I hope you don’t think I’m getting boring when once in a while I repeat that I love Italy. Why? I think there are more reasons behind it. Apart from mild and warm Meditarranean climat and real dolce vita represented by people who live here Italy holds a special place in my head and in my heart. For me it was the first European country I got to visit on my own (I mean without parents) when they agreed for me to go for a summer camp to Italy. It was one of my best summers.
Now I feel blessed that I have a chance to revisit this beautiful country. Imagine my happiness when I found out some time ago that Atelier Cologne will launch a totally new collection inspired by Italy. Sylvie Ganter and Christophe Cervasel traveled to Positano in search of beautiful raw materials that could serve as inspiration for new fragrances. I think their trip was successful.
As a result of Atelier Cologne founders explorations in Italy, Collection Azur was created and it consists of four fragrances. First fragrance from this collection that I’d like to present to you is Mandarine Glaciale. It is a very happy and lively fragrance, rich in different sensations. In the opening essences of mandarin, lemon and bergamot are hidden. Great thing about this fragrance is that despite all three belong to citrus family, you can smell them almost separately. At first there is aromatic and zesty bergamot shot that provides a burst of freshness as soon as the juice touches your skin. It’s like an instant endorphins injection.
Bergamot aroma is followed within 5 minutes by the beautiful scent of lemon. It’s very bright and prominent, bringing to the opening phase the qualities of bitter and sweet taste at the same time. There’s also something pleasantly acidic, citric to this note, like a slice of lemon added to the glass of cold sparkling water. It does make a difference. Mandarin appears on my skin as last of citrusy tones that compose the opening phase of Mandarine Glaciale. Its juicy and sweet aroma with powder-ish vibe (albedo?) makes for a mouth-watering combination.
A story that goes along with Mandarine Glaciale from Atelier Cologne is a one about a female painter who takes a special painting order from a mysterious man, it goes like this:
His telegrams came repeatedly and she persisted in ignoring them. He knew what she was capable of, but she refused to work his way. This time, despite herself, she gave in. The ultimate request: she must deliver his commissioned painting in person. The private plane would arrive in the morning. For the moment, she rode her horse freely along the river.”
After a lovely, citrusy opening Mandarine Glaciale becomes a little bit more crispy thanks to the accord of petitgrain that adds a bit more green and crunchy feeling that very nice harmonizes with the scent of citrus blend. Ginger root that to me smells like an amplified lemon aroma introduced a lovely zesty touch that has something fizzy, bubbly and spicy in as fresh manner.
Composition of this new Atelier Cologne creations lists jasmine accord in heart notes but the fact is that I didn’t get a distinguished whiff of this white flower. It is a fact that I caught a quite floral whisper along ginger and petitgrain but to me it was more like neroli… Maybe the creators used some special fraction of jasmine or some different species that has more clean and transparent aroma. Few hours later Mandarine Glaciale keeps its character but now it adds some other elements. There is a light vetiver accord that just lost a battle with more present citrus notes, so you can just smell it briefly and without rooty or earthy elements. I get more earthiness from oakmoss and I just love it how a chypre element was introduced here.
The circle of Mandarine Glaciale development closes with white amber base note. It’s soft, warm and comforting. Optimistic? For sure. Cuddly? Maybe a little bit. To me it provides a nice contrast in this perfume’s composition. This cologne absolue is a transition from cooler to warmer notes. Despite the fact there is a word glaciale in a name of this perfume, I don’t find it particularly glacial, icy. Sure it has some cooler notes but they are not ice-cold like eg. Neroli Portofino from Tom Ford.
Mandarine Glaciale is a new cologne absolue in Atelier Cologne portfolio. It has been created as 15% pure perfume, composed by perfumer Jerome Epinette together with Sylvie Ganter and Christophe Cervasel. This lovely juice is housed in signature Atelier Cologne bottle which for Collection Azur has been given a lovely blue color. The fragrance is available in 100ml bottle with orange leather label on it or in 30ml petit flacon version. If you decide to buy a little one, your flacon will come together with orange leather case, isn’t this a lovely touch? Off to explore the remaining 3.