As you’ve probably managed to notice, I’m the kind of person who once sets a goal to achieve, they will do almost everything to realize it, no matter how fast or how slow it will be done. Before I went to Pitti Fragranze in September I felt like I needed to know who I can meet there and what new perfumes will be officially introduced there for the first time. Among the new launches I have found one that really piqued my interest. After a very successful Aqua Sextius she did for Jul et Mad, perfumer Cecile Zarokian had another creation ready for Laboratorio Olfattivo.
Patchouliful, for that’s the name of this new fragrance really got me interested in smelling it not only because Cecile mastered this composition (and I’m her fan) but also because this perfume contains my favorite ingredient – iris, as well as one of my least favorite ingredients – patchouli. I was curious to learn what will be my overall impression of such mix. The composition begins with a few-seconds-long glimpse of bergamot which then disappears and doesn’t come back. It is immediately followed by the wave of warmth and spiciness created with the use of cinnamon and cloves. Both of these notes smell rather dry and a bit more earth and they lack the usual sweet undertone one can find attached to them.
After w few minutes patchouli accord joins the composition and in the matter of next couple of minutes it becomes crystal clear what note is the leader in Patchouliful. Patchouli fills the entire composition and my skin starts to overflow with the aroma of patchouli. But it’s not done in a usual way. It doesn’t smell too damp or rotten. It’s definitely bright and I wouldn’t say that it’s clean, but there is something about the style of this fragrance that makes it stand out.
I find this patchouli accord to be elegant, stylish and refined. To me there is something woody about it. As the time flies the composition of the new Laboratorio Olfattivo fragrance becomes more dark and smoky because of the labdanum note. It adds more density and brings a good amount of balsamic elements to the blend. It feels really resinous and to my nose this perfume starts to develop some animalic qualities as well. Possibly because of the cedar wood that often gives the odor that is a bit animalic. Luckily the impression is not overwhelming and subsides shortly.
At 2 hours mark is the moment when the whole composition of Patchouliful changes character on my skin and becomes much more gentle, lyrical and sophisticated. Now I start to smell the powdery facets of iris entwined with somewhat dusty molecules of ever-existing patchouli. For some period of time it even becomes more floral and creamy thanks to the frangipani flowers. In my opinion woody tones become a little bit stronger at this point, though I’m reminded more of sandalwood rather than of cedarwood. During next 60 minutes the woody notes fade and become more transparent.
The drydown of Laboratorio Olfattivo Patchouliful still smells of earthy patchouli and I detect tiny bits of spicy cinnamon and clove as well. But the dominating part of this development stage is musk. This note is presented in more animalic way as it has some dirty and sweaty qualities. On the other hand the balance of the notes is so well-measured that I feel no offense in this phase. The drydown like that feels like a natural result of the earlier notes. It’s like a conclusion to the whole thing about patchouli and all that. I’m quite satisfied with this fragrance, though I would be even happier if there was some more iris…
Cecile Zarokian, who was probably one of the busiest perfumers this year once again proved her master skills by creating Patchouliful for Laboratorio Olfattivo. This is the kind of perfume that fits in to different standards and expectations. Personally it was one of the few patchouli dominated compositions that I wore this year and enjoyed the time I spent with the scent. The fragrance is eau de parfum, concentrated at 15%. It is available in 100ml bottles, same design as earlier scents. I had a very tiny sample of this fragrance. Two smudges lasted around 6 hours on my wrist.
[note] pictures from the press and icon.panorama.it