covered with drops of fresh water. Then there are some wildflowers that bring slightly floral and more powdery elements to the composition.
After a while some smoky and balsamic elements of cistus labdanum appear in Sainte Extase, making this scent more mysterious and enchanting. Soon after you can smell this incredibly delicious, warm and sweet spiciness of cloves. It has a very nice intensity and its pungency is just right. This note warms up the composition by at least 10*C. The combination of spicy notes (personal note: I think there’s some cinnamon there too) has a Winter vibe to it and the fragrance itself makes me think of Christmas gingerbread cookies. And honestly – at some point Sainte Extase starts to smell like Un Crime Exotique, a limited (and now also discontinued) perfume from Parfumerie Generale. So if you are familiar with that one but didn’t manage to get it before it disappeared, trying Sainte Extase is a must.
The drydown of this fragrance by Libertin Louison is created around tree moss that gives a dusted and powdery facet. There are also many woody notes emanating from the composition of Sainte Extase after few hours. Texas cedar has a dry smell here while vetiver has more rooty and earthy character. There is also the note of precious woods, whatever is in there: sandalwood, cashmere wood? It smells good. What I like is the constant spiciness of cloves, lasting until the perfume fades.
Both Santa Subita and Sainte Extase are warm, sensual and embracing perfumes that will make you feel warmer in the Winter chill. These two compositions were created in eau de parfum concentration and they are available in 50ml bottles at a price of €75 each. The bottle has a simple design with black label. Which one sounds more appealing to you? Or maybe you’d gladly take both home?