Since my childhood days I always enjoyed citrus. Not only were tangerines and oranges one of my favorite fruit but I also liked their fragrance. Each time I was peeling off the tangerine I used to inhale the aromatic peel, I was also placing it near tealights so that this beautiful fragrance can effuse in the room. It was no surprise for me that since I discovered the existence of niche perfumery couple of years ago, Atelier Cologne was one of the brands I wanted to explore first.
Creators of this maison de parfum, Sylvie Ganter and Christophe Cervasel know their citrus well and they know exactly how to cooperate with a perfumer to obtain an exquisite Cologne Absolue, a fragrance that is based on traditional cologne but is much more concentrated and contains additional accord that give those compositions richness and complexity. With the begininng of January 2015 they announced a launch of Pomelo Paradis, featuring pink pomelo note.
This new member of Collection Originale opens with a very bright citrus accord. For the initial 15 minutes it smells very tangy, very tart and zesty. At first whiff it’s also slightly pungent, but it becomes milder in no time. Pomelo Paradis begins with this juicy grapefruit note that smells very realistic. There are some slightly sour and bitter elements that after a while transform into more sweet kind of citrus when tangerine joins the composition. Tangerine in this fragrance smells soft, ripe and round. It will make you crave for a real fruit, it’s so mouth-watering and close to nature.
When I focus a little more on the composition of Pomelo Paradis smelling it from up close I quickly realize that this new cologne absolue takes from heritage or earlier Atelier Cologne scents. What I mean is that when I inhale it in peace I detect the familiar smell of citrus pulp known from Orange Sanguine or the slightly powdery, tad dry and aromatic albedo (white inner rind part of citrus) similar to the one I experienced in Cedrat Enivrant. All these elements somehow appear in the new creation but they’re not obvious and are kept in the background, letting Pomelo Paradis be a new being.
Most stories told by each of Atelier Cologne‘s cologne absolue tell a story that refers to love and Pomelo Paradis is no exception in terms of background tale. And it goes like this:
“Was he a fool to drive all night just for a chance to see her? Perhaps it was adrenaline and the lack of sleep, but as he pictured moments they had been together, the word destiny stuck in his mind. The coral sunrise burned bright and he drove faster. There was no choice but to see her again.”
After around 45 minutes the citrus tones of pink pomelo become milder and milder, slowly turning into a quiet yet happy whisper. To me it still has the bitter-sweet flavor with a noticeable aromatic qualities. At some point Atelier Cologne Pomelo Paradis becomes more floral. This cologne absolue contains orange blossom essence which adds radiance, vibrancy and youthful style. On the other hand there is a bit of Bulgarian rose that introduces more grown-up vibe to the blend.
At the later point of development the composition reveals the aromatic side which was build up around the mint accord. This particular note adds a touch of green to Pomelo Paradis, making it even more refreshing and invigorating. In combination with the citrus notes (which get faint gradually) it kind of reminds me of mojito cocktails. At 2 hours mark the minty vibe becomes stronger and starts to dominate the composition for a while. Its lovely green aroma is chilly and energetic, putting a smile on my face. As the time flies the note of mint blends together with other notes. At the same time the fragrance becomes surprisingly different comparing to how it smelled for the first 4 hours.
What happens with Pomelo Paradis is that it becomes significantly woody on my skin. The composition mentions vetiver as one of the notes, but it doesn’t smell earthy or rooty to me but woody, and more in a dry sandalwood kind of way. I don’t mind such change, at least something is still going on with this fragrance. There is also some iris which adds a powdery facet to the drydown and amber which makes it feel warmer and more sensual. The verdict? Pomelo Paradis is a fantastic perfume and I can already see myself wearing it often in the summertime. To me it’s a clean and fresh composition with at least 2 twists (mint and vetiver), it’s very easy to wear and enjoy.
Pomelo Paradis by Atelier Cologne is a new fragrance and will be introduced as of end of January 2015. Samples of it should be available soon. In my case the perfume lasted for around 6-8 hours and stayed rather close to the skin, as most cologne-based blends do. This cologne absolue is concentrated at 15%. The developer of Pomelo Paradis is perfumer Ralf Schwieger with assistance of Sylvie Ganter and Christophe Cervasel. It will arrive on the market in 30, 100 and 200ml bottles, as well as shower gel, body lotion and a candle. This is a happy perfume for happy people!