Summer has finally arrived and it immediately kicked off with temperatures as high as 34-37*C. When it’s so hot outside I normally either reach for a very light cologne fragrance which I know that will be gone really shortly but there are also hot days when I go unscented (is that a sin?) This time I was waiting for a heat wave to try one different fragrance. The moment I tested it I knew it was bound to be reviewed during a very hot day. So here it is, a scorching take on new Jul et Mad Nea.
This particular fragrance is a part of new collection from this French maison de parfum. Line is called “Les White” and finds inspiration in ancient civilizations. Nea is the one that was created having Golden Age of Byzantine Empire in mind. Perfume opens with a tropical aroma of date. It has a warm, welcoming feeling that oscillates between being fruity and slightly nutty. I find something crunchy and delightful about this note. After a few minutes the blend sweetens with a tasty aroma of caramel. I have to say that I often find gourmand accords to be very offensive – here the caramel is very muted and gentle. It has the sensuality of Prada Candy, it’s just toned down and less playful.
After around 45 minutes Nea becomes a very gentle, silk veil consisting of combined aromas of dates and caramel. At this point its sweetness becomes slightly stronger but never too strong. There is also a powdery, musky vibe that wraps everything together and creates a lovely package that stimulates the senses. At some point even element of freshness sneaks into the composition. It has a form of pomegranate. The moment you notice a splash of juicy happiness triggers an instant smile on my face. Palm leaf introduces an element of milky verdancy (think very light fig milk accord) while dried plum brings forth a surprising effect of fruity powderness.
The longer you have Jul et Mad Nea on your skin the more interesting it becomes and the more you like it. As the time flies the composition evolves from being fruity, sweet and rich in colors, into something slightly more substantial. Here spicy freshness of black pepper entwine with sensual and embracing scent of ambroxan. Vanilla makes all the edges smooth and enhances the qualities of spicy-woody combination. Benzoin on the other hand provides a lovely balsamic touch.
Fraction of patchouli blends really well with sweet and fruity tones of Nea. It doesn’t give any earthy sensation but serves the transparent role of highlighting the mayor attributes of the composition. Artemisia is another element of light spiciness and jasmine in the end gives a nice floral contrast that somehow draws a line between what is fruity and what is floral. I remember from history lessons that in Byzantine Empire it was all about shine, bling and gold. Nea matches that image not in terms of being gold but in terms of having an incredibly rich and complex feeling despite the fact that it doesn’t contain as many notes as other fragrances in fruity-floral-oriental family.
By trying Nea by Jul et Mad once again we’re dealing with a talent of Luca Maffei who carefully blended all of the aroma materials and created a modern interpretation of a well-known fragrance gender. But Nea is so much better than any other scent in this group due to incredibly good lasting power of 12 hours. Sillage is also really good, especially when I wore it on such a hot day. Nea is available in 50ml flacons in a luxury coffret format (white lacquered box, flacon edged in gold, nomad spray), in simplified version – Love Basics (white carton box, matte glass bottle finish, no nomad spray) and also as a 5ml Love Dose miniature.