Dancing flames, Prada Infusion d’Oeillet

Many people say that thinking about yourself is a proof of being vain. I agree with them if such behaviour is observed commonly. But I believe that there is nothing vain if you think about yourself once in a while, allow yourself to do something you normally can’t do (because you lack time, or courage) and indulge yourself in a bit of pleasure. It’s ok! For me there are days when I feel good and when I feel bad about myself, it happens to every one of us. As my personal mood-lifter I like to feel elegant, to wear something more formal. At times like that I reach for a fragrance by Prada – because to me this fashion house is a quintessence of elegance, style and good class.

A few months ago it was announced that new collection of fragrances – Les Infusions de Prada, will be released. After a huge success of Infusion d’Iris which became a modern classic of perfumery the Infusion line was expected to expand. The line consists of 3 fragrances that were known earlier: Infusion d’Iris (reorchestrated), Infusion de Fleur d’Oranger (was a limited edition), Infusion de Vetiver (previously discontinued) and 3 new scents: Infusion d’Iris Cedre (more woody), Infusion d’Amande and Infusion d’Oeillet. I was much excited about all of them but the one attracting most of my attention was Prada Infusion d’Oeillet. Just the look at its notes made me feel like this is going to be something I would like. I first tried it during my voyage to Paris. I didn’t like it. I loved it! Immediately upon my return to Poland I started looking for it and luck was by my side.

Among carnation-themed fragrances that I know I find Infusion d’Oeillet to be really special and somewhat different. Prelude to this fragrance is built of beautifully sounding chords of spices. The blend has a warm, sensual and inviting feeling. It takes some willpower to name the spices that create this charming opening. In my opinion I smell such things as clove, cinnamon, a bit of nutmeg and maybe some pink pepper too. The start is very gentle but after a few minutes when the perfume starts to emanate from your skin all the spices get more power, still smelling incredibly stylish. The quality of the ingredients makes you almost feel the pleasant tingle on top of your tongue.

Those spicy tones play alone for around 20 minutes. After that time the carnation begins to lift up and present itself in full magnificence. To me Prada Infusion d’Oeillet is a carnation perfume in 4 acts. First act is experienced thanks to the supportive role of spices. When carnation accord appears it smells incredibly warm, almost fiery but it never feels overdone. It feels like a tornado of crimson flowers and ragged petals combined with spicy warmth. A tornado that has a power but doesn’t destroy anything. This form lasts on me for over 1 hour. So enchanting.

Carnation, act two is a bit different from what I experienced earlier. Spicy facet becomes weaker with every minute, it starts to become neutral in the composition of Infusion d’Oeillet. Now you can smell the flower itself. It’s not of fire anymore, it’s not burning. It somehow seems like its crimson shade became lighter by a few tones, becoming pink on each petal edge. This floral phase is elegant, sophisticated and it doesn’t lose character. It’s still carnation but in a different dress and its background is also different. Almost non-spicy anymore I can detect warm and embracing floral tones that at some moments become really similar to rose. This evolution is really interesting, especially that right now I find some similarities between Prada Infusion d’Oeillet and Aedes de Venustas Oeillet Bengale which is another great perfume. They both have a rosy effect.

In act 3 the carnation flower of new Prada becomes enveloped by balsams and resins. First thing that happens after around 4 hours is a flower appearing in this specific environment surrounded by patchouli. Not a patchouli lover like me could get disappointed now… but no! Wait! This actually smells pretty good. Patchouli in Infusion d’Oeillet doesn’t smell like a rotten roots and dirty earth. It does smell earthy and slightly vegetal but kind of in a cleaner way. Another note that reveals its presence a little bit later is styrax. This fragrant resin (one of my favourite ones) brings forth a delicious aroma which combines elements of resinous and sweet. It’s a bit like benzoin but more substantial and less caramelized. Carnation in conditions like these smells incredibly good. There is some serious depth and dimension given to this perfume now. It’s a perfect balance of accords.

Drydown comes to my skin after around 6 hours during which Prada Infusion d’Oeillet has been changing and surprising me with various facets. In the drydown its the Australian sandalwood that gradually starts to dominate over anything else, including carnation. It’s a nice stage as the perfume gains some more substantivity and structure. This is not a creamy sandalwood nor is it a dry one. It’s somewhere between those two ends of the spectrum. At first sight it seems smooth but it has some splinters too. After it fully awakens on your skin I noticed an effect that really charmed me. Note of sandalwood has melted with patchouli, styrax and the oeillet remainings to form something that mimics leather, or more precisely – suede leather. There is this fuzzy impression to it.

Prada Infusion d’Oeillet is a perfume that doesn’t lack personality. The creators wanted new Les Infusions de Prada to represent contrast between traditionalism and modernity and I think they nailed it perfectly. This perfume is a compromise between tradition – here represented by carnation flower and modernity which in this case can be seen by the use of assisting notes and overall lighter impression of the scent. The idea for Prada Infusion series was never to create screaming fragrances but rather to offer something more soft, supple and stylish. Something very personal.

Miuccia Prada and perfumer Daniela Roche-Adrier (who developed all fragrances for Prada, by the way) worked on this collection together to create a fragrance range that would truly represent style and mentality of the house of Prada and that would offer some new and slightly different olfactive thrills to the perfume lovers. Prada Infusion d’Oeillet feels very me, giving me the impression of safety and embrace. As if the perfume tried to say “I care for you.” Also since I tried this fragrance one vision is haunting me – this perfume would be an ideal thing for Katniss Everdeen (The Hunger Games) in her flame dress. The bottle is cut exactly like earlier scents in Infusion series. The bottle is slightly pink at the bottom and gradually becomes transparent in up direction. The cap is wrapped with structured paper of the same color. This eau de parfum has an intimate sillage and lasting power of +10 hours. I’m so happy to have this scent in my collection.

[note] photos used in this review are my own, all rights reserved

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13 thoughts on “Dancing flames, Prada Infusion d’Oeillet

  1. I recently purchased a miniature collection of Prada’s Les Infusions and this one was my favourite by far.

  2. hajusuuri says:

    We ARE scent twins. I smelled the range on paper at KaDeWe and Oeillet was the one I liked the most and got a sample of it. Now I have to actually wear it and judging by your experience, I too will not only like it, but LOVE it! Be well, sweetie.

  3. Holly says:

    Fantastic review, Lucas! This sounds like a real winner, and I’m really looking forward to trying it.

  4. jillie says:

    This sounds rather beautiful. And with its warm spiciness and resins suitable for the cool, melancholy months ahead. Great description ….. and very tempting …..

  5. rickyrebarco says:

    Wonderful review, Lucas. I am really looking forward to trying this one. I liked the Aedes Oieullet Bengale a lot and I feel sure I will like the Prada as well. Infusion d’Iris is an all time favorite of mine. Also, thanks so much for sharing your trip with us. It sounded so nice. Maybe someday I can go to a Pitti Fragranze show. I’d be so excited I might jump right out of my skin :-))

  6. floragal says:

    Wonderful, nuanced review.
    Excited to try this!

  7. […] until the very end. In 2015 only two perfumes joined my wardrobe at my own desire. Those are Prada Infusion d’Oeillet which is my number 1 this year for being a multifaceted spicy, floral and oriental composition at […]

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