Hearing the news about the new fragrance from Mandy Aftel always sends a gentle shiver of excitement down my spine. Mandy is a true artist, an artisan as some say. She has her very unique style and sense of creating, that makes her perfumes rather specific, sometimes hard to understand but they are memorable. Always. Couple of weeks ago Mandy wrote me a short email saying that she’ll be releasing a new solid named Bergamoss and offered to send me a sample.
A chypre? From Mandy? All legs and hands on-board, I just had to try that thing. Within 10 days I received a package with a mini sample of a solid fragrance which you can see on the photo-collage below. Now, I don’t have any experience with solid fragrances, I have no idea if they should be reviewed the same way as regular fragrances you can spray on your skin. Still I’d like to share with you a small bit of impressions that Aftelier Bergamoss provided me with. So I’m taking a small portion of green-ish waxy substance, place it on my wrist then rub left and right wrist against each other to distribute the solid evenly. Then I sniff, sniff, sniff…
Decrypting the name is simple, it’s bergamot + oakmoss. And that’s how Bergamoss starts. It opens with zesty and aromatic bergamot tones that give my nose a little tingle. Then almost immediately I can detect oakmoss. It has a rough, woody smell with elements of dry shrubs and dust. It’s a very classic and old-school take on chypre. Nutmeg adds a hint of dry, earthy spiciness to it. After a while the structure of this solid perfume becomes milder and bit rounder thanks to additional orange accord. As the time flies the blend stays rather linear.
Any further changes in Bergamoss happen very slowly. After a few hours I can smell fruity and lactonic peach molecules and there is this beautiful and rich smell of coumarin that brings to mind the smell of hay in the summer sun. It’s fougere-ous, slightly herbal and very much to my liking. Classic chypres always will have a special spot in my heart. As I noticed, at some point this Aftelier creation develops a leathery vibe which is kind of raunchy. It’s because there is some civet. Mandy created a great fragrance again, as solid it does stay close to the skin and lasts for around 6 hours. Everyone who misses oakmoss in current perfumery will highly appreciate this launch.