Before my perfume trips I normally tend to do some sort of research on what to expect when I’m there. This inludes checking the venue area, the neighborhood of a place where I was supposed to stay and of course printing a list of all exhibitors participating in Esxence or Pitti Fragranze. Among the brands joining the fair I also create a mini lists of brands that are must-visits to me. For 2015 edition of Esxence Atelier des Ors was in my agenda. On the first day as I was walking down the hall I found their stand and it was free so I took it as the best opportunity to discover the line.
First glance at the fragrances offered under a seahorse logo might suggest an orientation towards Russia and Middle Eastern market. And that would be quite accurate. Atelier des Ors bottles, that have a sleek oval shape fit really well in hand. The glass has those small ridges carved into the surface and they are shaped like the beams of light. On the picture the effect is not visible but when you look at the bottle with your eyes, you notice that ridges scatter the light making the bottle somehow glow. Outer packaging, a brown box with golden arabesque-like print is very elegant too.
Moving on to the perfume, Rose Omeyyade is one out of five fragrances that mark a debut of Atelier des Ors on the market. I have to be honest with you that this was not my favorite from be brand but a very close runner-up. It just felt more suitable to write about this one first. Rose Omeyyade is a very oriental rose and you can smell it from the very begininng. The composition opens with a Damasc rose. Its rich and opulent aroma instantly transports you to the gardens of Middle East. Velvety petals colored in bloody scarlet shades feel very luxurious on the skin & at the same time the perfume feels really saturated, like you applied a scented oil, not a perfume.
After 10-15 minutes Rose Omeyyade begins to evolve and it does it really slowly. After that time I started to notice some gentle tingling that was gradually growing stronger until it reached a point when the piquancy became quite obvious, revealing an accord of pink pepper. Unlike black pepper which can be metallic, pink pepper feels softer but it’s still spicy and vibrant. Not to mention that it composes with dark rose really well. Just a little bit more into fragrance development and this Atelier des Ors creation reaches the softest stage. When raspberry joins the composition and you can smell this sweet and fruity sensation as you breathe the perfume in and out. It’s very tender.
But as I mentioned, this is where Rose Omeyyade is the weakest and after some time it regains the intensity of the opening stage. After around 60 minutes is when rose meets with patchouli and they decide to become a couple and go together from now on. I’m happy that this is an earthy patchouli with some woody elements. It adds so much depth and dimension to the composition. For a short time it even reminds me of Voleur de Roses from L’Artisan Parfumeur. Then an interesting caramelized facet appears. Initially I thought its a caramel note or maybe benzoin but after looking into structure of this perfume it turned out to be brown sugar.
It’s funny because most perfumes with a sugar (brown or white) accord have that specific vibe that instantly makes you think of crystal sugar. Here it doesn’t smell like crystal but more like it’s melted and covering the oriental rose and earthy patchouli notes of Rose Omeyyade. Real fun with this fragrance starts for me after 4 hours of wearing it. That is when drydown notes slowly start to come up and make the composition even more interesting. First of all there is some gaiac wood to add more substance to the perfume. But then… Then some real magic happens.
Atelier des Ors Rose Omeyyade develops a fantastic note of leather. It smells very realistic and is enhanced by woody and resinous elements. True elegance of this perfume hides exactly here, in this ideally balanced cuir note. It’s not overpowering and not too weak. It simply co-exists next to the magnificent scarlet rose which is still the main star of this fragrance. Leather in this perfume has a black color and it has a tanner workshop vibe. A bit raw on one side, incredibly soft on the other side. Its smell? Somewhere in between a stylish bag & shiny shoes.
Then there is just as nice sandalwood note appearing at the end of 6th hour. It’s solid wood but its been made smoother with creamy aspects that carry some sweetness of vanilla, though vanilla hasn’t been mentioned in the notes. Since Atelier des Ors line is veering towards Middle East a use of some oud was inevitable. But rose has just been treated with a drop or two, which makes it feel darker and more velvety. The finale of Rose Omeyyade is made of amber that is sensual and slightly powdery. It’s probably the most bright note here.
All in all it turned out that I had a good hunch about Atelier des Ors line. I had high expectations from the moment I learned about this brand and I have to say that they have been fully satisfied during my visit to the brand stand at Esxence. All 5 fragrances are really well made and with lots of care for small details too. The presentation is exquisite but what matters most is that the fragrances last for over 8 hours and have a really nice sillage. Rose Omeyyade is available as eau de parfum in 100 ml bottle that hides some gold flakes within. Perfumer who worked on the line is Marie Salamagne.